Blue's stroker build

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Ivor
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Post by Ivor »

TrevD wrote:Blue, i think 8 thoy is a bit excessive, it is probably more like 8 tenths (of a thou) . to get the damper on with 8 thou interference would take a sledge hammer and a big bloke to swing it all day
That's why I suggested the liquid nitrogen Trev!

I'm planning to assemble mine using a hydraulic press...funny though the last two factory dampers I removed came off quite easily. :roll:
The pump don’t work coz the vandals took the handles.

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Pete
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Post by Pete »

I have gone the same route as Blue for Julie's stroker 400.

I drew the line at the caps and not the girdle. In terms of external oiling, the internal pick up may foul the girdle, but at that level you have already gone for at least a single line oiling system anyway to avoid potential starvation problems.

I am very concerned about the bottom end of Julie's 440 based 500, despite ARP studs on the mains.

We will cane it mercilessly at the Nats and if it does not kablooey then we will retire it and think ourselves lucky.

That motor makes 647bhp at 7000 rpm; and they ain't gonna last long at that level.

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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

I don't recall having any issues putting my damper on.

As far as I remember I just made sure there were no nicks or burrs on the crank snout or in the damper, heated it up in the oven on a very low setting (just over 100 degrees) for 20 mins, grabbed it with the oven gloves, and plonked it on double quick with no messing. :thumbright:
Anonymous

Post by Anonymous »

db wrote:
Cannonball wrote:four bolting them weakens them jim, best combo the 2 bolt billet caps,
How come Dunc that looks tough as anythin??
I can see the potential problem with steel 4 bolt mains , but can't see why you would stress the block if you went alli 4 bolt mains , any detonation/flex would be absorbed by the 4 bolt aluminium caps. :?


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Post by Pete »

The pan rails on an R/B are not that strong, they kind of exist to fix the sump in place. All the work is done from the Cam support area down to the mains. This is why on top fuel a crack in the cam webs is considered terminal.

The KB block has masses of re-enforcement to the pan rail area and 4 cross bolts to supplement the 2 bolt mains.
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Post by Anonymous »

Maybe i'm confused , but surely a 4 bolt billet main cap will be a stronger than a 2 bolt billet main cap , can't get me head round why it would stress the block , but i can see how a steel 4 bolt cap could stress the block. :?

Always lookin for good info. :thumbright:
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db
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Post by db »

I guess every bolt requires a hole to be drilled in the block and every hole is a weak point.
On a bit of a tangent but a relative one...
My GS1000 bike motor has heavy duty (thicker) head studs fitted and when i let it overrev dramatically one day (nitrous-oops :roll: ) The case split where the studs screwed in. I learned today that Pops Yoshimura, the God of Jap bike engines always used stock studs in his World championship winning bikes, he obviously knew something!!
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Post by Cannonball »

just as a note, after i felt my hemi/440 blocked combo had run its course through the bad ring seal deal, i pulled the mains/ shells and it was perfect like they had just been fitted, now bear in mind this mtr was makin circa 800 hp on a 440 block it pulled 135 mph in my orange challenger so it was not all bad,
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HEY WHATS THE TOP END ON THAT SUPERSPORTS. UNLIMITED,

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Pete
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Post by Pete »

Cannonball wrote:just as a note, after i felt my hemi/440 blocked combo had run its course through the bad ring seal deal, i pulled the mains/ shells and it was perfect like they had just been fitted, now bear in mind this mtr was makin circa 800 hp on a 440 block it pulled 135 mph in my orange challenger so it was not all bad,

What RPM were you pulling? I guess that must have been over 7K?
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Post by Cannonball »

Pete wrote:
Cannonball wrote:just as a note, after i felt my hemi/440 blocked combo had run its course through the bad ring seal deal, i pulled the mains/ shells and it was perfect like they had just been fitted, now bear in mind this mtr was makin circa 800 hp on a 440 block it pulled 135 mph in my orange challenger so it was not all bad,

What RPM were you pulling? I guess that must have been over 7K?
yes pete shifted around 7-7,200 and through the big end 7,300 i really leaned on that mtr once i sorta knew that it was not a perfect mtr but it loved the abuse and i was pleasantly surprised how nice it all was when stripped,
www.dwatts80.fsnet.co.uk

WATTS RACING TRANSMISSIONS, CLOBBER THE COMPETITION ITS CLOBBERIN TIME

OFTEN OUTNUMBERED NEVER OUTGUNNED,

HEY WHATS THE TOP END ON THAT SUPERSPORTS. UNLIMITED,

I HAVE A NVQW

LIFE GOES PRETTY FAST, IF YOU DONT LOOK ROUND A WHILE YOU MAY JUST MISS IT,

THE PASS IS THE JUICE,

LOVED BY FEW,
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RESPECTED BY ALL
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Post by Pete »

That's encouraging!

Let the abuse commence :evil:
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Post by AllKiller »

Just out of interest Blue, what type of paint did you use on the inside of the block.
very interesting thread this :thumbright:
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Post by Blue »

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Post by Kev »

What head gaskets are you using? ;)
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Post by Blue »

I've got Felpro's and some ROL's. I've read that there's sometimes a problem with the fire ring overhanging the chamber on Edelbrocks when using certain makes of gasket. It's another thing I have yet to check, I'll use whatever fits best....
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