That sounds to me like one tyre is loosing grip.
Any leaks?
When I have ran up a track that was not ideal in the traction dept I have found the car squirms from side to side a little. I have never had the back end just try to go one way unless one tyre was loosing traction and the other wasn't. Like when pulling out to overtake a lorry in the wet up a hill.
Was one tyre maybe unloading from the track due to the car twisting on the suspension? That NO2 stuff dumps a lot of torque into the engine.
Substitute for cubes.
Moderator: Moderators
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Anonymous
Going sideways
I think you guys are on to it, the rear of the car always went to the right when looking from behind.
Has he set his Caltracks up Right?
Has he set his Caltracks up Right?
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Anonymous
IMHO the slicks are way to low at 10psi on a car that heavy, i would have thought 12 would be a bit nearer, never played with a progressive controller, but would have thought you'd be better going back to the base settings and getting it running straight before you start upping the power go steady at it and it will come easier, dont just dive straight in at the deep end,
How heavy are you burning out? just lightly smoking the tyres or sitting still for a while? do you stop the burn out still sat in the water? could you be spaying water up into the arches and it dripping out over the tyres mid track? i have seen it happen before,
How heavy are you burning out? just lightly smoking the tyres or sitting still for a while? do you stop the burn out still sat in the water? could you be spaying water up into the arches and it dripping out over the tyres mid track? i have seen it happen before,
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Anonymous
Gonna be standing by the gate @ the HRDs legs akimbo , you're all welcome to kick me in the kernackers.
Messin around with the rear end a while ago , forgot to preload the Caltracs.
Been scratchin me head all night , now sorted , ready for the HRDs.
Thanks for all the input , always down to human error.
£300 down the pan , £80 pod , £150 fuel , £80 gas , £20 breakie , least i gotta chance to test the nitrous install.
Messin around with the rear end a while ago , forgot to preload the Caltracs.
Been scratchin me head all night , now sorted , ready for the HRDs.
Thanks for all the input , always down to human error.
£300 down the pan , £80 pod , £150 fuel , £80 gas , £20 breakie , least i gotta chance to test the nitrous install.
Last edited by Anonymous on Sun Sep 02, 07 6:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Anonymous
MMMMMMMMMMMMMM
RTFM
Ok guys now we sorted that out how am I gona get the green snotty into the 11's
Ok guys now we sorted that out how am I gona get the green snotty into the 11's
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Anonymous
Re: MMMMMMMMMMMMMM
Bob , when you fit the caltracs , remember to PRELOAD em , otherwise you'll be in the 14s.Knightcharger wrote:RTFM
Ok guys now we sorted that out how am I gona get the green snotty into the 11's
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Anonymous
Did'nt like the switch on wide open throttle , as ALL the gas has to come in on launch , using a 250 shot so did'nt want that much torque straight off the line. (drive train breakage)gasser wrote:just been given an adjustable controller, why did you go that route rather just a straight kit? keep going all makes great reading and the succes will be much sweeter after some set backs
Good thing with the controller is you can ramp it in on any setting , ie: 100 hp on launch @ 3000 rpm , with 250 @ 4 to 5K rpm. Also uses a fuel pressure switch , so if you run out of fuel it cuts the nitrous. No need to change jetting either.
Kev , you can ave first kick.
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
TTP
Kev succinct and to the point, man were going to miss you.
Nick, Great picks, your going to miss the black bueaty.
Just to firm up Adams point there are basically two main ways to operate the cheater plate type system.
System 1
A full throttle micro switch or WOT so that when the throttle is wide open the nos and fuel solenoids are triggered. The prob with this is that you have to retard the timing ie fire the bitch earlier on the compression stroke or the engine will pink/ detonate with the sudden increase in compression so you have to nail in the timing at 2 deg per 50 hp of Nos plus 2 degs for safety.
so on a 250 shot that will be er 9 plus 2 er say 12 degrees.
Now when you line up and launch basically the engine is out of tune which cocks up your 0 to 60.
The ying and yang effect.
So to over come this there are several timing devices available which you can set so that say after 3 secs the timing is auto retarded and signals the Nos on the WOT.
As you can see things get a bit complicated and thats just the half of it.
System 2.
Basically this is rev operated such that you have 4 dials. These allow you to determine the amount of auto retard, the lower rev limit at which time the retard is automatically dialled in and the Nos is started.
Now this is the clever bit it pulses the solenoids such that the nos and gas is progressively introduced as the revs rise reducing the chances of wheel spin (Adam) when the power is suddenly introduced as in system 1.
The other dial allows you to set the upper limit when the Nos is all in.
The final dial allows you to set the rev limit for the engine such that it loses a spark to alternative plugs then more and more til Nada. this is called lost spark rev limiting.
Now basically everyone has heard about how Nos blows up your lump and how dangerous it is, and seen the films where the guy hits a red button and his eyes bulge and his cheeks start flapping which is just an urban myth. Oh I cant say it starts with B GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.
If the timing is correct and the Nitrous and petrol are introduced in the correct proportions and the eengine is designed to handle the increase in energy generated ie forged pistons ect the normal ICE will run quite happily on this combination just consider the alky meth burners generating 2000 hp so we are not exactly going to the moon with a 250 hp shot.
hope this helps doughnut and I apologise to those members with more experience who are now laughing there socks off.
At the end of the day its a bit of interesting fun which is what our hobby should be all about
Nick, Great picks, your going to miss the black bueaty.
Just to firm up Adams point there are basically two main ways to operate the cheater plate type system.
System 1
A full throttle micro switch or WOT so that when the throttle is wide open the nos and fuel solenoids are triggered. The prob with this is that you have to retard the timing ie fire the bitch earlier on the compression stroke or the engine will pink/ detonate with the sudden increase in compression so you have to nail in the timing at 2 deg per 50 hp of Nos plus 2 degs for safety.
so on a 250 shot that will be er 9 plus 2 er say 12 degrees.
Now when you line up and launch basically the engine is out of tune which cocks up your 0 to 60.
The ying and yang effect.
So to over come this there are several timing devices available which you can set so that say after 3 secs the timing is auto retarded and signals the Nos on the WOT.
As you can see things get a bit complicated and thats just the half of it.
System 2.
Basically this is rev operated such that you have 4 dials. These allow you to determine the amount of auto retard, the lower rev limit at which time the retard is automatically dialled in and the Nos is started.
Now this is the clever bit it pulses the solenoids such that the nos and gas is progressively introduced as the revs rise reducing the chances of wheel spin (Adam) when the power is suddenly introduced as in system 1.
The other dial allows you to set the upper limit when the Nos is all in.
The final dial allows you to set the rev limit for the engine such that it loses a spark to alternative plugs then more and more til Nada. this is called lost spark rev limiting.
Now basically everyone has heard about how Nos blows up your lump and how dangerous it is, and seen the films where the guy hits a red button and his eyes bulge and his cheeks start flapping which is just an urban myth. Oh I cant say it starts with B GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.
If the timing is correct and the Nitrous and petrol are introduced in the correct proportions and the eengine is designed to handle the increase in energy generated ie forged pistons ect the normal ICE will run quite happily on this combination just consider the alky meth burners generating 2000 hp so we are not exactly going to the moon with a 250 hp shot.
hope this helps doughnut and I apologise to those members with more experience who are now laughing there socks off.
At the end of the day its a bit of interesting fun which is what our hobby should be all about