I'm still struggling with the new coil as the wiring diagram I have for the original loom is significantly different to whats in there. It seems the previous owner had a passion for cutting and refixing wires in no particular order and with little regard for the correct colour coding!
The story so far is that I need to remove the ballast resitor as the new coil has one built in. Mark at Pertronix said that I needed to remove the resistor completely, but I have noticed that other devices are also connected to it. Would I be right in saying that I just need to remove the coil positive wire from the resistor and connect it to and ignition supply?
Secondly Skippy, who kindly replied to my last post said that he only had one wire on either side of the coil. The satellite has two wires coming from each side it's resistor.
Having unwrapped the bundle of wires (and discovered some that managed to be three different colours along their length with dodgy taped up joins!!) I have traced everything back and seem to have the following.
1/ On one side of the resistor I have a wire leading to the positve terminal of the coil and another which disapears into the loom and (allegedly, according to the diagram) connects to 'Q' on the bulkhead connector.
2/ On the other side I have one wire that is attached to a bodged join consisting of three other wires, two of which disapear into the loom, the other is connected to the right hand side terminal of a box the size of a packet of fags which is bolted to the bulkhead next to the right hand side of the alternator regulator. The other wire connects to the adjacent alternator regulator. The regulator has three other wires attached to it, one leading to the negative terminal of the coil and the other two leading to the distributor. The alternator FLD cable seems to be coming from somewhere else on the loom rather than from the regulator.
Does anyone have any suggestions, or the number of a good auto electrician in surrey (preferably woking/guildford area) who can rip it all out and start again?
PS Maybe this little fiasco explains why my coil has started making buzzing 'I'm about to blow up' noises with the ignition on?!!!!
Pertronix Coil.....again!!
Moderator: Moderators
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 6:27 pm Post subject: Pertronix Coil.....again!!
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I'm still struggling with the new coil as the wiring diagram I have for the original loom is significantly different to whats in there. It seems the previous owner had a passion for cutting and refixing wires in no particular order and with little regard for the correct colour coding!
The story so far is that I need to remove the ballast resitor as the new coil has one built in. Mark at Pertronix said that I needed to remove the resistor completely, but I have noticed that other devices are also connected to it. Would I be right in saying that I just need to remove the coil positive wire from the resistor and connect it to and ignition supply?
Secondly Skippy, who kindly replied to my last post said that he only had one wire on either side of the coil. The satellite has two wires coming from each side it's resistor.
Having unwrapped the bundle of wires (and discovered some that managed to be three different colours along their length with dodgy taped up joins!!) I have traced everything back and seem to have the following.
1/ On one side of the resistor I have a wire leading to the positve terminal of the coil and another which disapears into the loom and (allegedly, according to the diagram) connects to 'Q' on the bulkhead connector.
the other wire (brown) should supply 12v on crank to bypass the resistor to let the coil get full voltage for starting.
2/ On the other side I have one wire that is attached to a bodged join consisting of three other wires, two of which disapear into the loom, the other is connected to the right hand side terminal of a box the size of a packet of fags which is bolted to the bulkhead next to the right hand side of the alternator regulator. The other wire connects to the adjacent alternator regulator. The regulator has three other wires attached to it, one leading to the negative terminal of the coil and the other two leading to the distributor. The alternator FLD cable seems to be coming from somewhere else on the loom rather than from the regulator.
This lot is messed up! there should be one wire that supplies 12v when the ign is on on this terminal of the ballast (blue, comes from the reg). The fag packet thing I am unsure of without seeing a pic! The neg side of the coil should be supplied a switched ground by the points if it is still running them at the moment.
the rest is a mystery, can you take some pics, I could work it out better from that but the reg should have two wires on the ign side, one to the ballast as above and the other from the buljead connector which ends up at the ign switch, the other side of the reg (fld) should have one (dk green) wire that goes back to the alternator.
Above is from memory but as I said I can help more with a pic or two of the offending items LOL
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I'm still struggling with the new coil as the wiring diagram I have for the original loom is significantly different to whats in there. It seems the previous owner had a passion for cutting and refixing wires in no particular order and with little regard for the correct colour coding!
The story so far is that I need to remove the ballast resitor as the new coil has one built in. Mark at Pertronix said that I needed to remove the resistor completely, but I have noticed that other devices are also connected to it. Would I be right in saying that I just need to remove the coil positive wire from the resistor and connect it to and ignition supply?
Secondly Skippy, who kindly replied to my last post said that he only had one wire on either side of the coil. The satellite has two wires coming from each side it's resistor.
Having unwrapped the bundle of wires (and discovered some that managed to be three different colours along their length with dodgy taped up joins!!) I have traced everything back and seem to have the following.
1/ On one side of the resistor I have a wire leading to the positve terminal of the coil and another which disapears into the loom and (allegedly, according to the diagram) connects to 'Q' on the bulkhead connector.
the other wire (brown) should supply 12v on crank to bypass the resistor to let the coil get full voltage for starting.
2/ On the other side I have one wire that is attached to a bodged join consisting of three other wires, two of which disapear into the loom, the other is connected to the right hand side terminal of a box the size of a packet of fags which is bolted to the bulkhead next to the right hand side of the alternator regulator. The other wire connects to the adjacent alternator regulator. The regulator has three other wires attached to it, one leading to the negative terminal of the coil and the other two leading to the distributor. The alternator FLD cable seems to be coming from somewhere else on the loom rather than from the regulator.
This lot is messed up! there should be one wire that supplies 12v when the ign is on on this terminal of the ballast (blue, comes from the reg). The fag packet thing I am unsure of without seeing a pic! The neg side of the coil should be supplied a switched ground by the points if it is still running them at the moment.
the rest is a mystery, can you take some pics, I could work it out better from that but the reg should have two wires on the ign side, one to the ballast as above and the other from the buljead connector which ends up at the ign switch, the other side of the reg (fld) should have one (dk green) wire that goes back to the alternator.
Above is from memory but as I said I can help more with a pic or two of the offending items LOL
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Anonymous
I was just talking to Wil about getting a completely new loom or talking to Dunc to see if he had one. I did get a quote from my local 'specialist' to rewire the bay for ?1,500 + VAT!!!!!! Given my house cost less to rewire than that, I think I could just be buying ten reels of the right coloured wires and gradually replacing everything that is in the right place and then working back all the duff connections. Anyone know what gauge of wire I need under the hood?
Also, with the bulhead connectors how do I get the terminals out without damaging the plastic? Or do I need to get hold of new blocks?
Also, with the bulhead connectors how do I get the terminals out without damaging the plastic? Or do I need to get hold of new blocks?
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Anonymous
Calv the wiring diagram tells you what gauge wire everyone is, the number before the colour is the gauge. ie 14dbl is 14 gauge dark blue
the terminals in the blocks will have little tangs on them to hold them in the block, just need something thin to poke around a little and they will come out, this also means you can't use just the normal terminal in a block, they have to be the right one with the tang.
But saying all that it's easier to get either a good secondhand one or a new one
the terminals in the blocks will have little tangs on them to hold them in the block, just need something thin to poke around a little and they will come out, this also means you can't use just the normal terminal in a block, they have to be the right one with the tang.
But saying all that it's easier to get either a good secondhand one or a new one
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Anonymous
Cheers Neil, I kinda guessed the numeric prefix was the gauge, but I've done a lot of assuming recently!!!!!!
I have had a look on the Year One site for a new loom (not unreasonable at $133), but they have a few variants. The one I was looking at was "modified for electronic ignition", not a problem as I still have an Ignitor I need to fix up, but it also said that the loom is only compatible with "post 1970 electronic voltage regulators". What is it, where is it, do I have one, if not where can I get one?!!
I have had a look on the Year One site for a new loom (not unreasonable at $133), but they have a few variants. The one I was looking at was "modified for electronic ignition", not a problem as I still have an Ignitor I need to fix up, but it also said that the loom is only compatible with "post 1970 electronic voltage regulators". What is it, where is it, do I have one, if not where can I get one?!!
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Anonymous
if you had points then the odds are you aint got an electronic reg
it's the box near the ballast, ought to have a green one side and blue/ brown the other. It's on the wiring diagram around centre right and a bit lower than the middle, if that waffle means anything
I've got the post 70 regulator coming from the states next week, i know not very usefull if they aren't here sorry, but you'd get that anyway while getting the harness
it's the box near the ballast, ought to have a green one side and blue/ brown the other. It's on the wiring diagram around centre right and a bit lower than the middle, if that waffle means anything
I've got the post 70 regulator coming from the states next week, i know not very usefull if they aren't here sorry, but you'd get that anyway while getting the harness
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Sorry about the angle, I had rotated it, but seems to appear like this when I post it. Anyhoo....
So, lets start with the ballast resistor: On the left, the upper dark blue wire leads to that 'Big Mystery Tangle' of uninsulated wire, henceforth refered to as the 'BMT' (follow the red wire from the top right corner of the picture, where it ends is said dodgy connection). The lower dark blue wire connects to the control unit and must correspond to the J2A wire on the factory wiring diagram, which actually shows two wires going from the control unit to the ballast for Satellites. On the other side, the brown wire leads to bulkhead connector 'Q' (which is correct) and the other, which starts out as dark blue, goes to the positive side of the coil (also correct).
The control unit has three wires other than the one going to the ballast. One goes to the negative side of the coil and looks yellow with a black tracer (?!!!). The other two, which are posssibly originally grey/white and brown, go to the distributor (its got an electronic ignition of unknown make in it already). According to the diagram there should be four connections to the control unit; three dark blue (J2A x 2 and J2) on the ignition side, and one dark green from the FLD side. However, mine looks like there are actually five, one of which has been cut off flush with the plug.
The other box next to the control unit, the one with two wires coming out of it, has a dark green cable going to the horn relay (connector marked 'S' on the box, and 'G' on the diagram), the other joins up with the dreaded 'BMT'! Speaking of which, there two final connections to the 'BMT'; one is cable J2 (dark blue) which comes from bulkhead connector 'N' (according to the diagram, this should connect to the control unit), the other is the FLD side of the alternator. The Bat side is correctly connected via a black 12 gauge wire to bulkhead connector 'P'
Sorry this is so long winded, but it could be worse. I've traced every single cable and, whilst some need replacing due to the amount of connections and colours used, they are in the right place and of the correct gauge. The lines for the sensors and washer pump have circumnavigated the bulkhead connector, which I'll also rectify at some point, but they are wired correctly. I will eventually get some spools of cable and set about sorting this whole lot out.
If anyone can help me figure out how the electronic dizzy has effected the stock wiring, and where everything connected to the 'Big Mystery Tangle' should be, I'd be very grateful. If I only had a wiring diagram for the connectors in the control unit I'd be a fw steps forward.
Thanks in advance
So, lets start with the ballast resistor: On the left, the upper dark blue wire leads to that 'Big Mystery Tangle' of uninsulated wire, henceforth refered to as the 'BMT' (follow the red wire from the top right corner of the picture, where it ends is said dodgy connection). The lower dark blue wire connects to the control unit and must correspond to the J2A wire on the factory wiring diagram, which actually shows two wires going from the control unit to the ballast for Satellites. On the other side, the brown wire leads to bulkhead connector 'Q' (which is correct) and the other, which starts out as dark blue, goes to the positive side of the coil (also correct).
The control unit has three wires other than the one going to the ballast. One goes to the negative side of the coil and looks yellow with a black tracer (?!!!). The other two, which are posssibly originally grey/white and brown, go to the distributor (its got an electronic ignition of unknown make in it already). According to the diagram there should be four connections to the control unit; three dark blue (J2A x 2 and J2) on the ignition side, and one dark green from the FLD side. However, mine looks like there are actually five, one of which has been cut off flush with the plug.
The other box next to the control unit, the one with two wires coming out of it, has a dark green cable going to the horn relay (connector marked 'S' on the box, and 'G' on the diagram), the other joins up with the dreaded 'BMT'! Speaking of which, there two final connections to the 'BMT'; one is cable J2 (dark blue) which comes from bulkhead connector 'N' (according to the diagram, this should connect to the control unit), the other is the FLD side of the alternator. The Bat side is correctly connected via a black 12 gauge wire to bulkhead connector 'P'
Sorry this is so long winded, but it could be worse. I've traced every single cable and, whilst some need replacing due to the amount of connections and colours used, they are in the right place and of the correct gauge. The lines for the sensors and washer pump have circumnavigated the bulkhead connector, which I'll also rectify at some point, but they are wired correctly. I will eventually get some spools of cable and set about sorting this whole lot out.
If anyone can help me figure out how the electronic dizzy has effected the stock wiring, and where everything connected to the 'Big Mystery Tangle' should be, I'd be very grateful. If I only had a wiring diagram for the connectors in the control unit I'd be a fw steps forward.
Thanks in advance
So, lets start with the ballast resistor: On the left, the upper dark blue wire leads to that 'Big Mystery Tangle' of uninsulated wire, henceforth refered to as the 'BMT' (follow the red wire from the top right corner of the picture, where it ends is said dodgy connection).
The BMT is in fact the original factory splice for the three wires (or was/should be!) one for the ign supply to the ballast, one from the reg, one to the bulkhead
The lower dark blue wire connects to the control unit and must correspond to the J2A wire on the factory wiring diagram, which actually shows two wires going from the control unit to the ballast for Satellites. On the other side, the brown wire leads to bulkhead connector 'Q' (which is correct) and the other, which starts out as dark blue, goes to the positive side of the coil (also correct).
The brown is the hot wire during cranking to supply 12v to the coil. the blue is the ballasted run wire to the coil.
The control unit has three wires other than the one going to the ballast. One goes to the negative side of the coil and looks yellow with a black tracer (?!!!). The other two, which are posssibly originally grey/white and brown, go to the distributor (its got an electronic ignition of unknown make in it already). According to the diagram there should be four connections to the control unit; three dark blue (J2A x 2 and J2) on the ignition side, and one dark green from the FLD side. However, mine looks like there are actually five, one of which has been cut off flush with the plug.
This is the control unit for the ignition NOT the voltage reg !
The other box next to the control unit, the one with two wires coming out of it, has a dark green cable going to the horn relay (connector marked 'S' on the box, and 'G' on the diagram), the other joins up with the dreaded 'BMT'! Speaking of which, there two final connections to the 'BMT'; one is cable J2 (dark blue) which comes from bulkhead connector 'N' (according to the diagram, this should connect to the control unit), the other is the FLD side of the alternator. The Bat side is correctly connected via a black 12 gauge wire to bulkhead connector 'P'
Re check this, the green should be the field wire from the alt and the blue should go to the 'BMT'
Keeping up? LOL I wish I was closer I could sort that lot in an hour !
The BMT is in fact the original factory splice for the three wires (or was/should be!) one for the ign supply to the ballast, one from the reg, one to the bulkhead
The lower dark blue wire connects to the control unit and must correspond to the J2A wire on the factory wiring diagram, which actually shows two wires going from the control unit to the ballast for Satellites. On the other side, the brown wire leads to bulkhead connector 'Q' (which is correct) and the other, which starts out as dark blue, goes to the positive side of the coil (also correct).
The brown is the hot wire during cranking to supply 12v to the coil. the blue is the ballasted run wire to the coil.
The control unit has three wires other than the one going to the ballast. One goes to the negative side of the coil and looks yellow with a black tracer (?!!!). The other two, which are posssibly originally grey/white and brown, go to the distributor (its got an electronic ignition of unknown make in it already). According to the diagram there should be four connections to the control unit; three dark blue (J2A x 2 and J2) on the ignition side, and one dark green from the FLD side. However, mine looks like there are actually five, one of which has been cut off flush with the plug.
This is the control unit for the ignition NOT the voltage reg !
The other box next to the control unit, the one with two wires coming out of it, has a dark green cable going to the horn relay (connector marked 'S' on the box, and 'G' on the diagram), the other joins up with the dreaded 'BMT'! Speaking of which, there two final connections to the 'BMT'; one is cable J2 (dark blue) which comes from bulkhead connector 'N' (according to the diagram, this should connect to the control unit), the other is the FLD side of the alternator. The Bat side is correctly connected via a black 12 gauge wire to bulkhead connector 'P'
Re check this, the green should be the field wire from the alt and the blue should go to the 'BMT'
Keeping up? LOL I wish I was closer I could sort that lot in an hour !
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Anonymous
Looks kinda like the usual.
toss the ignition ECU in the bin, move whatever you decide to fit somewhere better than where it is.. (cooler)
get rid of the mech voltage reg, tidy up the wiring and then follow what pertronics tell ya
So what happens with the pertronics ignition? can you get about 34* total mech timing, as you don't want any more than that and an initial of 12/15* and then set the vac advance when the demon is on
toss the ignition ECU in the bin, move whatever you decide to fit somewhere better than where it is.. (cooler)
get rid of the mech voltage reg, tidy up the wiring and then follow what pertronics tell ya
So what happens with the pertronics ignition? can you get about 34* total mech timing, as you don't want any more than that and an initial of 12/15* and then set the vac advance when the demon is on