Today I went to change my pads.
Girlock calipers as used on VJ & VK I believe. Changed from original VG ones at some point.
Found the inside passenger rotor is shagged. 5 on 4 PCD.
Any options other than ordering from Oz?
Also broke the hex head off the girlock caliper bleed nipple.
So the daily driver is now off the road.
Posted here to save the Yank owners from being bored.
Thinking of the caliper conversion that I have seen Dave write about before.
Brakes - what do you use/have lying around
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autofetish
- Posts: 5599
- Joined: Sat May 21, 11 6:43 am
Re: Brakes - what do you use/have lying around
Dont be silly you nutter you got a great car and info on the problem you have and how you fix it is great.VGVIP wrote: Posted here to save the Yank owners from being bored.
.
Even if i learn one thing was a good post .
Any conversion that updates old breaks has to be a good thing.
Post some pictures and let us know how you get on
The closer you are to death the more alive you are
Think on the rota front Oz is best
however Try with roger at monkfish performance first
he carries pedders stuff and under the pedders UK brand they do some brake parts made by PBR mainly cylinders and hoses
i.e he must have, or pedders Aus must have a BPR account...
your VJ calipers are probably the best of the bunch VG VH bind and the late cl ones warp and have a different offset..
i have a set of VJ pads that are worn
the backing is good
they can be relined by those fellas that did my clutch if you want them
or yours can
or basically any 4 pot off a hilux up to i think about 95 can be fitted with a bit of fiddling nad minor machine work
Anton has sorted snapped off nipples for Derek before
he had a drill it out over size tap it and put something in the hole process
that worked well
Dave
however Try with roger at monkfish performance first
he carries pedders stuff and under the pedders UK brand they do some brake parts made by PBR mainly cylinders and hoses
i.e he must have, or pedders Aus must have a BPR account...
your VJ calipers are probably the best of the bunch VG VH bind and the late cl ones warp and have a different offset..
i have a set of VJ pads that are worn
the backing is good
they can be relined by those fellas that did my clutch if you want them
or yours can
or basically any 4 pot off a hilux up to i think about 95 can be fitted with a bit of fiddling nad minor machine work
Anton has sorted snapped off nipples for Derek before
he had a drill it out over size tap it and put something in the hole process
that worked well
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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VGVIP
Thanks TerryMinty wrote:If it was original vg steve i could help,same as mine,dont know whether bleed nipples are the same,got a few spare vh ones.
Am going to have a go at removing the broken one with an easy out....
Just been looking at 3/8 bleed screws on ebay. Will have to see what length and thread if I get it out.
Roger is going to see if he can get the VG discs for me by the Pedders route.
Last edited by VGVIP on Fri Apr 20, 12 7:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Minty
- Posts: 573
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:16 pm
- Location: Terry Step Hindhead,Highest village in surrey
Steve i have a spare one of these,bought it last year from PPR and didnt use,goes from VG to CM ,they must all use the 3/8-24x1-1/4 tread.its here for you if you want
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1972 Chrysler Valiant Charger 770 -1006 Magnum 360 Rocket ship
1972 Chrysler Valiant Charger 770 rolling shell under restoration -667
2002 Chrysler Sebring Convertible
1972 Chrysler Valiant Charger 770 rolling shell under restoration -667
2002 Chrysler Sebring Convertible
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VGVIP
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VGVIP
Only thing that the easy out was able to get out easy was rude words when it snapped.
This was after having soaked the bleed screw in WD40 for a few days.
This seems to be the only set of repair kit that I can find here in the UK.
Anyone else seen them around?
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Brake-Blee ... 3wodyy2_Xg
This was after having soaked the bleed screw in WD40 for a few days.
This seems to be the only set of repair kit that I can find here in the UK.
Anyone else seen them around?
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Brake-Blee ... 3wodyy2_Xg
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VGVIP
Thanks for the help with parts and offers guys!
Have got myself a new daily driver so can now afford the time to get the parts sent over to me.
Have ordered a new set of discs from Sunbury Brakes.
As we already know, the VG disc was a one year only (with some of the later VGs having the larger bolt pattern, so I am told - same as VH) so PBR etc stopped making them so sadly Roger could not source them. I am sure there would be no problems for Roger to get the VH onwards for you Charger owners though!
Have also rounded up another set of Girlock calipers and a spare master cylinder in Oz. Will get them sent to me.
Plan is to build the best master cylinder and pair of calipers after inspecting pistons and cylinders for pitting etc.
Ordered a master cylinder kit from RockAuto for what I am guessing is the US one that mine is based on (just seems to be the ports for the hydraulic lines are cast on the opposite side).
Already have the rebuild kit and new pads for the Girlock calipers, a new set of 3 flexable lines, rear shoes and wheel cylinders.
In short the plan is to overhaul the lot with standard VG everything except for the later model Girlock calipers.
Have got myself a new daily driver so can now afford the time to get the parts sent over to me.
Have ordered a new set of discs from Sunbury Brakes.
As we already know, the VG disc was a one year only (with some of the later VGs having the larger bolt pattern, so I am told - same as VH) so PBR etc stopped making them so sadly Roger could not source them. I am sure there would be no problems for Roger to get the VH onwards for you Charger owners though!
Have also rounded up another set of Girlock calipers and a spare master cylinder in Oz. Will get them sent to me.
Plan is to build the best master cylinder and pair of calipers after inspecting pistons and cylinders for pitting etc.
Ordered a master cylinder kit from RockAuto for what I am guessing is the US one that mine is based on (just seems to be the ports for the hydraulic lines are cast on the opposite side).
Already have the rebuild kit and new pads for the Girlock calipers, a new set of 3 flexable lines, rear shoes and wheel cylinders.
In short the plan is to overhaul the lot with standard VG everything except for the later model Girlock calipers.
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VGVIP
Second set of Girlock calipers rebuilt last night and painted in good old matt black BBQ paint.
I knew that the HJ or HX Holdens sometimes used the cast iron Girlock calipers. Found the Girlock rebuild instructions in my HJ to HX supplement to my HQ Holden workshop manuals.
From previous experience of rebuilding PBR calipers I ignored the bit about how to get the piston into the dust boot and did it the better way where you don't have to use any plastic tools to flip the boot on. Put the boot just over the bottom of the piston first extent the boot down as far as it will go. Then locate the boot into the recess of the caliper where it seats and slide the piston down into the caliper through the boot and seal. Job done, much easier and quicker with no risk of puncturing the dust boot.
It also describes correct pad change procedure. So am thinking that incorrect fitting of pads years (decades) ago plus the fact they may have seized up a little with time may have been the cause of some problems, incorrect pad wear and worse.
Hope to drop into Pirtek today to see if I can get components to make some simple bench bleeding fittings for the right price.
Master Cylinder rebuild tonight if I get time after I put the young bloke to bed.
Hope to do the assembly on Friday.
Possibly bring it to Brooklands on Sunday
I knew that the HJ or HX Holdens sometimes used the cast iron Girlock calipers. Found the Girlock rebuild instructions in my HJ to HX supplement to my HQ Holden workshop manuals.
From previous experience of rebuilding PBR calipers I ignored the bit about how to get the piston into the dust boot and did it the better way where you don't have to use any plastic tools to flip the boot on. Put the boot just over the bottom of the piston first extent the boot down as far as it will go. Then locate the boot into the recess of the caliper where it seats and slide the piston down into the caliper through the boot and seal. Job done, much easier and quicker with no risk of puncturing the dust boot.
It also describes correct pad change procedure. So am thinking that incorrect fitting of pads years (decades) ago plus the fact they may have seized up a little with time may have been the cause of some problems, incorrect pad wear and worse.
Hope to drop into Pirtek today to see if I can get components to make some simple bench bleeding fittings for the right price.
Master Cylinder rebuild tonight if I get time after I put the young bloke to bed.
Hope to do the assembly on Friday.
Possibly bring it to Brooklands on Sunday