Headlamp switch overheating

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Oct 09, 07 9:47 pm

had the same problem with my charger, so i put a relay in both dipped and main beam.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Oct 10, 07 8:33 am

put the relays up front and splice into the existing wiring loom, takes the load off the switch and you`ll get more voltage to the headlamps

Put a fuse in the line as well, one for each relay.

How I did it;
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... t=headlamp

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Oct 10, 07 8:53 am

i just cut into the headlamp wires (they run alongside the battery on my charger), used the switch side to switch the relay on and off,and went straight from the + battery to the relay and out to the side that goes to the headlights, i done both dipped and main beam, it brightened them both up.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed Oct 10, 07 9:55 am

if you have standard headlamp bulbs this shouldn't happen

the switch needs to come out and have the contacts on the outside cleaned up (these swicthes don't come apart easy so spray in with contact cleaner don't try to pull to bits)

but the bit that gets really hot is the variable resistor coil for the interrior lights and dash board light dimining function

if its getting well hot then you either have a short at the dashboard lights or in a wire going to an interiror(dome or footwell) or maybe in the boot or under the hood light (depends how luxo your car is. Base model- dome light or 3 piece suite on wheels-loads of interior lights)

or you are running a a too high wattage bulb in one of them.
easy to spot
the plastic covers in ya dash lights will have melted and burnt
or there will be adefinite discoloration in your dome light lens

if you need a new switch
pull the switch out
press the rivet like button on the metal side
pull out the switch knob
carefully remove the collar
and trim pieces

the switch is available new from Mopar
Jeep used them until the 90s
and it was the standard switch for all aussie Holden and Chrysler cars from about 1966 to 1976

i.e you should have NO trouble finding one

pull its knob

and put back your mounting and trim pieces
bolt down the collar
put ya old knob in

and mount it

Erhum

Dave

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Oct 10, 07 1:16 pm

hi Nick,
as a direct replacement/upgrade of original old parts, I just bought the Mopar kit (Distributor, ECU, loom and ballast resistor) plus a new coil, as I was already ordering parts from Mancinis anyway. Since fitting, I`ve had no problems and all works fine for my smallblock.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mope.html

Having never tried the alternatives, I too wonder if there would be any noticable improvement of other systems on a regular driving motor. I know folks who have the other systems including the FBO type that Wil(Neil) sells and they work fine. Have you had a look on his website?
http://www.usaimports.co.uk/FBO_Pages/i ... trical.htm

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Oct 10, 07 6:31 pm

All these mods are great ideas , taking the load of the crappy mopar wireing , but i think we should all renew the existing looms first , then carry out the upgrades , the old wireing & switches should be sorted first , then the upgrades , no point band aiding it waiting for it to kick you up the .................. cos it will.

mad machs · Post by **mad machs** » Wed Oct 10, 07 7:25 pm

Saved this useful diagram link a while ago-

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/headlight-simple.htm

HTH

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Oct 11, 07 8:26 am

just open the loom and break into the supply wires from the switch, one for main and one for dipped lights and make the connections to the relay as per the diagram. The nearer the relays are to the lights, the more voltage they will receive (ie; up front in the engine bay).
Definitely sounds like your switch needs cleaning or replacing and take care ithe wiring is in poor condition. Good luck, here`s another link as a guide.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... elays.html

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Oct 14, 07 11:35 am

I've just done the relay conversion.

I put the relays (Maplins are cheap for relays) next to the rad so they are close to the h/lights. I cut into the original wiring loom next to the battery so that I didn't have to disturb it behind the dash.

If you check the 2nd diagram on the link that Neil has posted, you should see the numbers for the terminals on your relays (they should be on there).
85 and 86 is for the wiring from the switch (one of them to earth), and 87 and 30 for the wiring from the battery to the headlights. I don't think it matters which one goes to which terminal but someone shoot me if I'm wrong

I also put an inline fuse on each supply wire as close to the battery as I could.

I consider electricity as one of the dark arts, but even I found this easy to do.