Rusty tanks
Moderator: Moderators
Personally i a have welded petrol tanks (to modify them for fuel injection systems) with never a problem but I am VERY careful. First i undo the drain bolt and drain it, (i believe some cars dont have these though) take out tank, then pass air through it. I use a hoover that has a pipe connection to the air outlet port. hair drier would be ideal though. leave for an hour or two, then the best test is smell. If you can smell petrol, at ALL, then there IS petrol vapour still in it .
Finally, when there is no petrol smell inside, throw in a ball of paper that is on fire, from a distance, just to make sure.
Tanks that do not have drain bolts might be difficult to drain, so take EXTREME care.
When welding finished, bung all the pipes and put compressed air in the tank (only a few PSI) and spray water with a little washing up liquid in it over the welds , as if you were checking a tyre for puncture)
Finally, when there is no petrol smell inside, throw in a ball of paper that is on fire, from a distance, just to make sure.
Tanks that do not have drain bolts might be difficult to drain, so take EXTREME care.
When welding finished, bung all the pipes and put compressed air in the tank (only a few PSI) and spray water with a little washing up liquid in it over the welds , as if you were checking a tyre for puncture)
I just loved that really tickled me!! Brought b ack memories of pouring petrol from a petrol can onto a BBQ to help it burn and seeing a spout of flame from the can, then trying to kick the can over to put the flaming can out, only to then have flaming jeans!!throw in a ball of paper that is on fire
Luckily the quantities of beer around that made me do this also helped to put out the jeans.
Matt Hollingsworth - Vehicle Registrar
Panther Pink 73 Aussie Charger 265 Hemi 4 spd
Challenger Sam Posey Tribute car
Panther Pink 73 Aussie Charger 265 Hemi 4 spd
Challenger Sam Posey Tribute car
Don't mess about boys, come to me and I'll show you the "correct" way to breath fire. Petrol is a mugs game. Paraffin is the correct fuel, but even then it'll give you pleurisy if you ain't careful (Scratch that, even if you ARE careful
). And it creeps...... Practise atomising water from your lips (spray it outta yer closed gob) Then use a fire torch or skewer with sponge. (or Zippo if you have the technique). Hold it fairly near your mouth and as you atomise the 'fin pull the torch (etc.) away from your mouth. This can stop a nasty lung burning blow back through yer mouth. (Swilling the 'fin round yer mouth helps with the atomising bit) You are better off doing this all away and upwards until you have your technique sorted. WARNINGS: Lighting fires by this method can result in facial hair loss to your mate's great delight..... DON@T fire breath in a Motor Cycle Club House as the flames can travel down the roof apex and disappear inside a fluorescent fitting to fuse the whole electrical system....Don't practise with 'fin against a wall or when you finally do catch a fire you will set light to the wall and any climbing plants there attached. (Aaarrhhh! The good old days!)

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The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
Guy I'll get you a price on the tank today, i haven't got a price as they are mostly built to order.
Commander.. The tank sump is shaped like a wedge with the deep bit at the back, the fuel outlets are at the back and are 1/2" NPT to connect the braided line in -10.
The fuel line can then be piped with the correct sized line which depending on fuel demand should be either -10 to filter/pump, -08 under the car to the regulator and -06 to the carb, or for more fuel demand -12, -10, and -08 to carb, this means a large outlet on the tank is needed as whenever a fitting or hose end is used you should reduce the size of the line one step.
With the sump being deeper at the back on launch fuel is forced by gravity into the outlet giving the fuel pump some assistance, also the holes that are cut in the bottom of the tank are then raised at the back to make them act like a scoop.
The sump is for people who don't want to fit a cell but need more fuel
I'll check whether i can get standard tanks but i don't see why not
Commander.. The tank sump is shaped like a wedge with the deep bit at the back, the fuel outlets are at the back and are 1/2" NPT to connect the braided line in -10.
The fuel line can then be piped with the correct sized line which depending on fuel demand should be either -10 to filter/pump, -08 under the car to the regulator and -06 to the carb, or for more fuel demand -12, -10, and -08 to carb, this means a large outlet on the tank is needed as whenever a fitting or hose end is used you should reduce the size of the line one step.
With the sump being deeper at the back on launch fuel is forced by gravity into the outlet giving the fuel pump some assistance, also the holes that are cut in the bottom of the tank are then raised at the back to make them act like a scoop.
The sump is for people who don't want to fit a cell but need more fuel
I'll check whether i can get standard tanks but i don't see why not