Getting the Dart beater into the 13's?

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Sat Jan 31, 09 4:59 pm

What i do understand, is the 383 is just 23 cubes up on the 360
and my stock, just cammed (484 purple shaft hydraulic) and big carbed 800 DP 383 went 12.7 without the air cleaner back in 85
your lighter car should go 13 easy

what do you shift at on the old motor ?

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Jan 31, 09 5:23 pm

I think the reason is that the BB's put out more torque, and this gets you to the 60foot quicker. It also helps if you can get the tyres to hook up.

Your new setup may make it with tweaking - I am sure people will be prepared to help out at the track.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sat Jan 31, 09 6:21 pm

A 'glass hood and front bumper will not only make the car much quicker on the track but it will also handle on the corners better. And without making the car any less "streetable". I would seriously consider them.

The only drawback is taking the hood off in windy weather.

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Sat Jan 31, 09 7:08 pm

Interesting thread! Mine ran 15 sec 1/4's. As is.

With the front bumper off, door mirrors off and a air tube from the front into a modded air filter, it ran a 14.9.

Perhaps if I get a glass hood?

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sat Jan 31, 09 7:38 pm

wow, been away a few hours! Thanks for all the input.
As for my times, do remember that i'm new to this so driver error will be a factor. Additionally, these Darts really only can have smallish tyres in the stock wheelwells.
Pete has a valid point about torque, but the motor hooked up really well with the 3.91...once the tyres had stopped spinning.
Before I fitted new mono leafs and gas shocks, i took a mate out in the car, he asked me to hit it full on from a standing start. The car barely moved and just fried the tyres, so i reckon there is repectable power.
The yanks talk a lot about the chassis set up which is another factor in getting of the line i'm sure. Top speed Bananarama! 98mph which is just into 13, territory, and I have been very conservative with rpm, never more than approx 5,300 or so as the rods and bolts are stock.

Stu · Post by **Stu** » Sat Jan 31, 09 7:48 pm

Interesting, this.

Was wondering what sort of times to expect from the Barracuda, with the interim small block and then with the big block once it's done.

This thread is a bit of an eye-opener.

I would be very interested to see how much a glass hood/scoop sets you back and how much difference it makes, Miles.

Rooting to see the 13's after all the work you've done!

This is as good to read as all the mega fast stuff, as it's in the ballpark of where we might be.

The change in gearing is going to be interesting also.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sat Jan 31, 09 7:58 pm

Stu, glad you like it. This really is the thread for the entry level guy on a budget. Its also a great learning experience for me. I had considered the big block route but dont live near enogh to a drag strip to justify it.

There was a 400/727 combo for sale very near me, but the cost of the stroker kit, special heads, new tranny and proper axle soon banished that idea!

All the work on the car is dome on my drive, but i managed to get the engine into my 6 x 4 shed (tight!) via a skateboard. Soon as the weather warms up i'll be refitting and looking forward to the dreaded cam break in

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sat Jan 31, 09 8:00 pm

Weight removal is your best bet. Your car probably goes about 3200lbs or so, you could get that down to 2800 pretty easily and improve the weight distribution at the same time, assisting traction. Sorry but those battering ram bumpers have got to go, there's probably the best part of 150lb in those alone...

Stu · Post by **Stu** » Sat Jan 31, 09 8:19 pm

MilesnMiles wrote:Stu, glad you like it. This really is the thread for the entry level guy on a budget.

I hear you, Brother!

Best of luck, maybe we'll get a heads up later in the year. (Or maybe next at this rate...

)

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sat Jan 31, 09 8:19 pm

And you are shifting far too low.

Nothing wrong with the stock rods. It is the rod bolts that fail if they have not be installed correctly. Otherwise you are good to 6K easy.

A very well ballanced rotating assembly (where the weight of all the rods and pistons has been equalised) will rev to 7.5K even with stock pistons/rods as long as the rod bolts are good quality and all the bearing clearences are good on a stock stroke crank.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sat Jan 31, 09 8:33 pm

blue, but i like my chrome bumpers, they're the only bit of the car that polishes up

Dave, clearences are all correct, but the rod bolts are stock and I thought 5.500 was about right for those?
The previous cam didnt nedd much more revs, but the new cam/inlet/gears could probably do more.

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Sat Jan 31, 09 8:37 pm

Well you can keep the stock bumpers, and take them offf at the track.
Or get glass ones get them painted and cleared. they will still polish up.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sat Jan 31, 09 8:40 pm

Jeff, you ought to see the humungus and rusted bolts that hold them on. Nasty!

Post by **TyreFryer** » Sat Jan 31, 09 9:19 pm

MilesnMiles wrote:All the work on the car is dome on my drive, but i managed to get the engine into my 6 x 4 shed (tight!) via a skateboard.:

Excellent! True British spirit and I can sympathise with you, I face similar challenges. Well done.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Jan 31, 09 9:40 pm

Don't think a stock motor will ever see 7k , the lifters will bleed down plus the heads won't flow , not to mention the valves bouncin off there seats.

You could give it a whirl with solid lifters & see what she'll rpm @ , that's if the stock oiling system is capable , me , i'd take a pass on that one.