Heater unit removal, water pipe bypass?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Apr 06, 09 1:16 pm

Pete wrote: Apart from the "exit" side difference, i thought there was only one basic type. The Top is surely the same

The heater hose fittings are different sizes and placement on the ally type from the 1970(ish) iron type I seem to remember.

Might just be my bad memory.

andyrob · Post by **andyrob** » Mon Apr 06, 09 2:50 pm

Dave wrote:There used to be a cheap radiator re-core service in a lane (Back - Goldspink lane?) off Sandyford Road.

yes there was & they were bought by advanced radiators on & rich your nearest branch is bells close ind est @ lemington on 0191 2673312

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Apr 06, 09 2:51 pm

Great, cheers Andy. I'll give them a bell.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Mon Apr 06, 09 4:10 pm

in an air con car the heater matrix is switched off by a vacuum actuated tap on the inner wing

this acts on the flow to the heater matrix when you switch on the fridge bit

in such a case then the water flow through the heater is switched off and is left to cool while the aircon evaporator does its biz under the dash.

now in the hotter states i bet there are people who never switch their aircon off.

so there must be something else acting here that i don't understand

otherwise by my reckonings anyone with aircon would have a cracked block.

is an aftermarket water pump different? in Oz they are, original ones work and the aftermarket ones are crap.

(as in they just don't move water)

did original thermostats close completely ever??

I must admit i know not what i talk about

taking out the stat on a road car results in situations just as likely to crack the block, as the water moves too fast to pick up the heat and to loose the heat in the radiator, water is not a very good conductor but we are depending on it doing this job..its job is made easier by stopping it turning to steam by allowing a pressure cap to keep it in check and a thermostat to control the flow.

a head with extreme pockets of heat will crack. too fast or no flow can result in extreme pockets of heat which greately increse the pressure in the system and all ya water fizzes out into your catch can when only a small section of it is super heated

race car is a different kettleofish as it does not sit half way up a hill idling away behind a caravan for 30 miles at a time on the hottest day of the year. i.e 8- 12 second of extreme heat and power gives a uniform toastyness that would only become an issue if you went to tescos off the end of the return road ...big leccy fan anyone?? or just switch on your heater as the benefits of cooling outweigh the slight load you put on the alternator

Dave

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Apr 06, 09 4:44 pm

Ok , seems to me some think circulation around the block will still be maintained when heater matrix is blocked off.........................

There's two water ports on the inlet side of pump/impeller , one being the lower radiator hose , the other being one of the hoses off the heater matrix.

The impeller draws water up from the bottom of rad & @ the same time draws water from the heater matrix , this water goes through the impeller , which pushes the water through the block , up to the heads & back into the pump , which then circulates through the top hose (stat housing) , through the rad & back into the pump , starting the cycle over again , the same applies to the heater matrix , through the pump , into the block , up through the heads & up to the heater matrix........now , if the stat is shut the water can't circulate through the rad but in turn will circulate through the heater matrix , block this off & NO circulation can take place , you gotta ask yerself if a simple peice of hose across the heater hose outlets is worth the effort , tis a no brainer.

Take a look inside the water jacket @ the liners/cylinders , a lot more scale is visable on the cylinders where motors have been run without a bypass.

If the motor is left idleing & shut down before the stat has opened , the temp will spike higher than if circulation was maintained with a bypass , increasing scale deposits in the block/cylinders.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Apr 06, 09 4:48 pm

Can I "buy it now!" one of your kits off eBay, Brutus

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Apr 06, 09 4:53 pm

I don't think there is now any doubt that until the Stat (if fitted) opens there is no circulation.

I think the point some were raising was "does it matter?".

To me, having a "loop" sounds like a good insurance policy, even if is means that there is another small hose that could fail.

My question is "Can you buy commonly available parts that will go in the housing, or does one have to rely on getting "restoration" pipes from the 'States"?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Apr 06, 09 5:04 pm

The stock heater hose connectors will do with a short peice of hose across the fittings , i have some copper to irons & copper tube if it''ll help.

Tis the simple things in life that get overlooked.

Happy plumbing guys.

dustymopar · Post by **dustymopar** » Mon Apr 06, 09 5:13 pm

Having just looked at a stripped hosing, I am in agreement with Adam. Sure most of us get away with plugging the ports, but you are effectively blocking a parallel water passage. I guess that the coolant thru the heater matrix is at equal velocity to the rest of the cooling system, so it is significant.

I have some barbed hose end's in various sizes and will test the effect when I block the pipe with say a Brake hose clamp.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Apr 06, 09 5:48 pm

Adam, I know the stock Hose connectors will work; the point is I don't have any on 3 engines because they have all been blanked off.

I was asking about a cheap source for them, or their equivalent, without having to send off to the 'States for the pukka part.

dustymopar · Post by **dustymopar** » Mon Apr 06, 09 6:01 pm

Cheap way is to use a couple of 3/8 barb's and a bit of rubber hose.

Not so cheap way is a pair 3/8 to -8 adaptors, couple of braided hose or hardline ends

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Mon Apr 06, 09 6:15 pm

old brutus may be right but i think everyone is filling their pants unnecessarily mopar racers/streetboys have been running b/rb motors with the outlets blanked off for what 4-5 decades if its much off a problem it would have been splashed about in mopar action/all the mopar rag/s web sites everywhere from the sixties to date

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Apr 06, 09 7:56 pm

What if you have three holes drilled in your thermostat like I have?
You would get a little circulation then wouldn't you?

Just a little might be enough?

the dodge · Post by **the dodge** » Mon Apr 06, 09 8:19 pm

this is how the heater is bypassed on my engine

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Mon Apr 06, 09 8:23 pm

Slightly different with a small block as they come std with a by-pass hose, so the heater take offs can be blanked off with no issues.