On a 68 coronet, wher ideally hiw far down the side should I cut the 1/4 off, arches and bottoms rotten.
I did have some pics ages ago but if anyone could help that would be great.
Also Trunk floor fitting to.
Quarter Panel fitting. Any Pictures
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MilesnMiles
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This article may be useful
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tech ... to_08.html
lots of pics.
I read an article on this issue the other night. I'm no body man, but apparentlydon't cut anything until you have checked the replacement panel over the top of the existing panel to see if it will align ok.
I read an article where some guy had cut out his old panel only to find that the new one was .5" out of line!
There was also a lot of reference to spot welding and leading as seam welding can cause panel distortion.
just what i read.
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tech ... to_08.html
lots of pics.
I read an article on this issue the other night. I'm no body man, but apparentlydon't cut anything until you have checked the replacement panel over the top of the existing panel to see if it will align ok.
I read an article where some guy had cut out his old panel only to find that the new one was .5" out of line!
There was also a lot of reference to spot welding and leading as seam welding can cause panel distortion.
just what i read.
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Anonymous
Did the right hand side like this. Large overlap at the top, which was spot welded together. Looks like more work, but to be honest was easier in the end. Done on the advice of someone who should know. I stand to be corrected by someone more knowledgeable.
You can see the join in the second picture along the top of the wing.
You can see the join in the second picture along the top of the wing.
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Anonymous
Cheers guys,
Hey roger I had lost those photos you had sent to me and could not find you on the board the other day when I was looking.
The Coronet I now have I want to do properly, new 1/4s trunk floor etc.
just need to work out wher to cut it.
Also Roger, where could I get some of those chassis stands that rotate??
Hey roger I had lost those photos you had sent to me and could not find you on the board the other day when I was looking.
The Coronet I now have I want to do properly, new 1/4s trunk floor etc.
just need to work out wher to cut it.
Also Roger, where could I get some of those chassis stands that rotate??
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Anonymous
Quarter skins
Hi Moparfolk,
Golden rule told to me by US restorer of twenty years!
"SAVE AS MUCH ORIGINAL METAL AS POSSIBLE"
Obvious you might think, but most people buy a full quarter skin and WHACK it on, complete. This is only necessary if the the whole quarter is toast. Keep the repair panels to a minimum, or you run the risk of the Taiwanese recycled washing machine panels going BAD.
On some of the restored cars I have owned and worked on, I have seen the repair/patch panels rusting through again in double quick time.
Most American made panels now come galvanised and 1.25mm thick.
Taiwanese metal tends to be around 0.9mm to 1.0mm and low grade.
Any overlaps can be a water/condensation trap, so butt welding is better, just extremely difficult! Best of Luck Mogwai!!!!!!!!!!!
p.s.Simon, I personally thought your first method was better.
Golden rule told to me by US restorer of twenty years!
"SAVE AS MUCH ORIGINAL METAL AS POSSIBLE"
Obvious you might think, but most people buy a full quarter skin and WHACK it on, complete. This is only necessary if the the whole quarter is toast. Keep the repair panels to a minimum, or you run the risk of the Taiwanese recycled washing machine panels going BAD.
On some of the restored cars I have owned and worked on, I have seen the repair/patch panels rusting through again in double quick time.
Most American made panels now come galvanised and 1.25mm thick.
Taiwanese metal tends to be around 0.9mm to 1.0mm and low grade.
Any overlaps can be a water/condensation trap, so butt welding is better, just extremely difficult! Best of Luck Mogwai!!!!!!!!!!!
p.s.Simon, I personally thought your first method was better.
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Anonymous
Re: Quarter skins
Hey baccaruda, did you mean my first pic? Part of the decision to change the whole 1/4 the other side was that it had been heavily sideswiped, but also with the first method, you can see the join from the inside, with the later it is much less obvious. If i was doing it again, i would butt weld with tig and no filler rod, then it would be easy to get flat. Wasn't good enough at it at the time, probably still not but id give it a go!baccaruda wrote:Hi Moparfolk,
Golden rule told to me by US restorer of twenty years!
"SAVE AS MUCH ORIGINAL METAL AS POSSIBLE"
Obvious you might think, but most people buy a full quarter skin and WHACK it on, complete. This is only necessary if the the whole quarter is toast. Keep the repair panels to a minimum, or you run the risk of the Taiwanese recycled washing machine panels going BAD.
On some of the restored cars I have owned and worked on, I have seen the repair/patch panels rusting through again in double quick time.
Most American made panels now come galvanised and 1.25mm thick.
Taiwanese metal tends to be around 0.9mm to 1.0mm and low grade.
Any overlaps can be a water/condensation trap, so butt welding is better, just extremely difficult! Best of Luck Mogwai!!!!!!!!!!!
p.s.Simon, I personally thought your first method was better.
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Quarter skins
Hi Mogwai,
The Coronet quarter is a fairly difficult due to the body lines being high and low on the sides. Most quarters can be fitted in "Eighths" as in below the centreline of the body. No such luch with the Coronet! You will have to go up, to just below the top swage.
All quarter skin joins should be finished on the inside, with as much care as the outside, with a heavy coat of underseal as per factory. Even mid quarter joins can be hidden, as the factory coating is very thick here.
It is slighty easier to fit trunk floors before the Skin as you have more room to work. The hardest part being the trunk floor extension lining up with the wheelhouse and the lower quarter, before any welding begins.
Hi Simon, the overlap on the top of the quarter is fairly traditional in the US, but I prefer the join to be just below the outer lip. All done and said, its wonderful to see Restos done to these high standards here in the UK.
Best of luck Mogwai and Simon!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The Coronet quarter is a fairly difficult due to the body lines being high and low on the sides. Most quarters can be fitted in "Eighths" as in below the centreline of the body. No such luch with the Coronet! You will have to go up, to just below the top swage.
All quarter skin joins should be finished on the inside, with as much care as the outside, with a heavy coat of underseal as per factory. Even mid quarter joins can be hidden, as the factory coating is very thick here.
It is slighty easier to fit trunk floors before the Skin as you have more room to work. The hardest part being the trunk floor extension lining up with the wheelhouse and the lower quarter, before any welding begins.
Hi Simon, the overlap on the top of the quarter is fairly traditional in the US, but I prefer the join to be just below the outer lip. All done and said, its wonderful to see Restos done to these high standards here in the UK.
Best of luck Mogwai and Simon!!!!!!!!!!!!!