HELP... Changed master cylinder and Engine wont start.....??

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Sep 15, 08 7:20 pm

Got to be the carb flooding or burning rich enough to foul the plugs then.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Sep 15, 08 9:56 pm

If the carb has not been rebuilt for a number of years or messed with by someone without a full rebuild kit then I would buy a kit and replace every seal in the thing while giving it a good clean for good measure.

THEN tune it. Because if any of the gaskets or seals are bad you are wasting your time trying to tune it.

First of all you have to make sure the timing is as good as possible.

Then you have to make sure the throttle blades are not open too far at idle. You really need a vacuum gauge to do this otherwise you need to keep taking the carb off to see the throttle blade position from the underside. They are cheap enough and even Halfords sell them.

With the gauge make sure there is no vacuum on the advance port which is above the throttle blades. That ensures the idle circuits are working.

Then adjust the idle to just rich enough for max manifold vacuum or max rpm. Then back off lean a quarter turn each side. On an automatic you do this with the car in drive to load the engine.

That at least will get it idling correctly.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed Sep 17, 08 10:26 am

Aha

you had a vaccum leak that leaned out the over fueling condition caused by your leaky carb and allowed the car to idle

now you have fangled about with your brakes the vaccum leek is now gone and you are suffering the full effect of the leeky carb

who's with me!!!!

Dave

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Sep 17, 08 12:32 pm

That might be about right Dave.