Glueing panels

JohnR · Post by **JohnR** » Fri Jul 04, 08 7:09 am

Dont see why not if you go to one of these paint suppliers they sell the stuff its suposed to be very good

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Jul 04, 08 8:19 am

Blackbird. 'Apparently' glueing of panels is the current 'thing' in the bodywork industry. Many new cars are constructed that way.

You might want to ring John Castleman and have a chat with him. We were talking about it coincidentally last Saturday as a sales rep for the bonding agent had been in to see him that week funnily enough. The advancements in technology are now sufficient to make it worth considering against welding. I do not know about the level of prep required / curing times, application processes etc. but from what John said it is EFFING strong adhesive. As he has been approached by a rep, he might be able to tell you more about whats available on the market.

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Fri Jul 04, 08 12:41 pm

taken on board about the blueing jobbie, dont reckon it will be any use to black bird, its one off them jobs that y dread but, attack the split with a wirebrush/grinder, you will have it all welded within an hr. regrind prep n paint, done easy within a weekend, bitch it happened but sorted,

such a proper car they coulda butted them two half,s up correctly

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Fri Jul 04, 08 1:54 pm

Yes, structural adhesives on cars are not new, been around as a recommended repair technique for almost 20 years. I don't believe they are in common use on modern new cars, quicker and cheaper to spotweld, but excellent for panel repairs. Mind you I would think you'lll need to clean back to metal anyway??

Either way, I wouldn't have a problem using the stuff, like Clive said it is VERY strong

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Jul 04, 08 2:04 pm

Tis the best way to put a new side on a VW van maaaaasive expanse of flat metal and plenty of scope for warpage

works a treat ive been told although i think a few spot welds are used as well but only on the seams that turn inisde the van and can be welded from the inside with a spot weldy gun

Dave

latil · Post by **latil** » Fri Jul 04, 08 2:05 pm

I think I'd be looking at anything else done by the same welder...

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Fri Jul 04, 08 4:51 pm

latil wrote:I think I'd be looking at anything else done by the same welder...

Good point - that should not have broken unless something was not right

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Fri Jul 04, 08 6:47 pm

I know structural adhesive is great stuff, but you still need to clean & prep area as if you were welding.

On this basis, I would weld boot floor, it will be stronger without question. Give a nice smear of Sikkaflex after welding, as added strength & quick paint, spray can will suffice in mean time. This will be fine, until or of if you want to get it painted properly later.

At least this way, no need to worry about it later.

aussie pete · Post by **aussie pete** » Fri Jul 04, 08 7:40 pm

As has already been mentioned the joint surfaces have to be cleen and `keyed up`. The proper structural adhesive is damn strong (the lotus chassis is only glued together). The structural adhesise that i use at work has to be heat cured at 80 deg for 1-2 hours to get its full strength.

Scooby · Post by **Scooby** » Fri Jul 04, 08 11:19 pm

A panel like that should be welded I would also check other points of join contact, if that's gone, there's a good chance it may pop somewhere else under stress.

Save the bonding for modern cars-metals and of course glass.
Rich.