Brutus, might be a pain in the arse mate, but I think you are doing things the right way. Always good to check, double check & check again once more for luck.Brutus wrote:Well , after havin the crank crack tested , ground .010 (mains & rods) , rods ground for clearance (.007) ..................mocked the bottom end up & found #7 & 8 rod Bananarama! the clinder walls (rod caps sit higher) , was thinking of chamfering the rod bolts but was told to clearance the walls instead , all gotta come out again , will check all cylinders for clearance.
One step forward ten back.![]()
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I also agree with the direction on clearancing the walls & not the rod bolts. Very easy to cause stress riser, when grinding items such as bolts. I know it can be done carefully, graining & then polishing. But on the plus side, if you ever want to change rod bolts, its a direct swap.
As you always say, better to do it right once...
Cheers,
Mark . . .