cam shaft for a '71 challenger

Derek · Post by **Derek** » Thu Jan 27, 05 9:01 pm

Welcome to the board Barry about time you got on here, i'm sure there are a few people on here that will point you in the right direction

Alex · Post by **Alex** » Thu Jan 27, 05 9:20 pm

'72 and up Steve

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jan 27, 05 10:26 pm

Barry. far better brains than I will post but, I put a Comp cams xe262h in my 318 Dart and was startled at how much power it gave once the carb/ign probs were sorted. Other sites rate the XE268H for 340/360 application but, you may lose vacuum to your brakes and I understand that there are more forgiving(?) profiles around. I'll get me coat now..

JohnR · Post by **JohnR** » Fri Jan 28, 05 12:02 am

I put an eldbrock street/strip cam in my car and you can tell the difference that and the 4 brl holley of course nice to see you on the club site at last, you going to chelsea sat?

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Fri Jan 28, 05 1:02 am

Asking what cam to use is a bit like asking what shoes to wear - as in - where are you going (walking or dancing or running?) and how fast do you want to get there? Except this lot will also want to know how much you weigh, and how long your legs are, and is it up hill or down or flat or what, and how often will you be wearing these shoes - not to mention do you want lace ups or slip ons etc. etc.

SteveB. Respect mate! That is the best quote I have heard in ages and I'll even go as far as ROMFAL (or whatever it is, go on, check! I wil not use these silly TLAs, except HTH as I am always helping

) 600 race prepped Holley, a good Dual Plane Ally manifold, port match the heads to the 'fold, 484 cam (they rock), headers, looser convertor and some 4.11s in the rear.. See what it runs, then strippo it, get some fibreglass panels and a roll cage (as well as sophisticated electronics) then throw a mild 440 in it and go sloweerr

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Jan 28, 05 9:06 am

Hughes Engines HEH 1928 AL

Valve Lift: INT .489" EXH .524"

Duration at 0.050" tappet lift: INT 219? EXH 228?

This will give you more power than stock over the full rpm range but it will feel stock in every other way. You will not need ported heads, headers, low gears etc with it either. Just de-coke the heads and grind the port area behind the valves smoother by taking off the casting and machining edges. Be careful around the valve seats. Make sure the valves are clean and well lapped in.

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Fri Jan 28, 05 10:18 am

An excellent surgeestion on cam Dave I would add that you would want to get the matching valve springs with that cam as the stock (tired) valve spings might not like the extra lift. I would personely top this off with the Edelbrock air gap manifold for a very well useable package you will notice a big difference with all of this

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Jan 28, 05 11:06 am

Spot on Guy. Thanks.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jan 30, 05 1:19 pm

Dave/Guy, does that cam require dual springs and if so, does the head need machining? I ask as the engine i'm about to rebuild (360) has a recently fitted edelbrock performer cam and springs. Would those springs suffice for the Hughes cam?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Jan 30, 05 1:30 pm

You have to use prings that match the cam. Otherwise they will be too weak or too strong. If you look at their web site you will see they sell springs to match. www.hughesengines.com

No they are not double springs and I don't think you need to machine the head at this level. I am sure the manufacturer would be the best person to advise on this though.