suspension geometry? will I get to the Nats?....

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suspension geometry? will I get to the Nats?....

Post by Anonymous »

Hi folks, those of you who I have seen in the last 6 months know I've been off the scene renovating me new house. still not in it, but am trying to get the Charger ready for the Nats.

Anyhow, she failed her MOT a few weeks ago because of knackered bottom front suspension ball joints on both sides, and totally shagged bushes on the upper control arm on the offside - you could move the whole lot forward and back about half an inch - really bad.

These have now been replaced, and the suspension geometry is all out of kilter-the previous owner had adjusted it to take into account of the knackered bushes, so it needs to be reset.
I have it booked in for alignment next week, but the bloke has asked me for the correct figures which I know I have seen in my manual.....
Sadly all my manuals and Mopar books are in a storage crate with everything else I own in a warehouse in Gateshead... :cry:

Any info on the correct caster/camber and toe in/out settings for a 68 Charger (318 base model) would be greatfully received, and any scanned pages from a shop manual would be great too. Really trying hard to get this sorted for the Nats this year. CHeers folks :)
Nick G
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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

Set it to MAX POSITIVE caster first of all. This is dead easy. You just turn the adjusters so one is all the way in and the other all the way out.

Then adjust the camber until you have 3/4 (+ or - 1/4) degrees NEGATIVE (in at the top).

As you adjust the Camber you will loose some of the caster.

Then set the toe to 3/32" IN.
Anonymous

Post by Anonymous »

Thanks Dave,
Is this something I should leave to the bloke with the lasers to get the measurements right, or can I try this myself?

If so, where would I start?
I'm not going to BS you saying I know how to do it - cos you know I ain't got a clue. Without a manual I'm even worse...ha ha!

Glad to hear you are doing ok, mate.. :thumbright:
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Post by Pete »

Exactly as Dave says - do a "Spinal Tap" - everything set to "11".
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.

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Post by andyrob »

I will probably have my tracking gauge & camber gauge with me at the nats if this is any help, or will you have scrubbed your tyres off before you get there if its that bad ?
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Post by Rebel »

Nick, you can borrow my manual if you want it, I'll be at the metrocentre tomorrow night in the car - usual place.

text me if you're going to be able to make it and I'll take the manual with me
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Post by Anonymous »

Hi Nick , nice to see you back. :thumbright:
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Post by mopar_mark »

Rebel wrote:Nick, I'll be at the metrocentre tomorrow night in the car - usual place
Sounds like one of them Doggin site adverts :D :D
Anonymous

Post by Anonymous »

mopar_mark wrote:
Rebel wrote:Nick, I'll be at the metrocentre tomorrow night in the car - usual place
Sounds like one of them Doggin site adverts :D :D
If you don't know the Gateshead Metrocentre, then you don't know how close to the truth you are!! :lol:
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Post by Dave-R »

Nick. At the VERY least you need a camber gauge. Also toe is not that easy to set as it is that small an amount (3/32 = less than 2.5mm) but any tyre place can do that.
Or claim they can do that. :roll:
Anonymous

Post by Anonymous »

Dave, I guess I'll leave it to the guy with the alignment rig.
Andy kindly offered the use of his gear at the Nats, but seeing as it is so bad it wants to hop a foot sideways everytime I go over a manhole cover, and screeches everytime I turn the wheel, I'm concerned about driving it ten miles to Hexham!

One last thing on this..
Now I have Nige's Dart/Coronet/Charger shop manual, it has the figures in it for Dart and Coronet. I'm assuming the caster and suspension height figures for the Charger are the same as the Coronet?
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Post by Dave-R »

limeycharger wrote:One last thing on this..
Now I have Nige's Dart/Coronet/Charger shop manual, it has the figures in it for Dart and Coronet. I'm assuming the caster and suspension height figures for the Charger are the same as the Coronet?
Completely ignor those figures. They are total crap.

Do it the way I said. Set your front height so it looks right. Make sure the rear is level as well as the front after adjusting because the rear is effected by the front.

For example. You tighten the left front torsion bar and the front goes up a quarter inch that side. If you then check the rear you might find that the right rear has actually dropped a bit.

So check the height all around.
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Post by andyrob »

nick bring it down & ill check your camber & toe, cant promise Ill have have time to fix it ( unless all the bolt are free )but at least you'll know how bad wrong it is
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Post by Anonymous »

andyrob wrote:nick bring it down & ill check your camber & toe, cant promise Ill have have time to fix it ( unless all the bolt are free )but at least you'll know how bad wrong it is
Thanks for the offer mate, but she is too bad to drive too far, will just get it on the alignment jig on Wednesday and give the man Dave's figures and advice form this thread.
Thanks all, will let you know on Wednesday pm if its sorted......or not.. :roll:
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Post by Dave-R »

andyrob wrote:nick bring it down & ill check your camber & toe, cant promise Ill have have time to fix it ( unless all the bolt are free )but at least you'll know how bad wrong it is
In the far far future when i actually get the Challenger running I wouldn't mind double checking my settings on your rig Andy if you wouldn't mind?

My garage floor slopes a degree or two from one side to the other so although I will level the car as best i can I wouldn't mind checking it after to be sure. I find toe is the difficult bit to get exactly right. Although a mm or two either way does not matter too much i would like to get it spot on if I can.

BTW Nick. I will be setting my camber at 1 degree negative as I find it helps hard cornering with the 440 up front. You might get away with a fraction less with the 318 which will also give you a touch more caster.
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