Striker Plate adjustment

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Steve
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Striker Plate adjustment

Post by Steve »

Slowly working through the list of jobs to do over the Winter and had a look at my 'difficult' rear door. Im sure its poor striker plate adjustment thats to blame as all my other 27 doors shut properly and very easily. The drivers side rear shuts sometimes and other times its like slamming it against solid metal!! (The hinges are solid and there is no movement/ wear in them).

Been through various links on the web but still not working properly. Tried loosening it, sliding it as far out as I can, tighten till it just grips then slowly shut it so it self locates the plate but it just isnt happening....The manual is very vague.

Any of you guys who regularly strip cars for respraying etc got any pointers as to how to align the plate correctly please??

Cheers Steve :thumbright:
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terryr
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Re: Striker Plate adjustment

Post by terryr »

[quote="Steve"] all my other 27 doors shut properly and very easily.



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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

It is probably not the plate in the door. Adjust the round bit on the frame.
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Steve
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Post by Steve »

Hasnt got one Dave, just the mech in the door and a striker plate which is adjustable on the door frame. Its held on by three screws that link it to a floating backplate. If I loosen the screws it all moves so it can be lined up with the door mech. I just dont know how to accurately line the striker plate up with the door mech. Its a bit different to most Mopars that have a cylindrical post instead of a plate. Dont have a pic unfort Dave.

There must be a way to line it up instead of just randomly moving it around and hoping for the best....

Cheers Steve :thumbright:
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terryr
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Post by terryr »

maybe the door pins are worn steve,but on a rear door i doubt it ,,,,you cant use the door alot so dont worry too much mate ,maybe your just finding silly faults when you should be getting that heater core sorted,have you droped the cabinet yet,,they have secret nuts n bolt that hold em in you know,,,,,dont worry about the doors they are peezy its just a case of fartin about with em,,if you need a hand ill come over and give you a hand
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Steve
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Post by Steve »

Thanks for the advice Terry.... Got a list if niggly little things to get done while the car is in the rented garage. Stops me getting cabin fever! I cant do the heater there as the landlord is funny about working on cars as opposed to just storing them (its under an OAPs home) so I have to be a bit discreet if you know what I mean.

The door doesnt shut at all at the moment or I would leave it shut as you say. Seems like Im just guessing at where the plate goes rather than having a plan to set it up properly. Needs to work as I do proms etc in the Summer. Will have a fiddle again tomorrow and at least get it shut to drive home on Thursday.

Thanks for the very kind offer of help aswell.... I will have a bash at the heater, follow the book and let you know if I get stuck if thats ok
:thumbright:

Cheers Steve
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terryr
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Post by terryr »

ok mate,,just remember not to fiddle at the proms ;)
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Charger
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Re: Striker Plate adjustment

Post by Charger »

Steve wrote:The drivers side rear shuts sometimes and other times it’s like slamming it against solid metal!!
That doesn’t sound like striker plate fault to me, unless the plate is loose, how can it shut sometimes then not other times?? the plate should not move

To me that sounds like it’s the latch that’s at fault, maybe the latch isn’t ‘resetting’ properly when you press the button to open the door?? It’s releasing enough to allow the door to open (strange) but then the returning to the closed/latched position, so when you go to shut the door you get the “it’s like slamming it against solid metal” effect

You can mock this up on another door to see if you’re getting the effect I’m talking about, open a door, turn the ‘rotor’ in the latch with a screw driver, this simulates the door closing and latching, it will click locked, close the door gently, it should NOT close, but will come to a hard stop, is this what’s happening with your faulty rear door?? To release, press the button on the outside handle or operate the inside release, you will hear the latch release and you will able to close the door as normal

With your faulty rear door …
• with it ajar, try pressing the outside button fully or operating the inside release all the way, if it clicks/releases, it was latched
• see if you can turn the rotor with a screw driver, if not, it’s already in the latched position, it shouldn’t be
• make sure the latch, outside release mechanism, inside release mechanism are all well lubricated

:thumbright:
Si
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Steve
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Post by Steve »

Thanks Terry/ Si,

Thats a good process for me to go through Si to eliminate certain things that could be to blame. I know I didnt explain the symptoms particularly well to be honest..... Everything is tight etc and youve got me thinking now Si..... My natural tendancy to fiddle means I have been clicking the wheel round in the door mech to make sure its turning, then trying to shut the door. I bet you it thinks its shut so the wheel wont turn and thats why its like hitting a wall. If I press the button on the handle after Ive clicked the wheel round, it should 'reset' the mech and then should shut??? Is that why sometimes it shuts and sometimes it doesnt maybe?? The fiddling started because the door doesnt shut as smoothly as the others so maybe just needs the plate adjusting slightly.....

Cheers Steve :read2: :thumbright:
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Adrian Worman
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Post by Adrian Worman »

Did the door bounce back or need slamming to shut then Steve? Before you played with the latch.
Even if the pins aren't worn the door will still sag a little over time, more so on a pillar less sedan, try moving the door hinge plates outwards about an 1/8" and it should help. How's the door panel alignment?
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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

Pull the adjustment out so the latch works before the door is fully flush. Then move it back until the door will shut when lined up with the quarter panel.
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Post by shovelheadrob »

I think Si has the answer, check the operation of the catch with the door open, lubricate if neccessary (Terry will come & help with this if needed), the adjustment cannot change so it has to be in the operation.
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Steve
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Post by Steve »

Sorted...... Mixture of all the suggestions and done. Easiest way Ive found is to loosen the striker plate slightly, push door closed with button depressed then when flush with body panels, release the button and see if it stays in position. Mine didnt so I just opened the door and moved the plate out a fraction of an inch, fully tightened it and closed the door again. Perfect... Door closes easily and goes to the second click while holding the door firmly shut.

Thanks for helping me to apply a bit of logic...eventually!

Cheers Steve :thumbright:
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terryr
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Post by terryr »

thats good ,save me coming over to lube you up :shock:
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Charger
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Post by Charger »

top job Steve :thumbright:
Si
1970 Charger 500
383 | 4bbl | 727 column | PAS | PAB | buckets/buddy - check out my photos HERE

If you don't want another same old brand-new car ... you could be DODGE MATERIAL

1970 Dodge Charger Registry - https://www.1970chargerregistry.com/
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