Locating linelok & bias adjuster

[db]

Where do people like to put these?

Is it worth having the Bias adjuster so the knob is accessible from the driving seat?

The linelok is elec so i'm assuming a switch on the shifter?

I know there's been some debate on here about locking out the rears or locking on the fronts, does a manual box affect this decision?

Finally, for the front-to-rear pipe- braided all the way or solid copper joined to braided at the axle?

Ta

[mopar_mark]

For the initial set up, it makes Bias adjustments easier doing it from your seat, other than that I don't see a benefit, unless you intend doing a bit of circuit racing on the track or the street.

Linelok - location is down to personal preference or how you intend to use it. Steering wheel locations, enables you to keep your hands on the wheel. Shifter works also well. I have Trans brake on shifter, so limited my choice for Linelok button location

Never used a Linelok on a manual, but wouldn't of thought it made a difference how it was piped. There are as you say two schools of thought with regard to Front or Rear

Me, I prefer solid pipe & braided at all 4 corners

[ANTON]

If use a full length braided you will need alot more pedel pressure to get good brakes as braided expands a small amount and over that length you will loose brake force. I put my bias adjuster under the car just behind the torsion bar cross member. I lock out the rears so I can control and move the car forward while doing a burn out and then stop again. I use a manual line lock mounted under the dash to the right of the steering wheel.

[Mick70RR]

If it's a 4 speed car, the linelock has to lock the front brakes on.

I use the horn ring for the linelock, if both ignition and the dome light are on the horn ring operates the linelock, else it operates the horn.

[Pete]

As Mick says, much safer as well.......

[Dave999]

would suggest that it would be hard work pressing front brake on hard enough while also doing throttle and clutch unless you are Mr tripod
or have monkeys feet

Dave

[db]

I'll minimise the braided lines then- at the rear i have copper from the hubs to the axle 'T' then a short length of braided to the chassis to bridge the 4-link. I'll run copper to the bulkhead, then obviously braided to the front calipers.
As you say Mark, the Bias valve won't need a lot of input, i'll fit it on the bulkhead below the m/cyl, along with the Linelok.
I shall plumb the Linelok into the fronts, I liked the idea of locking the rears out but of course with a 4-speed, that would require more than the usual quota of legs
I might go for a steering wheel mounted switch if i can find a neat enough one.

Thanks for the info

One more...
Which half of my m/cyl is front & rear?

[Guy]

Normally the one at the rear is the front and the one at the front is the rear if that makes sence

[db]

Cheers Guy, i suspected that but didn't want to say it out loud...

[Guy]

I said it out loud and it still sounded odd to me

[Jules]

Normally the one at the rear is the front and the one at the front is the rear if that makes sence

Orange front, blue rear.

Shoud be anyway

[db]

Sorted

Just need to drill the bulkhead for the 2-bolt mounting and make a little plate to cover the old bolt holes

[AllKiller]

If you get a Hurst roll control or line lok it tells you in the instructions what is the best way to set it up

[db]

Mine's a Moroso jobbie.
It does have instructions but i'd rather trust folk who've used these things in the real world