Just wondering

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Thu Dec 20, 07 7:13 pm

Andy, dont Holley do a 200 GPH black top. i think Kev has one ?
Your blue top is 140 GPH already isnt it ?

The Aeromotive 1000 i have is a FI pump, but you can tone it down with a Regulator.
But it needs to be a bypass one, so not much good for you unless you fit a return line

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Thu Dec 20, 07 7:16 pm

Not sure on the quality, but look very similar to holleys, even says parts are interchageable. Anyway heres the link, will let you check it out or let others chime in.
http://motors.search.ebay.com/140-gph-f ... sacatZ6028

Billet pumps from Jegs.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... 2_-1_10307

Mallory Pump info
http://www.mr-gasket.com/pdf/Fuel_System_Products.pdf

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Thu Dec 20, 07 7:22 pm

The Mallory Pumps are much better built, quieter and consistent

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Thu Dec 20, 07 7:44 pm

My Barry Grant is pretty quiet compared to a Holley Blue. The Holley blue pumps are flamin' awful things, I'll never use one of those again, all that howling and chattering, pressure fluctuating up and down.....

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Thu Dec 20, 07 8:08 pm

Magna flow have a very good name, and from what Ive read they get better feedback than BG pumps, particularly with servicing parts. Saying that though, I used to run a BG400 & never had an issue.

With all of these upper market type of brands (Magnaflow, BG, Aeromotive) the cost greatly increases.

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Thu Dec 20, 07 11:49 pm

Interesting read on fuel pipe sizes

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... ost4039997

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Dec 21, 07 12:20 am

I had an Aeromotive pump like this one http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku it was realy noisy and thought it was faulty so i got another the same to compare, thought was i'd at least have a spare. Just as well realy on the way home to Jersey from the Nats in 2006 i broke down, no fuel delivery, let it cool then ok for another 10 miles, then stopped again, and one ce more then pulled over and changed it 5 - 10 minutes and had no problems with new one. But as i said real noisy even over the engine noise.

Since then i've got one of the new Holley HP series, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku and it is so much quieter.

Of course noise would not be an issue if its purely for racing.

ps i have -8 feed and return and the aeromotive bypass and 100 and 10 micron filters and sumped tank also Aeromotive.

The other issue with these pumps is location, best is below the tank height and away from heat source (ie exaust), i can tell you this is realy difficult on the E-body Cuda with stock location tank.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Fri Dec 21, 07 8:49 am

Keith, the best place for all pumps, is either in, or below the tank height.
As you say bloody difficult on the Cuda, mid way is a reasonable compromise.

Blue, most BG pumps work work on the street, short duration only.

andyrob · Post by **andyrob** » Fri Dec 21, 07 9:05 am

now got my self all confused
from blues earlier link
we get:
Up to 250HP = 5/16" or -04 AN
Up to 375HP = 3/8" or -06 AN
Up to 550HP = 1/2" or -08 AN
Up to 800HP = 5/8" or -10 AN
Up to 1200HP = 3/4" or -12 AN
If you use a return-style regulator, you will also need a return line from the regulator back to the tank. The size of the return line is dependent on the size of the pump you are using, regardless of the engine's horsepower output. The return line must have limited or NO pressure in it. In most cases, the minimum return line size will match that of the supply line, but a larger return line is sometimes preferred.

Use these ratings to decide your return line sizing based upon fuel pump output:

Up to 45GPH = 5/16" or -04 AN
Up to 90GPH = 3/8" or -06 AN
Up to 180GPH = 1/2" or -08 AN
Up to 360GPH = 5/8" or -10 AN
up to 720GPH = 3/4"or -12 AN
http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp

from marks link we get
Up to 250 hp: 5/16" or –4AN
Up to 450 hp: 3/8" or –6AN
Up to 750 hp: 1/2" or –8AN
Up to 1250 hp: 5/8" or –10AN

& from marks ealier post we get

Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 1:08 am Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

andyrob wrote:
hi steve whats dash 10 in laymens terms ?

SIZE I/D O/D
# 4 0.22" 0.44"
# 6 0.34" 0.55"
# 8 0.44" 0.65"
#10 0.56" 0.80"
#12 0.69" 0.94"
# 16 0.88" 1.15"
# 20 1.13" 1.41"
# 24 1.34" 1.70"
# 32 1.75" 2.09"

A/N = Army Navy & based around 1/16"ths

i.e
# 4 = 4/16" =1/4"
# 10 = 10/16" = 5/8"
which is different

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Fri Dec 21, 07 9:11 am

Mmnnn thats confusing, conflicting sizes

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Fri Dec 21, 07 9:14 am

All the BG pumps are streetable but the higher output ones need to be run through a box to drop down the voltage to stop them overheating. The 220 GPH one I use is OK as it is. By my calculations that should be enough flow and pressure to feed the stroker. It seems some of the companies kid you up into buying a far larger pump than you really need. Timing how long your system takes to fill a gallon can is a good indication of how well your system flows. keeping sharp 90 degree turns out of the system is always a good idea.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Dec 21, 07 9:26 am

Most BG pumps are not rated for the street, they will quit at some point, not if just when.

Electric pumps need to be gravity fed from a sump and not from the stock pickup as they have very limited suction capabilities.

With an electric pump Line sizes are decided by the GPH needed at the bowls, so if -06 is needed at the bowls it's a -10 out of the sump
If -08 at the bowls then -12 at the sump

Every fitting in the system should be followed by a line size reduction, so filter and pump is classed as 1 fitting so if -06 at the bowls then -10 feed to the filter, -08 from pump outlet under the car to the reg, reg is classed as another fitting so -06 out.

On anything making half decent HP then a dual inlet kit is not enough, better to use a 2 port reg with each port supplying a bowl, mount the reg on the pipes a few inches in front of the carb (this removes vibration helping the ball to seat better) run the reg supply line from the pump at the back all the way to the core support then back to the reg, you have 2/3ft of gravity helping to force feed the reg on launch this way, by mounting the reg close to the carb reg reaction time is greatly reduced helping to keep the bowls as full as poss.

As for filters an electric pump only needs 1 good filter before the pump and close coupled to minimise fittings, 2 filters, 1 before and 1 after is firstly a waste of filters and second adds in twice the restriction.

BG tech is a good place to start http://www.barrygrant.com/bgfuel/default.aspx?page=81
do the fuel can test

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Fri Dec 21, 07 9:27 am

I never knew that,
.... as the BG400 pump I had said short duration track use only.,...as do most of their pumps... so i swapped it for something else, they are dropping the ball there

why dont they tell you that ? Im sorted out now but thats daft.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Fri Dec 21, 07 9:32 am

Sorted

Most of this is now on the Car

andyrob · Post by **andyrob** » Fri Dec 21, 07 12:52 pm

thought sod it, had to go the podwercoater so called in at the hydraulics place on the way & got everything for my fuel system well cheap (knew the guy), 1/2" ptfe internal dia & 3/8" from reg for gas
will probably slow car down as is that heavy, but its a proper job

now somebody will post & say ive gone to big or rubber lines are better than ptfe