Alternator

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Dec 01, 04 1:22 pm

Guys,
just wondering, which regulator type we`re talking about here. Is it old mechanical type or electronic type?
I understand the old regulator type can burn out if the keys are left on in the ignition!!

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Dec 01, 04 2:04 pm

You are right of course.

I keep forgetting people are still using the old mechanical one on their cars. They are RUBBISH and you should change to a 70s style solid state regulator and dual field wire alternator if you have not already got one.

I am sure myself or someone posted a diagram of how to change one for the other on here somewhere. They always drift away from ideal charging voltage these mechanical things.

Still don't see how it would damage the alt. The battery and wiring yes but not the alt?

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Wed Dec 01, 04 2:40 pm

Yo, Neil! You can also burn your coil out if you leave the ignition on.

Derek · Post by **Derek** » Wed Dec 01, 04 3:13 pm

Sorry guys, If only i was to listen, I have spoken to the auto spark again
he said the rgulator should be ok, the alternater has blown two diodes, one in each bank, as they are in two banks of three he said best to change all of them and go up from 15amp diodes to 25amp diodes, that will make it more robust.
I aint got a clue what he is on about so i hope he has.
The regulator is the old mechanical type, should i get the electronic type and how do i wire it up, the alternator is a dual field wire alternator

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Dec 01, 04 4:12 pm

You should have a 60 or 78amp dual field alternator? Even the smaller one should be more than big enough for your application but if in doubt go for the bigger.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/tech/wiring/dualfield.shtml has a diagram to show you how to wire it all up with the more modern regulator.

Regulating the output of the alt remotely as in the Mopar system is much better as the regulator 'sees' the actual voltage in the wiring harness.

Reference: http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Derek · Post by **Derek** » Wed Dec 01, 04 4:59 pm

Cheers Dave, I'll give it a go at the weekend if not before

Derek · Post by **Derek** » Sun Dec 05, 04 4:54 pm

Well, I have fitted my rebuilt alternator and the mechanical regulator , all seems to be charging ok when driving even with lights, heater blower and wipers on but when stationary, on idle, with foot on brake pedal, the gauge shows a dicharge. Does this sound right, or should i put on a twin field alternator and electronic regulator. I have put relays on the head lights and dash lights to stop them going dim on idle, should i put them on brake lights and heater blower or is it just a waste of time, cheers guys.

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Sun Dec 05, 04 10:37 pm

Most alternator's will not charge at idle but once off idle normally between 1000-1300 rpm will charge ok

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Dec 06, 04 3:41 am

go over to the MSD site and have a mooch at the new alternator they are selling, a mate just got one of the first ones, very trick indeedy