seals for wilwood calipers
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seals for wilwood calipers
Does anyone know of a place in England that keeps caliper O rings for wilwoods in stock ?
Mick
Mick
- Jon Connolly
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9.844 @ 134.04 ... Smallblock Valiant + NOS
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvwC1fd0 ... 8Z96U8t0LQ
10.169 @ 130.17 ... Smallblock Dodge Ram pick up truck - motor only.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvwC1fd0 ... 8Z96U8t0LQ
- shovelheadrob
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Mick try Jon Webster http://www.webster-race-engineering.co.uk/ or Andy Robinson http://www.robinson-race-cars.co.uk/
You can't have too much power, only a lack of traction!
- shovelheadrob
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- mopar_mark
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It isn't the original, iit's the slim steel one with the plastic reservoirs. It looks a newer style than the original. I ordered the alloy one from stateside but they cocked the order up and sent me the steel one but it looks like the alloy one.
Assuming it's newer, it would be for disc brakes anyway. How would i know, if it's got a residual valve ?
I cracked open the line today before i stripped the calipers and the discs were still dragging.
Mick
Assuming it's newer, it would be for disc brakes anyway. How would i know, if it's got a residual valve ?
I cracked open the line today before i stripped the calipers and the discs were still dragging.
Mick
- shovelheadrob
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- Joined: Tue Sep 18, 12 10:27 am
That's correct for disc brake applications, drumbrakes have one to keep a bit of pressure on the seals, because they use umbrella seals rather than "O" rings they need them. Drums also have return springs on the shoes which is why a 10 psi residual pressure valve is used with drums & a 2 psi one with discs, which as you say Mark is generally only used where the master cylinder is below the height of the calipers & stops the fluid syphoning back.mopar_mark wrote:My understanding on residual pressures valves, is that there not needed in regular application, Unless Mick has relocated his master cylinder, below the line of the callipers
Mick, if your m/cyl is designed for a disc/drum combo it will have a residual pressure valve built into the outlet, although I've just tried to find a pic & it would appear that Chrysler stopped using this in the early 70's so as you have the later style m/cyl that should eliominate that as the cause. Also as you have releassed the pressure in the line, it sounds like the pistons are binding, I'm sure you'll find the problem when you tear them down.
You can't have too much power, only a lack of traction!
Well, bought new seals and installed, cleaned all the pistons up and the calipers inside, put it all back together but still dragging, the pass side is a lot better, the drivers side inot quite so good, the old brakes where sticking, turning them with the wheel on, the drivers side is similar, the pass side feels better, i think. Bloody annoying. If the driver's side was as good as the pass side i'd be content. Also the open wheel nuts i've got dont quite fit the wheels.
The old type metal cylinder and the newer one, the new one is the same as the alloy one in the pic but is steel.
Mick
The old type metal cylinder and the newer one, the new one is the same as the alloy one in the pic but is steel.
Mick
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