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BUDGIE · Post by **BUDGIE** » Fri Oct 26, 07 8:25 pm

Bullit proof but not Cannonball proof

Callis RIP

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Fri Oct 26, 07 9:05 pm

that,s one car that wont see daylite for a few yrs

BUDGIE · Post by **BUDGIE** » Fri Oct 26, 07 9:10 pm

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Oct 26, 07 9:40 pm

bit of instant metal, be good as new.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Oct 26, 07 9:46 pm

Superglue

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Oct 26, 07 9:48 pm

Seriously what has caused that ?? looks like a brand new crank ?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Oct 26, 07 10:06 pm

Callis RIP

should that be Callies, if so why has it broke?

if it is a Callies,
then which one? certainly not a magnum XL, if it is callies then it looks like an 8 bolt magnum to me
HP numbers?
rods?
pistons?
block?
main studs? and were they cycled
what damper?
what comp?
what timing?
what cam?

few things going to do that to a Callies

1. cheap Bananarama! chinese damper
2. detonation
3. cap bounce

probably a lot more instances, that crank has flexed too far however you look at it

either
twist... down to detonation on 3 and 4 checked by sparklies on the plugs
bend.. 2 and 3 mains bouncing... checked by dark patches on the main register

or just pushing a magnum too far, next time buy an XL or ally caps and rods

if it aint a Callies then I don't give a Bananarama! and apologies for the above

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Oct 26, 07 10:15 pm

oh... forgot if a callies magnum XL breaks with ally caps and rods then break out the CC and buy a Bryant at 3k

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Oct 26, 07 10:22 pm

Yeah got that

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Fri Oct 26, 07 11:33 pm

940 hp,
mopar perf block 4 bolt-------cycled ??? whats that
proper damper, forget the make will check but all best parts thats why it hurts,
proper rods forget the make
same with the pistons
13-5-1 comp
no detonation, proper fuel
revved mtr to 7900 at the big end,
broke at 6,600 in 2nd
35 deg timing
to be honest just wanna forget the whole deal,
it got me down more than i had realized for about a month, so onward and upward, took it the tip today to stop remindin me,

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 27, 07 8:46 am

look at it this way

that crank needed hanging on the wall as thats some acheivement for what is Callies No2 crank

shame you binned it

at that level anyone would be hard pressed to figure out what let go first, crank, rods, bolts are all in the frame

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 27, 07 10:45 am

Hi Dunc's,

That is a sad sight, brings tears to me eyes!!!

Cycled means, heated and cooled several times to age the casting molecules. (As in always use an old engine thats done 100,000miles).

This is probably one of them gremlin cases, no real answer. Cylinders 4 and 3 fire consequentialy, same as 6 and 5, so its double trouble for the crank! Maybe due to the higher compression an Hydraulic incident?

Dunc's we all know you will bounce back faster than most!!!

Keep up the good work, and best of luck, Baccy.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 27, 07 10:51 am

Cycled when refered to arp does not mean heat cycled

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Sat Oct 27, 07 11:13 am

no rod bolts or anythin let go 3-4 rods still hangin on that journel when i took them off the b end bearings were like new the crank did look like it had a fault in it a small area that was very different to the actual tear apart

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Oct 27, 07 12:44 pm

like I said Dunc, at that HP and rpm there is no shame in having to say "it's a Callies and it broke"

quite a bit of info on P13 ARP cat on reciprocating weight

Mopar Muscle Association UK

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