Year One Wiring Harness Query

[Anonymous]

Hi all,

A quick wiring harness question.

On Saturday, I removed all the wiring (except for the forward wiring harness for the lights, indicators and headlight doors etc.) from the engine bay of my car. Everything was labelled, tagged, photographed and recorded properly. The state of the harness can be described as little more that abysmal. Chopped into, added to, unused wires... a real amateur has been at it.


Anyway, I am going to buy the engine harness from Year One (I am fitting a 440 6-pack engine in the car, and they have the correct harness for this motor made up) I have checked what came out of my car against a colour wiring diagram I have made up, and all seems fine with the swap I have to do - in theory, there will be no gaps.


My problem is this. I have (had) electronic ignition on my car, and I am not sure how this would be integrated with the new harness (OE wiring set-up). How is a car with electronic ignition different wiring-wise, to a standard car? I am not sure what additional wires / terminations have to be made and how.


Many thanks

Clive

[Dave-R]

Obviously the electronic ignition wiring is not art of the 6-pack harness. I got one of those myself a couple of years ago for the same reasons as you. It was a perfect fit.

The wires for the electronic ignition are completely seperate. I just taped them to the new harness where needed.

[Dave-R]

Here is a diagram of how the electronic ignition hooks up. Obviously the wires running to the coil and the distributor have to run along the top of the engine with the rest of the engine harness.

[Anonymous]

Blimey Dave - that took you 5-mins!!!! Many thanks for that, cant beleive I got respose that quick.


Sorry to be a simpleton Dave, but what are the actual changes that electronic ignition gives? Because of the state of my loom I am not 100% sure of what I am looking at. How is the electronic ignition module wired in? What wires go where.


Sorry to ask dumb questions but I dont really understand how this works..


Cheers

[Dave-R]

Maybe you just missed my second post? Just follow the diagram.

Don't even think about going back to a points distributor.

[Anonymous]

Blimey Dave, thats double spooky

Many thanks, very much appreciated.


Cheers

Clive

[Mick]

Clivey
I am also buying a engine harness, are you buying year one for originality.
The reason i am asking is i have asked Dean Inskip for a price and i have contacted Brewers 4 speed perf parts in the states who come well recomended and they have quoted me 125 dollars + post and they send it made for electronic if reqd.
Mick

[Mick]

Dave
How would that diagram change for a 4 pin resistor.
Mick

[Dave-R]

My scanner is busy tonight!

[Anonymous]

Doctor Dave,
I have a 4-terminal ballast resistor in my car. I am glad someone asked you for the diagram as I thought it was an irrelevance (Doh!)

Why would someone use a 4 term instead of a two term ballast resistor? I reckon its probably plain from the schematic but I wondered iof there was an obvious "quick answer".


Mick,
I am affraid originallity is the key for my old girl. Am trying to get car to original factory spec with as few MINOR deviations as possible (hence keeping the electronic ignition as this will aid driveability/useability). Year One do an engine harness purpose made for the 440-6 of 1970 with all connectors in place and tape wrappings. Its just gotta be so easy to plug it into my bulkhead connector, run around the bay, clip, and connect to the ancilliaries etc. Y1 want $124.99 for this harness (plus the shipping and VAT obviously) Gotta be the way to go really. All their harnesses are relatively cheap, except for the dash harness which thankfully I dont need.


Regds

C

[Dave-R]

Doctor Dave[\quote]

That's Doctor Dodge to you if you don't mind.

Why would someone use a 4 term instead of a two term ballast resistor?

I used to have the answer to that one. Can't remember what it was now. Don't loose sleep over it.