Micro blisters.

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Wed Jan 02, 13 2:07 pm

Popped down to see the Coronet this morning.
Finally in the workshop for gearbox fitment.
Big smile until I noticed bad micro blisters all over the hood and trunk.
Gutted.
Only covered car about a month ago. Prior to that it was regularly washed and waxed with auto glym high definition wax.
Happy new year to me

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Wed Jan 02, 13 2:39 pm

Very common with cars that have had the primer wet flatted Gary, which is why we always recommend and train new painters with a 100% dry flatting process.

The only wet flatting done now is for that traditional super flat top coat "flat and polish" finish and as it's only the top coat the moisture can't get in.

Cars that have had the primer wet flatted should alway we properly dried out in the booth...

Covering the car will accelerate the problem as well. As soon as you get the cover off, let the air circulate and get the car in the warm, you might find that all the microblisters will disappear...fingers crossed!

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Wed Jan 02, 13 3:37 pm

Thanks Ivor.
Fingers and toes crossed

Just seems ironic. The car sat unloved and green for 4 years.
Think ill bin the cover and take my chances ?
Obviously not the original paint then ?
See what happens.

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Wed Jan 02, 13 4:49 pm

It could well have been painted 30 years ago, when everyone was wet flatting...if all the moisture isn't driven out of the primers, microblistering is the result.

However, there can be other causes, but it's usually moisture and covers definitely make it worse...best to leave it to get covered in dust!

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Wed Jan 02, 13 5:16 pm

Mossy my car was painted about 20 years ago....wet flatted....micro blisters coming through with venom now, only on the top though, top of wings, boot lid, bonnet and roof.....sides and any vertical surface ...is fine ??

Still only a 2 footer though

...so gonna be respray time soon I Guess

Oh well 20 years aint bad

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Wed Jan 02, 13 5:45 pm

dont panic about it they will all but disapear when out and about in that 1 day of sun that we might get this yr,

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Wed Jan 02, 13 5:51 pm

Thanks for replys guys.
I just feel gutted as in my attempt to hold back problems ( waxing and covering ) I've actually caused a problem.
Should have cleaned the glass and left the paint green and growing.
In all honesty I'd be happier with no paint !!!
At least it would be in the rat rod group

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Wed Jan 02, 13 5:52 pm

Cannonball wrote:dont panic about it they will all but disapear when out and about in that 1 day of sun that we might get this yr,

Lets hope that day is at the Nats then Dunc

Motorama · Post by **Motorama** » Wed Jan 02, 13 7:22 pm

I get similar on my 57 Caddy which was painted in the mid ninties, some fine microblisters appear in the winter even though its in the dry, in the summer they virtually disappear

TW71 · Post by **TW71** » Thu Jan 03, 13 11:18 am

Same problem, 20 years or so since it was painted, so not too bad.

Talking of wet flatting , are most modern base coats now water based?
Ivor?

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Thu Jan 03, 13 3:03 pm

Both waterbased and solvent based basecoats are readily available in the UK and both are perfectly legal to use, depending on the type of shop and the work you are doing.

Generally, mainstream bodyshops repairing your Mercs and Porsches are using waterbase in order to remain EPA compliant. They will have all the right kit including prep decks, dry sanding and top of the range booths to ensure the compliant materials work properly.

Classic car restoration shops, motorcycle refinishers and and refinishers of agricultural plant and equipment still use solvent based products.

I'm old school and still prefer solvent basecoat, but I always use the latest technology high solids two pack clears.

TW71 · Post by **TW71** » Thu Jan 03, 13 5:11 pm

Thanks Ivor for clearing that up, seems that you must get the temperture correct to rid any dampness / dew point level.

Tim

Scooby · Post by **Scooby** » Sun Jan 06, 13 5:38 pm

Interesting read up other reasons as well as Ivors damp flatting were the use of Parrafin heaters blasting out a lot of heat but also a lot of damp moisture.

74challenger318 · Post by **74challenger318** » Sun Jan 06, 13 7:47 pm

Also drain your compressor daily and use water traps on airlines, even if you dry flat moisture can still be transfered into paint from your compressor.