clutch linkage help.

Flakey · Post by **Flakey** » Sun Oct 28, 12 10:16 am

Hi. i am having trouble and hoping someone may be able to help, i am installing a new engine and trans into my 68 barracuda. i have a 383 motor and an 833 trans. it was an auto before. i got a new clutch linkage and all fittings needed from brewers in the us. everything looked good until i fitted the headers, they are the tri y headers from schumachers for big blocks into A bodies.
the header is fouling the linkage from the torque shaft to the clutch fork. i have attached a picture that is taken from underneath the car.
i have a couple of options, i can cut and move the linkage, this would mean shortening the clutch fork by about 3/4" not sure how much this would effect the pedal pressure, i have a mcleod 10 3/4 diaphram clutch.
the other option is to cut and turn the lower part of the header, this would be a last option as they are ceramic coated and cost a few quid.
any ideas or photos of other installations would be appreciated.
thanks fintan

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Oct 28, 12 10:31 am

Blue is the expert here and I am sure he will be along soon.

However, I think you already know the answer.............Alternatively go for the hydraulic clutch release bearing conversion; worth looking into..........

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sun Oct 28, 12 4:53 pm

Hmm, that linkage doesn't look like it lines up too well. Check that the engine is positioned correctly and level side to side and then remove the header and sort out the linkage so that it all fits properly. Then refit the header and see where you are. If it still doesn't clear you'll have to alter the header. Is there room to space out the whole header away from the head? That might be a solution. I never buy precoated headers 'cos you never can tell for sure that they won't need work.

terryr · Post by **terryr** » Sun Oct 28, 12 5:16 pm

and you have not got your tortion bar and steering in yet,i would get it all in place before you think about cutting them headers,the hydraulic route would be ideal ,but they are pricey and seems a shame when you have gone to all that effort,maybe a smaller collector,what size is that one its hard to tell in the pic

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sun Oct 28, 12 5:35 pm

Looking at this again, it seems the whole Z bar needs to move towards the inner wing a good 1/2" which would make the header clearance even worse and then the linkage from the pedal wouldn't fit. Are you sure all your linkage parts are correct? I'm wondering if the clutch fork is a small block one and too long, or it's the wrong Z bar?

db · Post by db » Sun Oct 28, 12 10:33 pm

Following on from what Blue and Terry said, don't think about cutting anything yet!
Spend a bit of time re-checking the fit of everything. There's about a million combinations of different rods and linkages on these bloody things so it is quite possible one of the parts could be wrong, or you might have fitted something wrong.
If you have to shorten the clutch fork, you should be able to equalise the leverage by shortening the arm of the Z bar by the same proportion.

There's a few pics of my workings on my Belve thread, might give you some pointers. also speak to Ade Worman, he gave me loads of help

Adrian Worman · Post by **Adrian Worman** » Sun Oct 28, 12 11:02 pm

That's miles out, I think Blues right, it don't look like the correct equalising bar and the clutch operating rod doesn't seem to be square against the clutch fork
Check the Brewers and Passon websites, save the pics of the correct Z bars, enlarge em to the actual size and then check against what you've got.
Could even be the positioning of the frame rail bar support that's wrong.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Oct 28, 12 11:06 pm

Also as it is a conversion, do you know you have the engine in the correct place?

This sounds silly, but you can get away with it being a bit off with an Auto, but a manul needs to be bob-on due to the mounting point on the frame rail for the "Z" bar. There are specific dimensions relative to the crank centre line and the frame rails and "K" frame.....it is critical for some applications...

Adrian Worman · Post by **Adrian Worman** » Sun Oct 28, 12 11:07 pm

Oh I forgot to mention that the diaphragm type of clutch is a lot easier on the pedal pressure than the traditional Borg and Beck style cover, so you can have a little less tolerance in the linkage without really feeling it, don't forget to remove the over centre spring or you'll have no pedal!

Flakey · Post by **Flakey** » Tue Oct 30, 12 4:04 pm

Thanks for the replys. the engine is in the right place, it is a direct connections big block k frame and it all lines up with gearbox crossmember. i am going to modify the clutch linkage and shorten the clutch fork, hopefully it will all work, if not a small pie cut in the collector and reposition, luckily the weld will be under the steering column and wont be seen.