Its getting a bit warm in here!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 12, 05 9:16 am

Calvers.

First. take that electric water pump off, you said it was rated for up to 5 litres so even if it's the best thing since sliced bread it shouldn't be on a 383 and you're just relying on some guy saying it "should" be ok.

Then check the trans oil properly and don't forget if the level is ok running and in nuetral it doesn't matter where the cooler is or how big it is

The words Mopar.. Electric waterpump.. and street car.. don't go together
even if the pump is doing it's job you only need an electrical problem and it's cooking.

If it was ok before then think what you've fitted, 1. electric water pump.
2. ally rad and thats just what i know. Did you fit the pertronics ignition and if so is the timing right??

And back to the pump, i've seen it, and to me it looks Mickey Mouse, it's buried in the bottom hose for one, it's electric for 2 and the outlet is tiny
for 3.

you could have a trans problem, Duncs the man to talk to on that, but swap in the stock water pump whatever you do, which is designed to circulate the correct amount of water for the amount of fuel and O2 you're burning depending on revs.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Sun Jun 12, 05 11:37 am

Oh, word up Wil, this is what i,ve been trying to get across since this started.
Use parts tried and tested,
You Dont use a halfords multi colour rev counter in your race car, the same dont use a mickey mouse electric pump in your street car that nobody else uses, there is a reason nobody is using em.
Yes sure someones got to give it a go, but the guy who sold you it doesnt know. so take it out and get your money back, ( IT SHOULD BE OK)
Well its not, so money back please.... you have to decide where this started and back-up to there and rectify

I dont use a Ali rad in my car, I have a Truck core with 10 or 12 fins per inch, fitted to an original Mopar Header and bottom Tank.
County Radiators in Chaulden, Hemel Hempstead, ?185 more cooling than I thought possible.
Guy races cars and knows his stuff.
When your floggong a dead horse you still have to know when to stop.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 12, 05 12:35 pm

Okay, I did what everyone said. Took everything I fitted off, refitted the water pump and mechanical fan, ran the car to temperature, left it idling for a bit and took it for a test drive. Gears all over the shop and 210f. So its not the fan and its not the pump.

Jon · Post by **Jon** » Sun Jun 12, 05 1:00 pm

If its OK till you start driving it could be leaning out or the timing may be set wrong
regarding the gearbox, whats your fluid like? is it burnt? mine looked red on the dipstick but its as brown as a botlle of HP sauce now I've pulled it out and had a proper look.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 12, 05 2:34 pm

Ah, we are getting somewhere. Mine is equally HP like, I didn't even know that it was meant to be red! What should I be putting in the box by the way? I think you are meant to use a specific oil for a unit this old?

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Sun Jun 12, 05 2:53 pm

Any auto fluid will do, it should be translucent cherry red, if it's seriously brown it's in need of some TLC. I'm gonna vote on sludge in the block as being the cause of the overheating - I've had serious problems with it in the little 2.2, the radiator, heater matrix and some pipework was all blocked solid, and I know there's plenty still in the block!

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Sun Jun 12, 05 4:12 pm

quick check
Drive it a bit, pull a few plugs and look at them if they are very pale or white its lean. Black is the opposite obviously, Tan is good. black and tan wont cause the overheating prob.

Jon · Post by **Jon** » Sun Jun 12, 05 8:00 pm

Sounds like you've got gearbox problems then, I'd give Dunc a call about that, if its slipping badly that could cause the engine to overheat, check the timing and mixture as well though, Dave has posted some excellent guides on doing this on this messageboard

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 13, 05 4:52 pm

Plugs look fine all killer, but thanks for the tip. Er, I think the box was probably missing a drip or two of oil! Okay, I basically hitched the Exxon Valdize to it and had to keep opening the doors to make sure the car wasn't filling up!

I haven't taken it for a test drive yet, but I'm pretty sure that the almost complete abscence of slippery stuff more than likely explains the problem. I just hope that there has been no lasting damage done, I guess I won't know until I get it out on the road, but fingers crossed. I think that will hopefully put an end to this epic five page thread, thought i will doubtlessly be starting one in the transmision section later this week entitled "help, I've boiled my gearbox!".

I know a lot of people have gotten frustrated with me on this one, but as I was explaining to Neil on the weekend, there is a certain pressure to road test new products and methods of doing things, hence why I hung on in there. It will be going back to the electric system just for a bit, though the pump will ultimately be consigned to the bin, or just left on there so I can use it in isolation from a remote switch to cool the car after a long run alongside the electric fan, which is definately staying. Unfortunately this means a bit of remodeling of the bonnet latch support, seeing as how the sodding thing is so big, but I do know a man with a welder!

Thanks for everyone's help. Once I have got this piece written up, the interior article finished, the gauges installed, Neil's Demon Carb stuffed on top, and the shiny chrome bits slung into the engine bay, the pressure is off to do things. This means I can slow down and tackle jobs at a slightly more sensible pace.......so that means the airbags, roof chop, 1200w stero and underfloor lighting are just going to have to wait