Rusty floor pans

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Mon Sep 19, 05 12:40 pm

Sanding is unlikely to have any effect on the rust patches that can be seen in the pic, the best way would be to use a wire brush attachment on an angle grinder. However, as you remove the rust you'll also be removing a certain amount of metal leaving the floor that much thinner in the worst area's, it's unlikely that you will get the whole floor "shiny" again in the area's showing, wire brushing might even leave some small holes in the worst area's. Use a wire brush on the area's in the pic to start with, then if it's still solid try the rust converter and prime and paint. That way you won't waste time and money doing the whole floor, just to have to replace it anyway. Personally, I'd replace the rusty parts with new metal just to be sure, or you might find that you have to repeat the whole thing again in future which will eventually lead to replacing and welding anyway

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Sep 19, 05 1:23 pm

If its only superficial I would go with the original plan, very unlikely to remove so much metal that it will thin down the metal.
Purely from memory the floors are solid on that Charger.
If however it is more serious and eaten its way into the metal, then its best to cut out bad metal and weld in new.

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Mon Sep 19, 05 8:08 pm

Don't forget to remove any areas of rust convertor that hit good metal before priming (it only converts rust).

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Sep 19, 05 8:50 pm

Get a small hammer, a glazing hammer is just right, use the sharper end and have a good tap around if the hammer dents or goes through anywhere then cut that bit/bits out, you need to have the right weight hammer though, too heavy and it will go through pretty much all over, too light and you end up keeping bits that are way past the best

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Mon Sep 19, 05 9:39 pm

Wil wrote:Get a small hammer, a glazing hammer is just right, use the sharper end and have a good tap around if the hammer dents or goes through anywhere then cut that bit/bits out, you need to have the right weight hammer though, too heavy and it will go through pretty much all over, too light and you end up keeping bits that are way past the best

I've found the angle grinder with wire-brush wheel is viscious enough for that task

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Mon Sep 19, 05 11:14 pm

A cheap grinder will work fine (go to Screwfix Direct

) - I prefer to have a cheap one and chuck it when it breaks (having had a nice one die on me anyway).

I wouldn't worry about stripping /all/ the paint off, just be 100% sure it is clear of rot before ignoring it! Check up close for small bubbles etc, take the odd bit off to double check if unsure

Its best to take your time now, rather than have to do it again in a couple of years ...

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Sep 20, 05 12:46 am

i used an angle grinder with the wire brush, put on goggles & dust mask then spent the next 4 hours in the boot. Cleaned it all up with a hoover & panel wipe. Then used a rust cure and painted it.

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Tue Sep 20, 05 3:01 am

wow, thats a clean boot floor. 4hrs with a grinder, hope you had ear muffs on as well - aint angle grinders just the noiseiest things ever

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Sep 20, 05 9:26 am

& ear muffs too. If your just doing the floor & not the sides you can paint it with a brush if like, as the trunk mat covers the floor & will hide any brush strokes, hairs etc

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Sep 20, 05 9:37 am

I've found Frost do some good rust stuff

Dintrol for one, plus they also do the coatings for afterwards

check em out here www.frost.co.uk