Looking to upgrade from drum to disc brakes on the front of my charger. Need to know the best place to get the kit from though? or the best kit to buy.
My charger is a 1968 with manual drums all round and 15 inch wolfrace wheels.
All help appreciated
TIA
Drum to disc conversion info needed
Moderator: Moderators
Drum to disc conversion info needed
'68 Dodge Charger
‘75 Ford Ranchero
'93 Toyota Hilux Surf
YouTube - Double Zero Garage
‘75 Ford Ranchero
'93 Toyota Hilux Surf
YouTube - Double Zero Garage
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Gringo
Scroll down to Glen68 conversion. Works a treat... http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=25804
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Anonymous
Hi Nige.
This is the kit I got.
Part no. 6374CBK-S
http://www.classicperform.com/NewProduc ... e_Kits.htm
I got mine cheaper than on that website because I bought it ages ago through a shop on ebay.
Mine had the same stock drum brakes all round as yours will and with a bit of work to get the old stuff off I mangaed the whole job in a weekend pretty much. Car stops now and everything(!)
Hope this helps.
This is the kit I got.
Part no. 6374CBK-S
http://www.classicperform.com/NewProduc ... e_Kits.htm
I got mine cheaper than on that website because I bought it ages ago through a shop on ebay.
Mine had the same stock drum brakes all round as yours will and with a bit of work to get the old stuff off I mangaed the whole job in a weekend pretty much. Car stops now and everything(!)
Hope this helps.
WILL LOOK INTO IT. 
Glen and Anton both overcame the fact that the landcruiser calipers are for a smaller metric disc by different methods
Glen used caliper mounts and so did Anton but Anton also made changes to the shape of the pads
now thats fine and dandy and you keep the biggest swept area of disk in the shadow of the pads
and at the MOPAR designed distance from the spindle.
but there may be options for simplifing the process just i know not what the mounting centres are for a B body disk spindle
any way
the turning force the caliper deals with, is a function of the distance from the spindle it works at and the size of the wheel and tyre.
i.e brakes designed for a 14 inch wheel with 195 65s on it are not going to work well on a 28 inch wheel with 195 65s on it you have doubled the turning force the caliper has to deal with so it would take twice as long to stop (in very simplistic terms obviously its harder to make a big wheel lock so you can hit the brakes harder so i'm talking rubbish but you get the gist)
however I believe without the additions from Glen and Anton
you can if you have access to a big enough lathe and a sharp enough tool
turn the disks down to a size that allows you to bolt the caliper to the original mount. Obviously check this first with no disk on as i have no proof yet of mount matching up on b bod
it definitely works on A body disk spindles and Aussie spindles
now the 5mm in diameter that you loose is more than made up for by the 4 pot calipers longer better supported pad and the fact that the landcruiser caliper was designed to work on a 14 or 15 inch wheel with a way taller tyre than you would use on ya Mopar.
it was also designed to stop what appears to be a moderately heavy vehicle but will by old cars standards be heavier than it looks (just the wiring in a modern car is like having an extra passenger add to that all the trim aircon and electric windows and you have a big pie scoffing passenger ) and in hilux pickup form expected to carry 1/2 a tonne in the back
extra bits to overcome
the mounting on the landcruiser caliper is metric and your caliper bolts are special shanked imperial sized
10mm copper pipe press fits in to take up the slack
the brake pipe connector is metric and your mopar is not, new pipes with the correct banjo bolt for the banjo fitting or direct tapered fit metric endy bit necessary
you should try the caliper on a new disk to see if the slot is wide enough some inexplicably are and some are not based on different manufacture's disk.... or of course if yours are worn.
(IMO you should aim for an install where you could buy some pads and fit without having to resort to buggering about)
if not caliper apart and use the edge of a cutting disk (with saftey specs on) to clearance approx 1-2 mm. cutting disks are not suppoed to be used like this but seem to be quicker
They are NISSIN calipers i believe after discussions with Anton at the NATS
as such they are used on many Jap cars Hilux 4 runner and landcruiser + some nissan
and form the basis of many copies
i believe one of the wilwood kits uses the same pads
this means there is a huge range of street and race pads available
Pads from different manufacturers have different inner radius
some have small horns that are designed to dig into the hub centre when the pads are worn to make a massive squeal
grind them off unless you need the i never check my brakes warning way too early in the pads life as the hub diameter is of course not the metric size of the original. not all have them.
some pads are massively thick again no idea why possibly some wider versions of the caliper out there
65 series cruiser calipers have big and little pots
75 series have 4 big pots and a finger like design of the cooling fins
75 series are the way to go
masiy4quads is a name off ebay who always sells 75 series calipers
has punted up a set per month for the last year
or if the mount is the same
later again
but can't confirm wheel fitment 14 inch wheels or mounting centres for the later caliper
offset should be about right and there should be no need to space the caliper off the spindle mount unless you have an array of hardend steel washers split pins and lock tabs and want to experiment
PS you local Toyota dealer should have rebuild kits and pads on the shelf
Halfrauds can order in
for 75 series landcrusier/Hilux/4Runner quote K reg or '96
Dave
Glen used caliper mounts and so did Anton but Anton also made changes to the shape of the pads
now thats fine and dandy and you keep the biggest swept area of disk in the shadow of the pads
and at the MOPAR designed distance from the spindle.
but there may be options for simplifing the process just i know not what the mounting centres are for a B body disk spindle
any way
the turning force the caliper deals with, is a function of the distance from the spindle it works at and the size of the wheel and tyre.
i.e brakes designed for a 14 inch wheel with 195 65s on it are not going to work well on a 28 inch wheel with 195 65s on it you have doubled the turning force the caliper has to deal with so it would take twice as long to stop (in very simplistic terms obviously its harder to make a big wheel lock so you can hit the brakes harder so i'm talking rubbish but you get the gist)
however I believe without the additions from Glen and Anton
you can if you have access to a big enough lathe and a sharp enough tool
turn the disks down to a size that allows you to bolt the caliper to the original mount. Obviously check this first with no disk on as i have no proof yet of mount matching up on b bod
it definitely works on A body disk spindles and Aussie spindles
now the 5mm in diameter that you loose is more than made up for by the 4 pot calipers longer better supported pad and the fact that the landcruiser caliper was designed to work on a 14 or 15 inch wheel with a way taller tyre than you would use on ya Mopar.
it was also designed to stop what appears to be a moderately heavy vehicle but will by old cars standards be heavier than it looks (just the wiring in a modern car is like having an extra passenger add to that all the trim aircon and electric windows and you have a big pie scoffing passenger ) and in hilux pickup form expected to carry 1/2 a tonne in the back
extra bits to overcome
the mounting on the landcruiser caliper is metric and your caliper bolts are special shanked imperial sized
10mm copper pipe press fits in to take up the slack
the brake pipe connector is metric and your mopar is not, new pipes with the correct banjo bolt for the banjo fitting or direct tapered fit metric endy bit necessary
you should try the caliper on a new disk to see if the slot is wide enough some inexplicably are and some are not based on different manufacture's disk.... or of course if yours are worn.
(IMO you should aim for an install where you could buy some pads and fit without having to resort to buggering about)
if not caliper apart and use the edge of a cutting disk (with saftey specs on) to clearance approx 1-2 mm. cutting disks are not suppoed to be used like this but seem to be quicker
They are NISSIN calipers i believe after discussions with Anton at the NATS
as such they are used on many Jap cars Hilux 4 runner and landcruiser + some nissan
and form the basis of many copies
i believe one of the wilwood kits uses the same pads
this means there is a huge range of street and race pads available
Pads from different manufacturers have different inner radius
some have small horns that are designed to dig into the hub centre when the pads are worn to make a massive squeal
grind them off unless you need the i never check my brakes warning way too early in the pads life as the hub diameter is of course not the metric size of the original. not all have them.
some pads are massively thick again no idea why possibly some wider versions of the caliper out there
65 series cruiser calipers have big and little pots
75 series have 4 big pots and a finger like design of the cooling fins
75 series are the way to go
masiy4quads is a name off ebay who always sells 75 series calipers
has punted up a set per month for the last year
or if the mount is the same
later again
but can't confirm wheel fitment 14 inch wheels or mounting centres for the later caliper
offset should be about right and there should be no need to space the caliper off the spindle mount unless you have an array of hardend steel washers split pins and lock tabs and want to experiment
PS you local Toyota dealer should have rebuild kits and pads on the shelf
Halfrauds can order in
for 75 series landcrusier/Hilux/4Runner quote K reg or '96
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
PS just read through Glens and Antons again
looks like the hub centre on a B body is bigger than an A
hence caliper mounts probably necessary
Aussie spindles an option
everything had disk from 69 onwards
but you'd want 71-76
disk range from solid to cross drilled vented expensive
Dave
looks like the hub centre on a B body is bigger than an A
hence caliper mounts probably necessary
Aussie spindles an option
everything had disk from 69 onwards
but you'd want 71-76
disk range from solid to cross drilled vented expensive
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Anonymous
well thats what i'm getting at
no probs on the aussie
disk offset
hub centre
mounting all ok
just the disk thickness and diameter
thickness is sorted with a minor grind on the sides of the slot at either end and frankly you would probably pull a breakers yard caliper apart before risking it anyway....
you could get spacer plates for the caliper made up and just o ringing both sides of the spscer. i.e make the thing wider....it would be a fiddle though more places to leek. no gasket in there just some rubber rings
diameter involves taking your aussie disk down to approx toyota size its a 3- 5mm cut off the edge depending on year i.e you take off the rusty crusty lip on the disk
But for the B body which i believe is your aim
looks like ya hub centres are bigger going on Anton and Glens work
so you need to get adaptors for the Toyota calipesr to space them out above the mount a bit
but if you do that too far the arc of the caliper and pads is wrong for the disk.
if you cut ya disk down the inner arc of the caliper and pads looks like it will grind the hub centre. pads not an issue but not sure how much grinding you could do on the caliper to avoid it. i know some guys who took the angle grinder to the backs of the calipers to fit wheels with strange offset and it had no detrimental effect. you could probably run the things up and down on the bench grinder and not hit brake fluid but i'd be doing it with the caliper apart to see where the passages go
hubs get hot and expand more than you'd think
the main draw on the A body cars in aus is the caliper offset is spot on and the mounting bolt centres are the same between Aussie 1 pot slider Girlock style calipers and these 4 pot toyota Nissin jobbies
you couldn't have planned it better
i've only gone as far as mocking it all up on my car on one side when i had a caliper off
mine has the same brakes as your aussie i found what i had was reasonable. so the toyota calipers will wait for the next time it fails on something. i.e the brake flexis..... may as well get new mopar to toyota ones then.
Dave
no probs on the aussie
disk offset
hub centre
mounting all ok
just the disk thickness and diameter
thickness is sorted with a minor grind on the sides of the slot at either end and frankly you would probably pull a breakers yard caliper apart before risking it anyway....
you could get spacer plates for the caliper made up and just o ringing both sides of the spscer. i.e make the thing wider....it would be a fiddle though more places to leek. no gasket in there just some rubber rings
diameter involves taking your aussie disk down to approx toyota size its a 3- 5mm cut off the edge depending on year i.e you take off the rusty crusty lip on the disk
But for the B body which i believe is your aim
looks like ya hub centres are bigger going on Anton and Glens work
so you need to get adaptors for the Toyota calipesr to space them out above the mount a bit
but if you do that too far the arc of the caliper and pads is wrong for the disk.
if you cut ya disk down the inner arc of the caliper and pads looks like it will grind the hub centre. pads not an issue but not sure how much grinding you could do on the caliper to avoid it. i know some guys who took the angle grinder to the backs of the calipers to fit wheels with strange offset and it had no detrimental effect. you could probably run the things up and down on the bench grinder and not hit brake fluid but i'd be doing it with the caliper apart to see where the passages go
hubs get hot and expand more than you'd think
the main draw on the A body cars in aus is the caliper offset is spot on and the mounting bolt centres are the same between Aussie 1 pot slider Girlock style calipers and these 4 pot toyota Nissin jobbies
you couldn't have planned it better
i've only gone as far as mocking it all up on my car on one side when i had a caliper off
mine has the same brakes as your aussie i found what i had was reasonable. so the toyota calipers will wait for the next time it fails on something. i.e the brake flexis..... may as well get new mopar to toyota ones then.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying