Cost for narrowing

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Jul 01, 08 11:24 pm

My narrowed and braced 8 3/4 with Mosers was over £1K several years ago without the brakes and Centre section.....

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Tue Jul 01, 08 11:29 pm

How much tyre do you yo want Jem?

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Wed Jul 02, 08 12:14 am

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20000
Bargain!!!

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Jul 02, 08 6:02 am

If you read the original question, "What doe's it cost to get an axle narrowed?" You get ,

Shafts £250
Bearings £64
Studs£17
Case £170

That comes to £555.

Jem · Post by **Jem** » Wed Jul 02, 08 9:37 am

I've already bought the tyres Jeff - brand new from Kev.

They're Mickey Thompson Sportsmans. From memory they're 28" tall but can't remember the width but they're the same as what Blue runs. I'll be buying 10" rims in the near future.

As you know, Blue's motor will be going into my car some time this year.
I just can't see me getting that kind of power down with 7" rims and 275's.

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Wed Jul 02, 08 9:43 am

Jem, why not just take a pair of slicks mounted on spare wheels? If you want to go wider, there is a spring relocation kit for a B body.

Got to be honest mate, don't see the point in narrowing and tubbing. I seen real fast cars without those mods.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Jul 02, 08 11:14 am

At most it should only need mini-tubbing to get decent sized rubber under there. Just make sure you are clever with the wheel offset.

I run 11x26 street tyres on my Challenger and 10x28 slicks with ample room. That is with stock tubs and axle but using offset rear spring hangers.

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Wed Jul 02, 08 11:18 am

That has to be a better answer! Save some money for other stuff Jem!

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Jul 02, 08 12:28 pm

Wheel offset is the problem. If you want to use a vintage wheel (as Jem doe's), you are stuck with 3 3/4" backspace or less, whether the rim is a 7", 8" or 10". The Tyre's on there now only fit because the sidewalls are pulled right in by using a 7" rim which is really too small. I will move the springs in and minitub it, then cut the axle to suit the rims. No other way around it if you have a certain look in mind. Apart from "Waltonizing" the arches of course

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jul 03, 08 6:35 pm

Big Dog used to run 28x11 slick on weld Drag lites, Mojo runs 8 1/2 american racing TTD's with a Drag radial both cars have no issues.............

Jem · Post by **Jem** » Fri Jul 04, 08 9:56 am

I think I must be missing something here!

If I've got 7" Torq Thrust rims with 275's and the tyre is only 10mm away from the wheel arch, how can I go any wider without narrowing the axle?

The back space on a 8 1/2" or 10" Torq Thrust rim is the same as the 7".

Post by **TyreFryer** » Fri Jul 04, 08 9:59 am

Have the back of the wheel machined?

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Fri Jul 04, 08 10:16 am

This is such a common problem. Perhaps we could all club together, and get one of those doo dahs that bolt to your hub, and work out max wheel size, back space and tyre size!

Post by **TyreFryer** » Fri Jul 04, 08 10:25 am

That has been suggested before Jeff, I could have used one on two occasions.