Caster/Camber

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 20, 08 10:42 am

am I correct in forgetting about the service manual settings for caster/camber setup?
Info with the new UCA says 3 degrees caster and 1/2 degree negative camber.
How should the cam bolts be installed initially or does it not matter?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Aug 20, 08 10:46 am

Move the front bushes OUT as much as possible and the rears IN to the max too.

That gives you max positive castor. Castor will drop off as you turn the front bushes back in to get your negative camber.

Do it that way and see what you are left with.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 20, 08 11:54 am

Sorry if this is a daft question, but aren't you doubling up on the adjustments there?

I would of thought with those (VERY nice) trick top arms that the adjustment is in the threaded rose joints?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Aug 20, 08 12:12 pm

Are they rose joints though?

Even if not you have a point there Phill because winding both in will give you the camber you need without changing the bush cams.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Aug 20, 08 12:20 pm

Yes and that's the whole point! First side you do will take ages because you have to keep taking the arm off and screwing the joints in or out of the arms until you get within the adjustment range of the cams. Once you have one side set up how you want it, the other side is easy. The stock A arms will not allow you to dial in extra caster without affecting the camber, you pretty much have to set up the camber and whatever caster you are left with is as much as you are going to get. Having screw in joints allows adjustment way beyond the limit of the cams, which is nice....

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Aug 20, 08 12:39 pm

Cool!

You would think they would come with instructions wouldn't you?

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Aug 20, 08 12:50 pm

Yes you would! When I did mine, I set both cams in the centre position, screwed the joints almost all the way in and started from there. I then kept adjusting one joint or the other until I had the alignment close, and then messing with the cams to get it spot on. You can then assemble the other side with the joints screwed out the same amount and be within the cams adjustment range straight away.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 20, 08 1:00 pm

the blurb for these arms said they are preset for 3 degrees Caster, err yeah!! As it stands, the arms are on with no adjustment made. Yes, it`s gonna be a pain to take them on and off to get the settings near, then use the cam bolts for any fine tuning, which is why it says put them in a central position. These arms need spacer washers either side of the joint to make up the width adjustment from standard arms, just to add a certain degree of difficulty to the fiddle factor

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Wed Aug 20, 08 1:17 pm

Why didn't they build them with double adjusters like this?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 20, 08 1:24 pm

they do, just a bit more $$
http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumforce_ ... l_arms.htm

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Wed Aug 20, 08 1:39 pm

Ah! Thanks Neil, it did seem to be an opportunity missed