Mopar Muscle Association UK

Halfway through removing "Rubiks Headers". What a nightmare...
Anyway - I *think* I can get just enough movement on them if I get this arm removed (see pic) (plus I need it off for the other side anyway).

Anyway - is there an easy way to remove this arm ? I have tried coaxing, kind words, profanity, brute force and WD40(the super weapon).

Is there a trick to this or is it 'hit it with a mallet' time ? (laughably it was held on with one nut and one castle nut. Why is a mystery - it is absolutely rock solid with no nuts on at all !

Realize I am posting lots of questions, but I'm (trying to) doing lots of work on her at the mo !

Thanks for patience.

You do realise you have to jack one side of the engine up at a time to get the headers out yes?

Been told I might have to - thought this one would come to be honest - its not a mile off (or doesnt feel it)...

Guess tommorrows job is engine jacking then...

Steep learning curve this mopar stuff. So far today I have removed a header, been covered in antifreeze , engine oil, removed all my fresh oil (changed 2 weeks ago - now just effectively a flush) and spent 4 hours crawling around under the thing and still the header just floats in space ! ! !

I think it's beer time.

I just replaced the idler arm and the pitman arm on my Charger. I used a pickle fork, a hammer and lots and lots of banging.

To be honest unless your lucky I dont think you can seperate them without damaging the ball joints.

It would be easier to unblot the idler arm at the chassis end then maybe everything will move about enough to get around the headers ?

morgan it might be easier to remove the idler arm from the chasis as oposed to breaking the joints , if you do this you might be able to move it all (including turning the steering) to get enough clearence to get both headers out , unless you have 1 pipe that runs under the steering. if this is the case you will need a ball joint seperator to break the joints (without the correct tools this is a verry difficult job).!!!!!! just looked at your pic , you are trying to take them out the top i hope, they wont go out under the car.

The way to remove headers is to unbolt the engine mounts and jack up the (hope I have this the right way around) passenger side of the engine as far as it will go. You also need the front of the car as high as you can get it.

When you have that header off let the engine back down and jack up the drivers side to do that one. As far as it will go remember. You may also have to remove the starter motor.

Putting headers back in is the opposite way around.

I hope I have those the right way around because if it should be the other side first it is more difficult and sometimes impossable.

If you have a little small block though it should be a lot easier than on a 440.

If you dont get enough clearance by unbolting the idler arm at the chassis try unbolting the pitman arm from the steering box as well. As long as you have some sort of puller thats pretty easy. Remember what position your steering was in though.

Oh and headers always come out and go in from the bottom but you need plenty of height on the car. Read any header instructions and you will see that is true.

Moving the steering to one side also helps. I have never had to remove any steering on a mopar to get headers in.

Unless you have the kind of header that goes under the steering link of course. But steer clear of those.

Looking at your photos you have not got enough height anyway.

Ahh, dave and me disagree on the directon of inserton (oo er missis) maybe thats why i hate headers, ive never been in the fortunate position to extract them under the car, ive always taken them out from the top (my jack isnt high enough to get them out under the car ) morgan, i just checked your profile and if this is on the charger with a smallblock the headers should fall out (try doin it on an A body )

Are you using a balljoint splitter? Hedman Headers on a Small Block; the drivers side has the steering link through it.

Kev - you are dead right. The drivers side has the steering link going straight through the middle - so the balljoints have to come out one way or another when I do that side.
Just been to dads and I now have said balljoint splitter - so couple with engine raising and the like I should have a chance.

Really want car to be operational for the Nats....

What a game this is. No wonder they just had a 'box with a pipe in it' from the factory....

I use the same method Powerail uses. I've just replaced the idler arm and to crack the joint I used a crowbar to apply some leverage and hit the steering link with a large ball-pene hammer. Leave the nuts on loose while you do it to protect the thread if you Bananarama!.

Dave wrote:Unless you have the kind of header that goes under the steering link of course. But steer clear of those.

That is what I meant. In that case you don't have any choice as Kev said.

Trev. Very tall ramps and a very big jack with wood for extra lift.