What Street/ Strip Tyres and where to get them

John · Post by **John** » Sat Oct 24, 09 11:50 pm

Looking to get a pair of the above for the rear as the grip is just pants.

Only really take the car out in the dry (unless get caught out) and dont really want a second set just for the strip as I will only be doing a few runs each year.

Also price differences would be helpfull too

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Oct 25, 09 9:17 am

The drag type treaded tyres do not work well in anything other than a straight line and will need replacing every year if you do any kind of mileage.

How much of this problem is down to a crap chassis and suspension set-up? Weight bias? Spring rates?

John · Post by **John** » Sun Oct 25, 09 10:21 am

God Dave, havent a clue

Just know that the BF`s are labelled M + S which is mud and snow if Im not mistaken and as Im not (hopefully) going to be out in either dont believe them to be what I really want for the odd drag run?
Im a pure novice when it comes to set up etc,,,,, Well, just about everything really and just wanted a better (grippier) type of rubber at the rear.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Oct 25, 09 11:20 am

You might want to say what size tyres you need because the size may limit what makes are available. For example there are not many people making the 295/50/15s that I use.

John · Post by **John** » Sun Oct 25, 09 11:37 am

The tyres on at the moment are 275 60 15

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Sun Oct 25, 09 11:55 am

I've tried a few drag radials, all 275 60 15.
Nitto NT555R are a great street tyre and are good in the wet. Problem is they didn't work for me on the strip.
BFG G-Force drag radials didn't work on the strip until they were half worn out. They got better and better the less tread left. They were on the car all this year and I used it for work most days whatever the weather.
I've just fitted MT ET Street Radials. I ran them at SCR with only 30 miles on them and they worked really well. They can only get better as the tread wears down.
I used to use Cooper Cobras but they are just dangerous in the wet, no grip at all. I feel safer with the drag radials on the car and I've noticed no difference in the handling.
One thing worth pointing out is the BFG tyres are about an inch wider than the others at the tyre bulge. I had some clearance problems using them with ten inch wheels. No clearance problems with the ET Streets or Nitto's.

John · Post by **John** » Sun Oct 25, 09 12:11 pm

Thanks Mick most helpful info,

Sounds like the MT`s could be a good choice for me also.

Can I ask where to get them from and approx how much they are?

Also, as I have BFG`s on at the mo, would you think I could I go up to 285`s (if they do them) on the MT`s?

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sun Oct 25, 09 12:23 pm

Surely it all depends on your car/weight/gear/power adders/combo? What you got and what times are you running now>?

John · Post by **John** » Sun Oct 25, 09 12:28 pm

Kev,

The cars a 69 Sattie with a built 383, 8 3/4 suregrip with 3:91 gears. Ive only had it a very brief while and managed to totally cock up the 1 and only run Ive done in the car at SCR.

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sun Oct 25, 09 12:31 pm

Mick's advice is all you need then

And he runs the numbers

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Sun Oct 25, 09 12:54 pm

JohnS wrote:Thanks Mick most helpful info,

Sounds like the MT`s could be a good choice for me also.

Can I ask where to get them from and approx how much they are?

Also, as I have BFG`s on at the mo, would you think I could I go up to 285`s (if they do them) on the MT`s?

John, it's the BFG G-Force that are wider, other BFG radials may not be.
The ET Street Radials are generally regarded as the best for the track but I doubt if they are much good in the wet by just looking at the tread. Mind you, they can't be worse than Coopers.
I've been shipping them in from Summit but it's costing too much, at least £500 a pair and they barely last a season. The next pair will be shipped by boat in a container full of other rodding parts, should keep the cost down.

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Sun Oct 25, 09 12:59 pm

Kev wrote:Mick's advice is all you need then And he runs the numbers

yes he does but through hp and torque once the car is rolling not through the car hooking up,his 60ft is crap in my opinion its a totally pointless exercise running anything on a car up the drag strip other than a slick, the street eliminator boys are a different ball game their cars/chassis are set up to shock the tire in to action,

wake up smell the coffee keep your street tires and buy slicks for the track the end off,

John · Post by **John** » Sun Oct 25, 09 1:00 pm

Cheers Mick,

Such a shame they can`t be bought here, perhaps they can? but I guess that would be at a price

Mind you, £500 pound a pair from the States is a few bob in itself.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Sun Oct 25, 09 1:24 pm

Cannonball wrote:
Kev wrote:Mick's advice is all you need then And he runs the numbers
yes he does but through hp and torque once the car is rolling not through the car hooking up,his 60ft is crap in my opinion its a totally pointless exercise running anything on a car up the drag strip other than a slick, the street eliminator boys are a different ball game their cars/chassis are set up to shock the tire in to action,

wake up smell the coffee keep your street tires and buy slicks for the track the end off,

Dunc, my 60 foot came down almost 1.5 tenths with drag radials compared to Coopers. There's plenty of similar cars on here running slicks with 60 foot times no better than mine.
There's just no choice of 15" street tyres for these cars. Their all designed to last 50000 miles and they are scary in the wet. If there was a grippy street tyre I'd use it.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Oct 25, 09 1:32 pm

Cannonball wrote:
yes he does but through hp and torque once the car is rolling not through the car hooking up,his 60ft is crap in my opinion its a totally pointless exercise running anything on a car up the drag strip other than a slick, the street eliminator boys are a different ball game their cars/chassis are set up to shock the tire in to action,

wake up smell the coffee keep your street tires and buy slicks for the track the end off,

Spot on Dunc

Slicks tend to bust up parts if the car is'nt specced right , can also loose ETs due to bogging off the line if the motor is'nt up to it.

I think in Micks case he's worried about busting parts up , that motor will certainly haul arse if he fitted slicks.