Supports were across the pan underneath, 20mm box section from B&Q
close to where the cell goes through the floor. Cell went down about halfway. Pumps and filter should be below the bottom of the sump. If you want to fit the pumps and filter in the boot don't sink the cell, and make sure the fuel level is always above the pump rotor. Straps were flat ally bar from B&Q, thickness to suit channels in cell, these were bolted through the floor and the cross supports with nyloc bolts from B&Q. Don't forget to earth the filler ring, this can be done to the straps, NHRA rule. The whole tank installation on the 'Cab was transplanted into Turnip's 'Cuda.
Magic Trunk Show!
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Top man 
So the support would go from left chassis leg to right, following the new floor line.
I've got lengths of 1" box and i can get some bits of old tower earthing strips in copper or ally. I'll have to commandeer another old BT steel cupboard for the sheet metal
More questions....
Where did you fold and where did you weld? How many pieces did you make it in?
I take it the pump has to be kept primed by gravity then? Curses, i don't see a neat way of fitting the pump low enough in the trunk. More shiny stuff hidden under the car
Do the pump & filter have to be mounted the right way up?
So the support would go from left chassis leg to right, following the new floor line.
I've got lengths of 1" box and i can get some bits of old tower earthing strips in copper or ally. I'll have to commandeer another old BT steel cupboard for the sheet metal
More questions....
Where did you fold and where did you weld? How many pieces did you make it in?
I take it the pump has to be kept primed by gravity then? Curses, i don't see a neat way of fitting the pump low enough in the trunk. More shiny stuff hidden under the car
Do the pump & filter have to be mounted the right way up?
No-one will believe you...
Pump and filter need to be mounted the right way up unless instructions tell you otherwise. You want a "head" of fuel above the pump to relp keep it primed and make it's life a bit easier. I don't think mounting the pump in the boot is a good idea although lots of guys do it. My reason is that if something springs a leak you'll get a bootful of petrol, I'd rather have it leak onto the ground where there's less chance of a fire.
“It’s good enough for Nancy”
Ta Blue.
My reasons were vanity (shiny things!) and i figured that expensive kit would be safer inside! I'd planned to make a bit of a sump & drain below it so any leak would escape.
Not many clues in the instructions, just a pic, so i'd best keep 'em upright. It would have plumbed neater with the filter inverted but it's not a big deal.
The feed & return line connections are to the tank sump, i have a spare hole on top of the tank. Should i vent this or blank it off do you think? (the cap is vented)
My reasons were vanity (shiny things!) and i figured that expensive kit would be safer inside! I'd planned to make a bit of a sump & drain below it so any leak would escape.
Not many clues in the instructions, just a pic, so i'd best keep 'em upright. It would have plumbed neater with the filter inverted but it's not a big deal.
The feed & return line connections are to the tank sump, i have a spare hole on top of the tank. Should i vent this or blank it off do you think? (the cap is vented)
No-one will believe you...
Didn't need a return line with a bitty 318........Made the pump noisier than it needed to be but I couldn't hear my Rolf Harris over the engine anyways.
Sump was 3 pieces, not including the fillets for the sump. Front to back was 1 piece with 4 folds (along, down, across, up, across.) Side pieces were 1 fold (across, down) started off as a T shape. Welds sides to main part. You'll now have a sunken box with a flange all round slightly bigger than the hole in the trunk. (Plus all the fannying around cutting the sump flap and putting in the fillets. Slot it into the floor, on the support bars, wiggle till square. Lap weld all round. Find the lowest point of the sump floor when at ride height to drill darin holes in the well corners, then drill drain holes in all four corners just to be on the safe side!! That was the cool gig with making it out of card to start with. You can easily work out the best, most economical way to cut the pattern up to fit in a normal folding machine. Just copy round the patterns, cut 'em out, fold 'em up, jobs a good 'un!!
Sump was 3 pieces, not including the fillets for the sump. Front to back was 1 piece with 4 folds (along, down, across, up, across.) Side pieces were 1 fold (across, down) started off as a T shape. Welds sides to main part. You'll now have a sunken box with a flange all round slightly bigger than the hole in the trunk. (Plus all the fannying around cutting the sump flap and putting in the fillets. Slot it into the floor, on the support bars, wiggle till square. Lap weld all round. Find the lowest point of the sump floor when at ride height to drill darin holes in the well corners, then drill drain holes in all four corners just to be on the safe side!! That was the cool gig with making it out of card to start with. You can easily work out the best, most economical way to cut the pattern up to fit in a normal folding machine. Just copy round the patterns, cut 'em out, fold 'em up, jobs a good 'un!!
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The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
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Anonymous
, that's worse than Doris Day. -
Anonymous