Roll bar query

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed May 11, 05 7:26 pm

Just been on firm Feels' website looking at anti-roll bars.
my Dart has no roll bars, I can probably stretch to one roll bar kit. which will have the best effect on handling? Front or rear?

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed May 11, 05 7:41 pm

I'd suggest front

you would tend to base your rear anti roll bar stiffness on what you had already put on the front.

(however this advice is based on experience in cars with Independant rear suspension)

rear roll bars can get you into interesting situations if they are too stiff or not working in harmony with the front

eg facing the on-coming traffic and not knowing how you got there.

too stiff at the back tends to make that condition of just beginingg to drift out the backend very hard to hit. you are either stuck like glue or as i said

facing the wrong way.

I'd say getting a feel for the car with the front one on is necessary first.

Dave

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed May 11, 05 8:04 pm

NEVER fit a rear sway bar without a front bar. No no no no no!

You will end up facing the opposite way on the road in double quick time!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed May 11, 05 8:16 pm

Thanks guys. that settles that. I used to have Vauxhall victor with a Rover v8 in it. It used to swap end pretty quickly. The builder had removed the front roll bar . I just thought it was al the power i unleashed!!

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Wed May 11, 05 10:04 pm

Miles
If you want to stiffen the chassis up, weld connectors in.
Mick

db · Post by db » Thu May 19, 05 12:09 pm

So is there any special springing in an ARB or is it feasible to make one?
I realise it would take 'a few' (ahem!) attempts to get right but speaking as someone whos car as a bit non-standard in the areas one would normally attach one, that may be the lesser of two evils?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu May 19, 05 3:23 pm

I think you will not have to worry about the steel type in any of these bars. The only two bits to worry about are diameter (thicker = stronger) and the distance of the end mount to the centerline of the bar (longer = weaker).

On my speadsheet I keep banging on about http://www.challenger440.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/maths.xls I have a formula that works out spring rates on torsion bars. There will be a way to make that work with a lever at each end of the bar instead of just one end I am sure. I will look at it tonight if I have time.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu May 19, 05 3:29 pm

I forgot to say length matters too.

And mounting location.

db · Post by db » Sat May 21, 05 9:38 am

Thanks Dave & Steve, sounds like it might be worth a try!
I know with the 4-link and big/littles it's never gonna be a circuit racer but i'd like it to behave a bit on corners!!
Is there any point trying to put one on the rear or does the 4-link make that pretty redundant?

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Sat May 21, 05 10:53 am

with the 4-link you will want a pannard rod to stop sideways movement of the axle should be no need to fit rollbar as well .