Temporary paint job- HELP!!

db · Post by db » Fri Oct 05, 12 5:59 pm

Proper paint job ain't gonna happen on the Belve for at least a couple of years, if at all

Reality of finances, priorities an all that

SO I need to kill all the surface rust that's appeared since bare-metalling it.
I need to remove a lot of the filler that was put on cos rust's got under the edges of it.
Then It's going MATT BLACK.
I can't stand a paint job that looks like you've tried and failed to make it look good so I'm not even going to try

The main worry I have is- HOW DO I STOP THE RUST FROM COMING BACK?

NaughtyAlan · Post by **NaughtyAlan** » Fri Oct 05, 12 6:50 pm

Use led, that will stop it

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Fri Oct 05, 12 6:57 pm

No paint, mate. Spray it with Gibbs Penatrolyl. me and Jem are fans. Thats what Jem's belvedere was covered with;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120983607134? ... _500wt_969

Thats what my next patina'd car will be having on it.

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:09 pm

Oh dear Paul.....

It was going so well too!

That is the trouble with bare metalling it... Once you start, you really should see it through...

If you want to go cheap, get a good primer sealer on there. Then hit it with a good matt/ satin black. There is a product over here called Hot Rod black. And is only $70 a gallon! It sprays so easy even a one eyed gimp can get a good result.

But get that primer covered, cos it is so pourous! That is why it is not a good idea to wet sand primer!

God luck mate, If I were over there, I would of come for the weekend for a jolly and a paint session! Mind you, there might of been a skull or two on it.

I would steer clear of the oil.... It does a great job protecting, but creeps into every nook n cranny. Which is a good thing, till you do decide to paint it.... Then it carries on creeping, Bananarama! up that expensive paint job you do at a later date.

If you take your time, and have a big enough space, it is quite astonishing what you can do yourself, although it is probably getting cold and damp there now.

When I was a lad, I done a complete bare metal custom paint job, in a borrowed lockup with no leccy. It was amazing! I ran the longest extension cable in the world! You can do it!
Best of luck mate.

db · Post by db » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:30 pm

Thanks Miles thats very tempting.
How many cans to treat a car?
How often do you re-treat?
Is it really non-sticky? Can your wife lean against it in a white T-shirt?

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:32 pm

DON'T DO IT!

db · Post by db » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:34 pm

Thanks Jeff, I was still writing that before I saw your message!

I guess the decider as you say is- do I want to paint it in the future or keep it forever bare-metal!

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:36 pm

Yep!

They say you can paint over it, BUT they have also written this waiver....

Painting Over Gibbs

The label on a can of Gibbs Brand says that "you can paint right over it". However, common sense will tell you not to paint over an oily surface that isn't clean.

To paint metal that has been treated with Gibbs Brand, simply begin by wiping it down with whatever surface cleaner is recommended by the manufacturer of the particular paint system that you are using, and proceed as you normally would.

Due to the tremendous variety of ingredients that are used in paints, it is not possible to be absolutely certain that Gibbs Brand is compatible with every paint on the market. However, we are not aware of any incompatability issues with any particular paint.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:38 pm

Paul, yes and yes..It's not sticky at all. The yank hot rodders tend to use it in dry states, which don't include Wales and Cornwall. hat said, I've used it on al my chassis parts without rust returning. Also, Gibbs claim that you can paint over it.
£20 a can inc postage on eBay. might be a good short term solution. especially if the car is usually garaged.
That said, Jeff knows paint inside out and I don't. Also, the hot rod black he refers to is widely rue fenced on various yank hot rod sites.
Finaly, I'm due to get a dry state car with patina/surface rust and I have every intention of using Gibbs on it until I can afford paint.

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:39 pm

It is your choice Paul. You could get a good sealer on there, then get it down to Jem for the perfect faux rust look!

That would look soooooo sweet!

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:44 pm

from this......

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:46 pm

To this, in a week. And all the metal is protected underneath!

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:46 pm

How cool is that!

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:47 pm

Apologies for typos, bloody iPads!
Jeff is the man for paint for sure.But I can't afford paint, so something else has to do in the meantime. Paul, why not get a can of Gibbs, rub it over one particular area and see if it remains rust free?

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Fri Oct 05, 12 10:51 pm

Miles...... I LOVE rust and patina! When I can afford it I will have a very rusty hotrod!