crank scraper clearence

Jon Connolly · Post by **Jon Connolly** » Mon Oct 18, 10 6:22 am

Am fabricating a crank scraper for a stroked smallblock
Each side will be deflected differently for the up and down stroke

Anyone got one ?

If so how much clearence is there between it and the rotating assembly ??

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Mon Oct 18, 10 11:43 am

From these guys....
http://www.crank-scrapers.com

"Our new Teflon® scrapers (patent pending) can safely contact rotating engine components. The closer you can run a scraper the more efficient it becomes. Typical safe clearances for standard scrapers run from .035" through .060" -- some more daring builders run them as close as .010" Teflon® scrapers can run in actual contact with the part, .000" clearance, but in reality the rotating assembly will bed or seat in the soft Teflon® and develop a running clearance of perhaps .001 to .005".

Great people and actually very cheap too if you fancied saving some time!

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Oct 18, 10 12:09 pm

Their small block scraper looks pretty damn good.

Jon Connolly · Post by **Jon Connolly** » Mon Oct 18, 10 12:20 pm

Thanks gavin

Had a quick look at their site yesterday but couldn't tell if they were just for stock strke ???

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Oct 18, 10 12:32 pm

They will do any stroke but you might have to work with them on that.

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Mon Oct 18, 10 5:38 pm

Yes, they do a Mopar 4.00" SB stroker off the shelf (in fact that is where I got mine!!) even though it is not clear from their website (at least it wasn't, I haven't looked in the last year or two).
The guy who runs it all Kevin is top notch, knows his stuff and answered some Q's I had, has even posted on Moparts in the past a bit.

I'm normally at the front of the queue on making my own stuff, and in reality it shouldn't be that difficult to make one, but for the price and time, I went with IJ!
I admit I was tempted by the Teflon one (but did not go there in the end)

Jon Connolly · Post by **Jon Connolly** » Tue Oct 19, 10 3:09 pm

Got a positive reply, looks like a 4" teflon 2 bolt mains with a downstroke scrape for me

Hi Jonathan,

Yes, we have both Teflon patterns in 4.00" stroke but there are further variations depending on whether you are running 4-bolt mains. The Teflon scrapers run $169.95 plus shipping.

If these are for dedicated race engines you might consider including the downstroke scraper with directional screening (pictures are about 3/4 down the page):
http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Chrysler.html

Kind regards,

Kevin Johnson

Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers
http://www.crank-scrapers.com
Land O' Lakes, Florida
727-808-8602

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Tue Oct 19, 10 5:42 pm

anyone give me an idea of thickness of the steel used...or indeed if i need to use steel.....

given the write up on that site about aeration of oil in slant 6s
and the fact the oil pan looks very similar to mine and my crank is as aerodymanic as a slab of concrete
think some oil control might be a good idea...

and makes me wonder about my haydrulic lifter problems in my current engine

nothing to say the dip stick markings i depend on are correct
so now the oportunity arrives i should make ammends

i.e baffle and scraper......

baffle i can get tracing of

scraper i'll have to make out of fibreboard as a template and get laser cut I recon.

now lots of these scrapers just attach along the pan rails...

doesn't this mean you will need to use two gaskets or a similarly fat but curved bit of steel over the bearing caps at each end??

or is it a case of gluing it all together with slicone and blue hylomar???

Dave

Jon Connolly · Post by **Jon Connolly** » Tue Oct 19, 10 7:45 pm

Dave999

Can you get a deeper sump on your car ?

Why not chop your sump and extend it downwards and outwards and then make a new extended pick up. Fit a high velocity pump and keep your stock of oil away from your rotating assembly ??
No rear or front seal issues as these remain untouched

I did it and it worked very well

I made a slanted " shelf " sloping away from the rear seal so under acceleration oil could not wash up against the rear seal, also put front to back sloping baffles in so all oil drained into the lower compartment where the pick up was

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Oct 19, 10 7:59 pm

Hi Dave, the usual trick is to use 2 gaskets when fitting a windage tray.

Not sure if the mesh ones are the way to go - aids drain back but stops oil rebounding.......

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed Oct 20, 10 10:08 am

gonna have a bit more mootch through all the various versions they do on that site

Jon I could get a lower sump in there apart from the outer skin of the car its much the same as yours...both derived from 1960 valaint... but with the steering on the other side

mine has the same deep pan section that fits through the K frame

it just has a shallow section at each end rather than at one like yours

trouble is although i did some welding when i was 18 (arc and gas) i have neither the kit or the skill to make that kind of modification......

to alter oiling in any menanigful way would involve external belt driven oil pump i.e about a grand for a pump modified sump and the belt n pulleys
at that price it would make more snes to go dry sump

nobody makes standard pumps...

overkill for a motor that will be mainly sensible rpm

a baffle seems quite easy mind....

i can cut and grind

and a scraper will probably take weeks but involves much of the same

make descent template and cut it out

http://metaloffcuts.co.uk/

teflon is a bit expensive mind

http://www.shopforplastic.co.uk/ptfe-sh ... k-51-c.asp

Pete

yep looks like 2 gaskets and shares in hylomar....

can allwsy shim the engine mounts up a few mm if the sump ends up too low

Dave

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Oct 20, 10 10:47 am

There is a new small block Mopar pro touring/high capacity-stock height/road race pan available from Milodon.

It looks like the big block Mopar one they offer, pn 31580. Many people use that big block road race pan on their HiPo street cars to get a pan that does not go past their K-member and get smashed, but still has increased capacity and advanced oil control.

This LA pan is actually a little shorter than even a stock pan for ultimate low ground clearance.

http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/road-race-oil-pans.asp

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Oct 20, 10 10:54 am

Some close up photos in case anyone needs ideas to copy.

Side pods for 6 quarts of oil
FIVE trap door/gates
3 braking deacceleration gates to keep oil around the sump under hard braking
2 lateral G gates
Fully baffled sump for complete oil control
False right angle wall at back of sump to keep oil from very rear of pan. Also allows more centerlink clearance for possible lowered motors.

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Wed Oct 20, 10 7:37 pm

Yes I'd seen that Dave, nice pan. One of the Moparts guys has been badgering them for ages to make it. That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for...but of course they didn't make it then....and I also wouldn't have spent $500 on it!! So I made my own too. The Kevko pan is a decent middle ground - hangs a bit lower than the K-member but not much, and about $200 IIRC.