striping rust and paint..

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Aug 28, 05 10:33 am

whats the easiest way to strip paint and rust? use some sort off chemical solution, then touch up with a dremel/sander...

This is just for under the body work bits.. So its just to clean them up and paint them. Stop them rusting anymore...

Like light mounts, bumber mounts no off which are on display so I'm not looking for a perfect finish..

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Aug 28, 05 10:46 am

If the stuff is thick enough to stand it then sand blast em, some companies though use fierce blasters so you may end up with a string vest.

I bought a very small pot sand blaster off of ebay, bit like a spray gun, with the pressure turned down on my compressor it's quite surprising how gentle it is, it takes time but it's better than holes.

Frost do some good chemical convertors but they work best if there is no paint and the metal is a little rusty, use a convertor if you sand/ dremel the bits as no matter how long you're at it you won't get all the rust off and if not converted it will carry on rusting under the paint, no doubt the paint guys know of something better....

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Aug 28, 05 11:11 am

I didn't think of sand blasting, I was thinking of getting a small air compresser to spray paint with, I think I might have to have another look..

You know off any cheap and small air compressors, that would be capable of sandblasting. No chances of holes, these bits are girder style attachment bits, dtretching from the chassis to the body work/inards..

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Aug 28, 05 11:49 am

something like this?

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=81393

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Aug 28, 05 12:19 pm

If you're thinking of buying a compressor then don't waste money buying a small one mate, as sooner or later you'll want to run something off of it and it won't be big enough.

Take a look around at the various air tools and spray guns and get an idea of what cfm they use then buy the compressor on that info, but allow for some spare capacity.

Mines something like 12/14cfm and is really a little on the small side

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Aug 28, 05 12:20 pm

the screwfix one is Too small

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Aug 28, 05 3:27 pm

trouble is I have virtually no room in teh garage, so its physical size needs to be as small as possible..

What CFM would you recomend?

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Sun Aug 28, 05 5:31 pm

Biggest possible cfm is what you need...especially for sandblasting which uses lot of air. And it's the FAD (free air delivery) you want to look at rather than the piston displacement.

If you want to run it off the mains (single phase) then about 3HP is as big as you can use/get, which generally have a piston displacement of 11-14cfm....BUT vary a lot in FAD. I bought THE biggest FAD single phase machine which was an SIP Stratus (11cfm FAD - that is good believe me).
I got the smaller tank, and it doesn't really take any more floorspace than my old 4cfm one.

You can pick up a compressor which will run most air tools for a lot less, but sooner or later you'll want a bigger one

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Sun Aug 28, 05 7:21 pm

On non-removable parts I've been using a grinder with wire brush wheel (very agressive, helps find the marginal bits!), then rust convertor, then sanding (the convertor only works on rust so any that hits good metal then needs to be removed), then using an acid-etch primer.

The plan for the removable bits (mounts/suspension etc) is that I'll be getting them blasted and powder coated - I decided to get them done by a company that can do the powder coating right after the blasting to minimize the chance of rust coming back - if thats not right please let me know

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Aug 29, 05 8:14 am

That all sounds good to me James, but saying that i'm no paint guy far from it.

Jon Benn · Post by **Jon Benn** » Thu Sep 01, 05 8:18 pm

As long as the parts arn't too big and you can get them to me, just south of Oxford, I will shot blast them for you, I use oxide, glass bead and ground corn cob. May take a couple of days to get it done, but it will be free.

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Thu Sep 01, 05 8:29 pm

Wow, now there's a good offer

Distance may be the fly in the ointment though

Trigger_Andy · Post by **Trigger_Andy** » Thu Sep 01, 05 8:42 pm

I have access to a bead blaster at work and will blast parts for ppl if required. Again distance will be prob be a problem, but the offers open.

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Thu Sep 01, 05 9:44 pm

I thought most (all?) powder coating companies will prepare the parts first, usually by blasting, then coat them - all included in the price?? You deliver them clean but they'll take it from there.

Anyway, I agree - you want to get any coating (or painting) done right after blasting, rust starts forming very quickly.

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Thu Sep 01, 05 9:52 pm

I remember where they did 'a car is reborn', and did a clear primer coat right after blasting, but they had to be careful not to get any fingers on it as the acid in the fingerprint grease would cause it to rust way quicker, too ...

Unlike 'American Hotrod' Brit car related TV occationally tells you useful stuff