Beats cutting the grass

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 15, 09 12:21 am

pete walton wrote:
Brutus wrote:
,You no what sometimes the simple things just go past me.....
Doin good Pete , you can read all you like but if you ain't hands on it means nowt.

Just keep this thread simple & maybe it will go on to a few pages , tech it up &it'll go dead in the water.

WHAT........................................

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 15, 09 1:07 am

pete walton wrote:
Brutus wrote:

He said weld a bolt on the bottom of the plate
Had a slight problem with the pistons in the 605" , the bolt would have to be around 4" long , i used a dial gauge in the centre of piston (piston rock) , checking @ 0.100" either way , you'd be surprised how much the timing marks are off on the damper/cover , had the same issue with a 440 , timing mark was off around 6*.

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Mon Jun 15, 09 11:18 am

Pete, you know by now that it takes time for the cream to rise to the top and for people to appreciate a post like this, you have to be patient mate!

This is superb stuff and I see you've got the camera sorted, pix like that really make all the difference and that degree wheel is something else, the plastic ones don't last five minutes.

I had a drilled out spark plug, which was threaded inside with a bolt and a lock nut, which I used as a piston stop and to get an exact TDC...doesn't work quite so well if you've got the heads off though.

For a 25 year old ally block, that's testament to the guys engine building skills...has it been windowed at any time?

Good stuff, I like tech...

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Jun 15, 09 1:28 pm

One thing I always do when installing a cam is to check the timing mark on the damper is correct.

I have two piston stops. One for when the heads are off and one for with the head(s) on.

For a "head off" piston stop I made a plate that bolts to two of the head bolt holes and it has an adjustable bolt through the middle to stop the piston.

"Head on" I use a stop that came with the timing wheel that screws through the spark plug hole. This one is not so good because the bolt that threads through into the cylinder goes in at an angle so you have to be careful not to bend it or allow the threads to cut into the piston top.

the dodge · Post by **the dodge** » Mon Jun 15, 09 7:55 pm

yeah that definetly beats cutting the lawn - anyday

Rogue Trooper · Post by **Rogue Trooper** » Mon Jun 15, 09 8:21 pm

Cool great read that Pete

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Mon Jun 15, 09 9:52 pm

pete walton wrote:To the left of my damper you can see my adjustable timing mark. Got it from Mancinis

Had the same on my old B1, made mine though

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Mon Jun 15, 09 10:25 pm

them is some intake ports pete

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 15, 09 10:58 pm

pete walton wrote:
Brutus wrote:
pete walton wrote: Good points Pete , the bigger the degree wheel the easier they are to use , the bog standard wheels are around 2mm per 1 degree of crank rotation , that wheel in the Pic could sit nicely on me mantlepiece ,

I was just pointing out not to rely on timing tags on aftermarket timing covers , this is why i checked it , if it was'nt out then i would'nt of botherd changing it , don't think the damper had spun on itself as it was pretty new.

Would of thought you would of pulled Dave Robo for using the piston stop through the plug hole , don't work that well especially when you got short stroker pistons & large piston to wall clearance , no probs with a hemi though.

Piece of art that engine Pete , must be great fun being part of it.

Post by **MattH** » Tue Jun 16, 09 8:48 am

Cannonball wrote:them is some intake ports pete

I was just thinking the same, huge!

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Tue Jun 16, 09 12:43 pm

what is the black ring??

rubber neoprene some kind of high temp plastic or a metal crush ring ?

heard of O ringing for use with copper gaskets before but that just seems to be a relife in both sides and some welding wire in one side to push the gasket up into the other...seemingly it works in a old skool kinda way..but thats usually on the heads and block.

Dave

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Jun 16, 09 1:54 pm

Brutus wrote:Would of thought you would of pulled Dave Robo for using the piston stop through the plug hole , don't work that well especially when you got short stroker pistons & large piston to wall clearance ,

Which is why I made the plate for when the head is off.

It is all much easier whith the heads off but sometimes (in particular on other peoples engines) you don't have any choice.
It does work though. You just have to be carefull to apply exactly the same low pressure (small torque wrench) in each direction.