Mopar Muscle Association UK

How tight do I do the transmission sump bolts? I don't want to over tighten them like someone has in the past. I'm off to buy a tap and dye set tomorrow.

Just nip it up, you dont need to go mad with it.

Cheers Del. Thought as much. I have done the ones that do up rather than just go round a little tighter than you would a valve cover

Everything has a torque setting. It is in the manual.

Yeah.... I aint got one of those

my manual sais 150in-lbs. i would use a rubber gasket as opposed to the cork one normaly used. if you can get a PUROLATOR filter service kit part number 233 it has a rubber gasket in it.
why are you going to buy a tap and die set, that wont repair stripped threads. the only way is to helicoil them, not as easy as just running a tap down the hole. also most sets will contain loads of taps you wont ever use, you would be better off buying better quality taps in the size you need. if you want to borrow any taps i have all the ones you will ever need, including all the tools to helicoil any damaged threads.

Cool post, TrevD!

I find that tightening it up 'till it strips, and then backing it off a quarter of a turn so it locks up is a method of sorts.................

Pete wrote:I find that tightening it up 'till it strips, and then backing it off a quarter of a turn so it locks up is a method of sorts.................

Yeah Ithink thats what was done the last time it was removed. One of the bolts you can just push in and out of its hole.

I was just going to tap the hole out to a bigger thread and use a chunkier bolt. Is this not a good idea then cos I cant get on with helicoil kits for some reason, I normally end up paying someone else to do that.

I was just going to tap the hole out to a bigger thread and use a chunkier bolt. Is this not a good idea then cos I cant get on with helicoil kits for some reason, I normally end up paying someone else to do that.[/quote]
As my old man used to say to me "you are in control of the job lad,it's not in control of you"anythings possible.

Adam68 wrote:I "you are in control of the job lad,it's not in control of you"

I like that quote.

is the box still in the car? if you are going for laarger bolts the next size is a 5/16 (UNC) if you want to stay imperial or M8 in metric, either of these will require the hole to be drilled out prior to tapping the new thread, also you would be better off using allen bolts if either of these is used as the socket needed to do up the bolts will foul on the sump pan.and dont forget to open up the holes in the gasket carefully as trying to force a larger bolt through the hole could damage it.

Yes the box is in the car. I have got all but 1 boltto tighten, so before I do anything, once the new braided cooler hoses arrive I will fill the box up and see if it leaks. If it doesn't I'll leave it.

Took me a long time to learn how to get a sump pan to seal.
It was a cork one which i was to learn hardens over time if unused and can spontaneously start to seep. Obvious solution is to nip the bolts up a touch, when that hasn't worked nip em up again. When that fails, removing the pan, cleaning, coating the gasket with goop and tightening it all up again will also fail cos by now the lip of the pan resembles the ripples on a beach. Time for some very patient fettling with a teeny hammer and a new gasket. Oh, and a read of the manual for the correct torque

Fingers wrote:Yes the box is in the car. I have got all but 1 boltto tighten, so before I do anything, once the new braided cooler hoses arrive I will fill the box up and see if it leaks. If it doesn't I'll leave it.

Can you get a long nut and bolt in there?