How quickly do you stop?
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Hmm i do like that idea Andy, i bet its expensive though.
That feeling you have when someone pulls out on you and your bearing down on them with 2-tons worth of car, is scary, and its not like they cant see you coming. Im sure it goes something like this: "...oh look dear thats a dodge charger down there about 300 yards away. He doesnt look like hes coming along too fast even though i can hear him from here, right lets be on our way then, did you remember to feed the tomato plants this morning..." and then its PUMPING TIME
That feeling you have when someone pulls out on you and your bearing down on them with 2-tons worth of car, is scary, and its not like they cant see you coming. Im sure it goes something like this: "...oh look dear thats a dodge charger down there about 300 yards away. He doesnt look like hes coming along too fast even though i can hear him from here, right lets be on our way then, did you remember to feed the tomato plants this morning..." and then its PUMPING TIME
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Anonymous
yeah a bit of overkill, BUT I had a new MP master cylinder literally blow a seal at the end of track while I was going well over 120, it squirted fluid all inside the wings and I still thank my lucky stars that it didn't get on the tyres.
Don't take any chances with brakes mate and get yourself a little Wilwood brake pressure gauge- they are cheap enough, that way you can set up your new braking system BEFORE you try any hairy stunts in the car.
There are a load of guys selling aftermarket brakes for Mopars now, have a word with my mate Bill Reilly at RMS motorsports, he'll give you some good advice and he builds/sells allsorts of goodies for our sort of cars. He also runs BigBlockDart.com, a well useful contact- or just look through the magazines or Summit or Jegs or.................
Don't take any chances with brakes mate and get yourself a little Wilwood brake pressure gauge- they are cheap enough, that way you can set up your new braking system BEFORE you try any hairy stunts in the car.
There are a load of guys selling aftermarket brakes for Mopars now, have a word with my mate Bill Reilly at RMS motorsports, he'll give you some good advice and he builds/sells allsorts of goodies for our sort of cars. He also runs BigBlockDart.com, a well useful contact- or just look through the magazines or Summit or Jegs or.................
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Er yeah I have the details for a lot of these guys, best thing to do is e-mail me directly, it's sneal@hvc.rr.com.
I don't get near the computer much due to the fact there is now a 10'10"x 8' hole in my floor where the basement stairs used to be and no staircase and my office is down in the basement- it's a long story...
I don't get near the computer much due to the fact there is now a 10'10"x 8' hole in my floor where the basement stairs used to be and no staircase and my office is down in the basement- it's a long story...
Brakes n that
I made worthwhile improvements thus and it cost me nowt
adjsuted the backs up so the shoes rubbed. pumped peddle and repeated until i could adjust no more
backed em off to give 2 inch free play peddle travel and no/minor drag on the drum.
at the front I took out the pads stuck a big socket in between the pistons and pushed the brake peddle gently. this moved the pistons past their usual line of travel and allowed me to blast out years of crud stuck around the rubber caps. probably pushed any gunk that had built up in the caliper out the way as well.
I then used a crank gear puller to pull them back in further back than they woulkd normally sit.
repeated a few times
This will overflow your master cylinder if you are not careful.
wire brushed of the crud
air lined off the dust
used rubber lube on the rubber dust covers (took the crustyness away)
copper slip on the piston tops new anti squeel shims
copper slip on the pad pins
pumped a bottle of brake fluid through the system till it ran clean. this took bloody ages.
instead of having brakes that are on or off i now have a nice progressive stop, the peddle feel is better and i don't lock up as much. whether i stop faster i don't know. but the whole stopping proceedure is repeatable predictable and it has done my nerves a lot of good.
one thing to note old brake fluid absorbes water like a sponge.
You may well not have any air bubbles in your system when the brake fluid is at room temperature but as soon as it heats up any absorbed water comes out as thousands of tiny vapour bubbles and makes the brakes majorly spongy.
also if changeing the fluid buy a new bottle or two, anything that has sat around half empty is probably already water logged.
silicone based brake fluid doesn't have this problem...trouble is you can't swap to it easily if you have had normal DOT in it
keep in mind also that some duel circuit master cylinders the kind that have a brake warning light pressure switch also had a safety piston in built.
if at anytime the brakes were applied and there was a pressure drop in either front or back circuit then the safety piston cuts all fluid flow to the afflicted circuit and the light should come on on the dash. If you bulb is gone or badly earthed you may find that you have been running around on only the front or back circuit.
unscrewing the presure switch about 4 mm allows the safety piston to re seat and opens up both circuits again. (this last bit may only be applicable to aussie built cars...although the master cylinders look identical and have identical 2 or 4 bolt mountings to US ones.
Dave
adjsuted the backs up so the shoes rubbed. pumped peddle and repeated until i could adjust no more
backed em off to give 2 inch free play peddle travel and no/minor drag on the drum.
at the front I took out the pads stuck a big socket in between the pistons and pushed the brake peddle gently. this moved the pistons past their usual line of travel and allowed me to blast out years of crud stuck around the rubber caps. probably pushed any gunk that had built up in the caliper out the way as well.
I then used a crank gear puller to pull them back in further back than they woulkd normally sit.
repeated a few times
This will overflow your master cylinder if you are not careful.
wire brushed of the crud
air lined off the dust
used rubber lube on the rubber dust covers (took the crustyness away)
copper slip on the piston tops new anti squeel shims
copper slip on the pad pins
pumped a bottle of brake fluid through the system till it ran clean. this took bloody ages.
instead of having brakes that are on or off i now have a nice progressive stop, the peddle feel is better and i don't lock up as much. whether i stop faster i don't know. but the whole stopping proceedure is repeatable predictable and it has done my nerves a lot of good.
one thing to note old brake fluid absorbes water like a sponge.
You may well not have any air bubbles in your system when the brake fluid is at room temperature but as soon as it heats up any absorbed water comes out as thousands of tiny vapour bubbles and makes the brakes majorly spongy.
also if changeing the fluid buy a new bottle or two, anything that has sat around half empty is probably already water logged.
silicone based brake fluid doesn't have this problem...trouble is you can't swap to it easily if you have had normal DOT in it
keep in mind also that some duel circuit master cylinders the kind that have a brake warning light pressure switch also had a safety piston in built.
if at anytime the brakes were applied and there was a pressure drop in either front or back circuit then the safety piston cuts all fluid flow to the afflicted circuit and the light should come on on the dash. If you bulb is gone or badly earthed you may find that you have been running around on only the front or back circuit.
unscrewing the presure switch about 4 mm allows the safety piston to re seat and opens up both circuits again. (this last bit may only be applicable to aussie built cars...although the master cylinders look identical and have identical 2 or 4 bolt mountings to US ones.
Dave
Been going through the archives eh, Dave?
If you read back there's been lots of discussion on glycol vs silicone fluid, the overall concensus is that glycol is worth sticking with if given the free choice (DOT 5.1 being the pick of the litter). Some people will, no doubt, stick with the silicone though.
If you read back there's been lots of discussion on glycol vs silicone fluid, the overall concensus is that glycol is worth sticking with if given the free choice (DOT 5.1 being the pick of the litter). Some people will, no doubt, stick with the silicone though.
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Anonymous
JamesKing wrote:Been going through the archives eh, Dave?
If you read back there's been lots of discussion on glycol vs silicone fluid, the overall concensus is that glycol is worth sticking with if given the free choice (DOT 5.1 being the pick of the litter). Some people will, no doubt, stick with the silicone though.
no i hadn't before i wrote it but spotted my error soon after
4 posts below at the time
but i thought screwit stand by what ya sayin dave
i should start at the bottom and work up
Well i'm pleased to say i was at least on the right track......
should spend some more time reading before i next jump in....
PS the rubber lube is stuff i picked up in Oz
their window rubbers go flakey a damn site fater than ours due to UV light.
It just feeds tho surface like bootpolish on leather. I think its an armourall product in a hand pump
presume its a silicone based thing i think its probably all the same stuff regardless of what it says on the tin.
Dave