Mopar Muscle Association UK

Posted: **Sun Mar 05, 06 6:26 pm**

has anyone got any input

on bf goodrich drag radials? I don`t really want to use slicks,but I m getting conflicting reports,some say they are too soft & I`ll scrub them off in a few miles,others say they`ll last a couple of years,I don`t do a lot of mileage the furthest is to santa pod once a year

the cost is about the same,initially,apart from carrying two wheels etc.

Posted: **Sun Mar 05, 06 6:50 pm**

My guess is they will be completly worn out after a few thousand miles including the occasional burnout.

You don't actually define "don`t do a lot of mileage". To some people that could mean 10 miles. to others it could mean 10,000.

I would guess you are going to have to get a new set every couple of years if not every year.

Found this review on the 'net;

The Drag Radial's popularity has resulted in some questions about the tire's high speed capabilities because, unlike other Ultra High Performance street radials, its speed capability is not indicated on the sidewall by a speed symbol in its size or service description. While the Comp T/A Drag Radial has many of the internal construction features usually found in high speed radial tires, the feature that prevents it from being speed rated in the "normal" ways is its unique high-hysteresis tread compound. This compound has extreme energy-absorption characteristics that help the Drag Radial readily conform to the track surface to help launch the car and take it to victory... an eighth- or quarter-mile at a time. This same tread compound, when subjected to continuous operation at very high speeds, could possibly overheat and blister like super-sticky "qualifying tires" that have been used in professional oval track or road racing competition. Thus, even if the Comp T/A Drag Radial is available in a vehicle's ideal size for use in activities other than drag racing, it should not be used in competition where the car and tire will be exposed to extreme cornering loads or sustained high speeds.

It is also important to remember that the Drag Radial operates most efficiently on the strip at cold inflation pressures of between 15psi and 20psi (in no case should below 12psi be used). And after the racing is done for the day, it is essential that Drag Radials be reinflated to normal highway operating pressures in order to safely bring the driver and trophy back home. Running any tire at relatively low inflation pressure for a given load reduces the tire's speed capability by causing it to stretch more and operate at a high deflection (more radial bulge). The Drag Radial is built to withstand brief "bursts" of high speed while inflated at low pressure (such as would be experienced on a quick car in the quarter-mile), but no tire can be expected to survive for a long time at high speed while operating at high deflection.

The Comp T/A Drag Radial has been one of the most widely publicized and most successful drag radials ever used in competition. In addition to clinching the NOPI Drag Racing Association (NDRA) championship in 2003, BFGoodrich's Comp T/A Drag Radial set a new world record for the fastest time on a DOT-approved tire. Paul Efantis drove his Toyota Supra to a new world record in the NDRA BFGoodrich Pro Street Class by ripping off an 8.25 second quarter mile at 170.8 m.p.h. With the world record, Efantis beat his own previous mark set on the same tire.

And this;

Hope youre not expecting this tire to last you too many freeway trips. Lets get real, its a DRAG Radial. Leave the pressure up over 40, cruise the freeway to the strip, dump the pressure to 15 or a little lower, light em up and HOOK. So far this has been a great tire for me, even on the street under dry conditions they hook pretty hard, even at 40psi. Obviously in wet conditions, youll be everywhere, but they are relatively quiet and comfort doesnt seem to be a problem. Treadwear is obviously going to be bad with a soft compound tire like this, but hey, its a DRAG Radial, remember? Basically if youre looking for a good street legal drag tire, based on my experiences, Id say this is a good way to go... especially via TireRack.com, because the price and service is beyond excellent.

So it sounds like they are the mutts nuts on the strip. But don't drive fast esp. on curved roads and never in the wet.

Posted: **Sun Mar 05, 06 11:36 pm**

wow thanks dave

roads with no bends & no rain , not made for this country then

it`s just that someone I know uses these tyres & ok, soft compound drag tyres are`nt going to last long I know & this report proves it ,but what I did`nt expect was the safety aspect,my low miles are...... 4 miles a month to leeds cruise, a couple of miles to wakefield cruise( once a month) a once a month trip to york dragstrip (approx 60 miles round trip) and mopar nats ......... approx 250 miles , at 3000 rpm ..........60 mph? so I could live with the wear aspect but safety?

Posted: **Mon Mar 06, 06 9:03 am**

The speed problems mentioned there are when the tyre is at low pressure. I am sure it will be fine when inflated to 35psi so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

I wouldn't let the car stand still on them for long periods though. They are very soft so will flat spot easily.

In the wet they will be very poor. Yes they have some tread pattern but they will be as effective in the rain as balding cheap re-moulds. They are designed for the drag strip which means they are just like drag slicks and will be a very poor tyre in any other conditions.

Posted: **Mon Mar 06, 06 11:19 am**

I think you are better off with a set of slicks, Ok the initial outlay is more but with only occasional use they will last a couple of years and can be bought used fairly cheap, a much better solution in the long run if you ask me!

Posted: **Mon Mar 06, 06 10:59 pm**

the only thing is for my car the size of slick I could fit is`nt really popular so I`d have to buy new, I`d have to carry the two wheels etc plus,I just feel that I want the car to run as fast .as is

Posted: **Tue Mar 07, 06 11:50 am**

Ditto to above, they don't last very long (10K?), and are a no-no in the wet. In addition I'm not sure they are actually road legal over here??

Should I invest in a set, I'd go for the Nittos. They reportedly last much longer yet still have very good strip traction (and I think handle better).

Or try a set of sticky street non-drag radials

Posted: **Tue Mar 07, 06 7:21 pm**

My Hoosier street/drags lasted 2 seasons going to the track and back (and racing obviously with customary showtime burnouts

)3 times a year but I didn't really do many burnouts on the street until they were knackered then done a nice smokey one in the Taxi rank outside Westcliff station which killed 'em (and dug two holes in the road

)

Posted: **Wed Mar 08, 06 12:15 am**

lots of input there

what are nittos?

and what normal performance tyres are the stickyist? Ive got a big boot terry but when we go racing it`s full of camping gear!

Posted: **Wed Mar 08, 06 6:40 pm**

`66 coronet wrote:lots of input there what are nittos?

Nitto Extreme drag radials
http://www.nittotire.com/tires_555r.asp

They also do a version with stiff sidewalls (i.e. non-drag) also on their website

Posted: **Wed Mar 08, 06 6:48 pm**

Until the last time I always went to every race with one slick in the boot and one slick on the rear seat. My camping gear was packed into the boot and rear seat space too. And the boot on a challenger is a fraction of the size of a b-body boot and I have a much longer way to travel than you.

The last time we raced Mrs Woodhead took the slicks on the roof of her Monaco station wagon which was easier I must admit.

Posted: **Wed Mar 08, 06 7:01 pm**

Hmm, don't think I'd want to get caught out in the rain or on a greasy road on those Nitto's either! 66', Mickey Thompson S/S are a proper street tyre that will get pretty good grip at the track if your suspension is set up right. What is your set up at the moment? tyre size? sure grip? gear ratio? rear shocks? pinion snubber? You have to look at more than just the tyres to get good traction.

Posted: **Wed Mar 08, 06 9:08 pm**

my tyre size at the mo is 255 /60/15 I have a pinion snubber,3.9 gears with a suregrip.......gerry and air shocks

Posted: **Thu Mar 09, 06 5:38 pm**

That sounds like a pretty good combo with the exception of the air shocks. Air shocks are way too stiff and if you are using them to raise the back of the car the leaf springs will have no "stored energy" to plant the tyres. instead of changing the tyres I would spend the money on getting the springs retempered and rearched, fit spring clamps to the front section and get a pair of cheapo Comp. Engineering 50/50 long drag shocks. This will get you some "rise" in the rear suspension and you'll stand a decent chance of hooking the thing up.