Diff....icult decisions

Jon Connolly · Post by **Jon Connolly** » Tue Oct 23, 12 7:44 pm

You also need to make a choice early on with regards to transmission

904 or 727

( different prop )

PaulR · Post by **PaulR** » Tue Oct 23, 12 7:54 pm

Dave
SBP 8 3/4 is unique to A body so not too many about. Good advice from Mick. Enjoy the car as is for now upgrade as you can. Re the 8.8 This might be worth considering from A bodies only.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... hp?t=89918 I know its a F**d though

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Oct 23, 12 8:00 pm

I take it that if i find a sbp 8.75 then the drums currently on the car are interchangeable??

Probably not....

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Oct 23, 12 8:07 pm

...as I said earlier, the drums are a different width.

That is why it is not a good idea swapping an "A" Body 8 3/4 onto an early"B" Body car.............

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Tue Oct 23, 12 8:18 pm

autofetish wrote:
AllKiller wrote: And although i get hammered on here for taking my time to do a job...I do it once and properly.

.
But come on Steve if you got any slower you would start going backwards.

I making the stuff

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Oct 23, 12 10:45 pm

Dave, the brakes off your existing axle won't work

meanwhile

http://www.mopar.nl/?page_id=787

is a guide to Mopar rear ends

the hardest item to find on your list is the axle. maybe let that dictate what follows in terms of upgrades

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Wed Oct 24, 12 12:14 am

Mick wrote:Dave, dont try doing it all at once, as you will end up with a project that you dont get to use and probably lose heart in the end.
Get the car on the road first. The internet is your friend, if you set about a task, do your home work first, research it on the internet,get a workshop manual and ask questions. Nobody knows it all, some just think they do. When you feel confident in what you're doing, order the parts and do each job one at a time.
I'm no authority on these things but you're welcome to give me a call and if i can give you any worthwhile advice i will do.
Mick

Seems pretty good advice to me . . .

1)No point laying out good money for wheels if your planning to change the axle & new wheels wouldn't fit
2) Do what is necessary to get the car back on the road.
3) Axles take a lot of abuse, unless your putting serious horsepower, using slicks, etc.
4) Drive it & save up for the axle & wheels, if it breaks it breaks, no big deal, axles that folks dont want are never going to go for big money.
5) Dont jump from front axles to back axles, other upgrades, as Mick said you will just end up with a major project . . .

Dave81 · Post by **Dave81** » Wed Oct 24, 12 1:00 pm

MilesnMiles wrote:Dave, the brakes off your existing axle won't work

meanwhile

http://www.mopar.nl/?page_id=787

is a guide to Mopar rear ends

the hardest item to find on your list is the axle. maybe let that dictate what follows in terms of upgrades

Fantastic link that is Miles...........

Thanks for the help guys, and the offers of parts to get the car through the MOT.

The only major part left on the list is that the car failed due to cracked inner sidewalls. Hence me searching for new rims as well as tyres (don't like the current ones on it). Obviously when i looked at the price (not an issue if i buy once), it became apparent that the diff will decided whether i should get SBP or BBP wheels.

It is worth noting that both wheels i like are attainable in 15" in both small and big patterns!

The car failed in August. I decided then that it would be off the road until spring (so no rush to get it back on yet) to allow me to bond/tinker and sort some of the issues on the car.

The Drivetrain swap was gonna be a 2013/2014 upgrade until the above reared its head!

This will be a slow restoration and i'm happy with that. I fully intend to keep resto sections to small timeframes to allow me to keep the car on the road as much as possible and maintain interest along the way........As i said i don't want a 5 year garage project!

Anyway,

Thanks for the help/offers and teachings........

I will put up a wanted add for that alusive 8.75 but i wont hold my breath!!

What are peoples thoughts on getting B/C body 8.75 shortened??

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Oct 24, 12 1:30 pm

Yep, not a problem with shortening those, it's what everybody else has to do, the supply of A body cases has pretty much dried up in the UK.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed Oct 24, 12 1:32 pm

this might seem mad

but have you considerd a complete axle out of a jeep (dana 44 possibly correct Bolt pattern) or late dodge pickup (mopar C clip 9 1/4 probably wrong bolt pattern)

steer clear of the AMC20 unles you plan custom axle conversion

Dave

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Wed Oct 24, 12 2:35 pm

With the right offset, a B body 8-3/4 will work in an A body, not sure about perch positioning though.
My car came with a 8-3/4 small pinion, the 340 in the car was running high 12's with the 4 spd when i sold it. Which proves how strong the small pinion is, never mind the large pinion.
You want large bolt pattern axles because there's a much bigger choice of wheels and the studs are 1/2".
Mick

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Wed Oct 24, 12 2:58 pm

"B" Body 8 3/4 axles come in a variety of widths, be careful.
Perch widths vary as well, but it is likley you will cut them off and start again.....

One size dos NOT fit all

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Wed Oct 24, 12 9:06 pm

Yeah, you're right, early B i think is narrower than later.
Mick

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Wed Oct 24, 12 9:12 pm

I think '71 up are a lot wider too.........

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Wed Oct 24, 12 9:34 pm

Yep, 71 up a are 'wide body' B bod axles.