heater and blower
Moderator: Moderators
heater and blower
can anyone let me know if the heater and blower box be removed without removing the dash on a 68 charger. I would also appreciate any advice on resolving the issue i have with my heater. The fan works but i can never get any heat out of it so i need to remove it to find out why. has anyone had similar problems. the temperature slide adjuster has no resistance when i move it backwards or forwards so i wonder if that is disconnected?
You can remove a non A/C box complete without touching the dash.
You will have to remove the "go" and "return" pipes from within the engine bay to get the heater box out, and about 4 nuts in the engine bay.
The heater element is "constantly on" in a Mopar - all the box does is shut a door to prevent the heat traveling around the plenum box.
I have a complete "B" body A/C box if you are interested.
You will have to remove the "go" and "return" pipes from within the engine bay to get the heater box out, and about 4 nuts in the engine bay.
The heater element is "constantly on" in a Mopar - all the box does is shut a door to prevent the heat traveling around the plenum box.
I have a complete "B" body A/C box if you are interested.
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.
Mopar by the grace of God
Mopar by the grace of God
-
Anonymous
I am confused. You haven't said what box you have and Pete is offering an A/C one 
Pete is right. The matrix in the box has a constant supply of hot water to it via the block. The heat to the car works by directing air through the matrix, or not. Air is then heated as it passes through.
So, no hot air in the car. This could be interpreted two ways:
1.) No 'hot'air, but there is an air flow. This would mean that the matrix is not heating the water. Could very well be a blocked matrix.
If this is the case, take the two pipes that run from the bulkhead to the left hand side of the water pump (as you look into the engine bay and assuming its a big block). Disconnect them, and connect one to your garden hose - direct the other out the bottom of the engine bay into a bucket. Run the tap for a while, then switch hoses - this MIGHT dislodge crap and flush matrix. Once you have flow through the matrix, get some rad flush in there (after all, thats all a matrix is) and leave it for a while to disolve the crud as per directions for the flush tou buy. Then flush again. Put it back together and see if the problem has gone (remember bleed the air out of the system cos you might air lock it).
2.) No air at all. Pete suggested an answer to that, and your point about no resistance to temp control is a clue. The sliding wire from the temp control connects to a flap actuator on the top of the box. Once you get the flap open, you should get airflow.
Is the motor working?
Regds
C
Pete is right. The matrix in the box has a constant supply of hot water to it via the block. The heat to the car works by directing air through the matrix, or not. Air is then heated as it passes through.
So, no hot air in the car. This could be interpreted two ways:
1.) No 'hot'air, but there is an air flow. This would mean that the matrix is not heating the water. Could very well be a blocked matrix.
If this is the case, take the two pipes that run from the bulkhead to the left hand side of the water pump (as you look into the engine bay and assuming its a big block). Disconnect them, and connect one to your garden hose - direct the other out the bottom of the engine bay into a bucket. Run the tap for a while, then switch hoses - this MIGHT dislodge crap and flush matrix. Once you have flow through the matrix, get some rad flush in there (after all, thats all a matrix is) and leave it for a while to disolve the crud as per directions for the flush tou buy. Then flush again. Put it back together and see if the problem has gone (remember bleed the air out of the system cos you might air lock it).
2.) No air at all. Pete suggested an answer to that, and your point about no resistance to temp control is a clue. The sliding wire from the temp control connects to a flap actuator on the top of the box. Once you get the flap open, you should get airflow.
Is the motor working?
Regds
C
the wire that controls the flaps is like a brake cable off a bike
it only works if the outer is clamped so that the inner cable can be drawn back and forth
it has two or 3 metal clips
at least
1 on the back of the control (or very close by) and one on a bit of metal that sticks up off the heater box within about 3-4 inches of where the cable inner latches on (the end is stepped).
the clips are uniquely Chrysler. if they come off your heater control has minimal resistance and does nothing. because it just draws the whole cable back and forth not the inner.
at least some aircon Chrylsers had a heater matrix water tap on the drivers side inner wing that was activated by manifold vacuum via an AIRTEMP branded vacuum switch (basically a more complicated set of buttons under your heater slider) these things work by you pushing and pulling on the switches to direct vacuum to accumulators which change the configuration of the air passages in your heater/aircon box
most after approx 2 minutes got the buttons pressed in so hard (vacuum actuation is much slower than electrical so people hammered on the switches) the back of the vacuum module cracked and the unit is ruined.
in some cases the aircon box has a bigger fan motor than the heater box
and dependednt on year the motor is in the passenger compartment or sticks through the firewall into the engine bay.
obvioulsy if it sticks through the firewall and you get a unit with a bigger motor (actually its the mounting and insulation thats bigger) then the hole needs to be made bigger. vice verca is easier because blanking plates in metal and fibreglass are availble and they can be cut for the smaller motor.
Dave
it only works if the outer is clamped so that the inner cable can be drawn back and forth
it has two or 3 metal clips
at least
1 on the back of the control (or very close by) and one on a bit of metal that sticks up off the heater box within about 3-4 inches of where the cable inner latches on (the end is stepped).
the clips are uniquely Chrysler. if they come off your heater control has minimal resistance and does nothing. because it just draws the whole cable back and forth not the inner.
at least some aircon Chrylsers had a heater matrix water tap on the drivers side inner wing that was activated by manifold vacuum via an AIRTEMP branded vacuum switch (basically a more complicated set of buttons under your heater slider) these things work by you pushing and pulling on the switches to direct vacuum to accumulators which change the configuration of the air passages in your heater/aircon box
most after approx 2 minutes got the buttons pressed in so hard (vacuum actuation is much slower than electrical so people hammered on the switches) the back of the vacuum module cracked and the unit is ruined.
in some cases the aircon box has a bigger fan motor than the heater box
and dependednt on year the motor is in the passenger compartment or sticks through the firewall into the engine bay.
obvioulsy if it sticks through the firewall and you get a unit with a bigger motor (actually its the mounting and insulation thats bigger) then the hole needs to be made bigger. vice verca is easier because blanking plates in metal and fibreglass are availble and they can be cut for the smaller motor.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
I Can hear the motor turn so that fine. i will try flushing the matrix out Clivey ( thanx for the advice). I will remove the switch and see what is up with the cable and let you know the results.Pete thanks for the offer of an A/C box but i don't want to swap to A/C, I'm trying to keep my car standard.Thanks for all your help, the advice on hear far out weighs the need for a manual.
update
took switch cover off today and both cables were broken in the closed position. I cut outer cable and made new loops at the end and the put it back together now it works lovely.
thanks for all your help
anton
thanks for all your help
anton