Tinning out

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Nov 11, 10 3:03 pm

Well, in the absence of anything interesting to do; I am starting to turn my attention to tinning out the Roadrunner.

This is a full tube chassis car, so very much a "skeleton" with little body work to fix to. There are many tubes within the structure of the car, and at present it is tagged to 7.50.

It presents quite a challenge to tin out for these reasons, but I am up for it.

I have checked the technical Specs and did not find it a lot of use - it specified minimum thickness of materials, but not, for example, if it is permissible to pop rivet directly into the tubes (i.e. do you have to weld tabs to the tubes in order to provide a fixing point???).

Any thoughts on how to tackle this would be greatly appreciated.

I could post pictures, but I am no sure how helpful it would really be as it is hard to gauge the distance between frame tubes (as many are not in the same plane).

Thanks in anticipation.

Pete

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Thu Nov 11, 10 4:12 pm

hi pete
this reply is not going to be any use to you whatsoever so i await your useuall snipey remark

the tinning out is like the final paint on a very top car so really is one area you should bite the bullet and have the pro,s sort it, expensive yes worth it yes

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Nov 11, 10 4:22 pm

I do appreciate that this is a complex and technical job where experience counts for a lot.

I have been quoted £5k, and whilst I appreciate the work, I no longer have that level of budget - I would rather sell the car than commit that sort of money on one aspect, given all the other stuff that needs doing.

This is why I am looking to do it myself - plus it will be good learning, and hopefully I will get a sense of achievement at the end.

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Thu Nov 11, 10 5:09 pm

yes pete 5k seems to be the norm

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Thu Nov 11, 10 5:12 pm

HI Pete
Have a look on the chris alston chassisworks site, there's a lot of good tech pages with pics on there.
I'm retubbing mine over winter, so i'll be looking myself.
Mick

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Nov 11, 10 5:24 pm

Thanks Mick, some good products there: http://www.cachassisworks.com/Home.html

GTXJim · Post by **GTXJim** » Thu Nov 11, 10 8:04 pm

Pete have you had a look at the redvictor 3 post's on pistonheads the last couple of pages Jon Webster is tinning it out lots of pictures

TrevD · Post by **TrevD** » Thu Nov 11, 10 8:22 pm

Pete, have you got the ali yet? if not i might be able to help keep your costs down even more

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Nov 11, 10 9:05 pm

Thanks for the replies, lads; keep them coming!

I have got a few sheets of Ali and one of steel for the top of the firewall, so I am OK for materials at the moment.

I have a 3 foot metal folder, a large swaging tool and a 3 foot sheet metal guillotine, not to mention a couple of sets of cleco's; so I am reasonably well set up to take the task on

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Nov 11, 10 9:10 pm

GTXJim wrote:Pete have you had a look at the redvictor 3 post's on pistonheads the last couple of pages Jon Webster is tinning it out lots of pictures

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... =Redvictor 3&mid=0

Thanks!!

Pete

jerry · Post by **jerry** » Fri Nov 12, 10 4:27 am

Hi Pete,
Pop rivetting to the tubes is perfectly accepatble, when considering tinning or fabrication of the interior.

For what ever reason this is never considered when cerifying a car, there main intersets is are the correct bars in place, correct tube thickness for chosen material.

Material choice is considered for area such as floor plan, 95% choose to go for steel, as this is the most obvious choice with regard to strength, cost, less sisceptible to stone damage, etc.

If you have the cash & weight is a big factor Carbon fibre is nice, but cost, joining of different composite & aluminium or steel materials has its added complication ...

A few grand spent on weight reduction on tinning or floor material, can some times be better spent in putting that money in the motor, box or suspension.

I guesss it depends on what your weight is prior to skinning, weight distribution, class you intend to run, this often leads you to where you want to go ? In other words whats the point of spending a few Grand on a car that weighs 3,000 lbs plus on a few titanium, Carbon fibre parts, how competative do you want to be, blah de blah

Just my 2 Cents as they say

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Nov 12, 10 8:36 am

Thanks for the comments, Jerry - very useful.

Personally, I only intend running in Pro-ET so not super hi-tech. I like the carbon fibre tubs, but won't be using them - to make the tining easier, I will be going for over size tubs to bridge the large void to the 4 link mounting points.

I intend to use steel for the floor, at least on the driver's side.

Interesting to know that you can drill the tubes

Pete

db · Post by db » Fri Nov 12, 10 1:46 pm

That is a great build-up thread on RV3.

The bar has been set high Pete...

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Nov 12, 10 1:50 pm

I have checked out the whole build up thread.
With a bar that high I am more than comfortable that I can limbo under it!!!

I would love to know how much has been invested in RV3 - totally out of my league unless I sell my house...

Anyway...practical suggestions and hints and tips for us mere mortals would really be appreciated, thanks!

failing that, does anyone want to buy the car

Jon Benn · Post by **Jon Benn** » Fri Nov 19, 10 10:56 am

Pete, if you want the definitive answer on fixing to the tubes have a word with Mark Norton, very helpfull man and probably the man that would inspect your car for re tag.