Paints - confused and have a lot of questions!

[VGVIP]

Hi All.

Recently got a water based metallic that is a reasonable match for the colour of the VG and some clear in rattle cans from Brown Bros. to tidy up some crusty bits behind and beneath the bumpers.

Came out as a reasonable match, so while I was at it I resprayed the lower rear quarter under the petrol filler where I had cut some rust out a few years ago at the bottom of the panel. At the time I had got what was also then a reasonable match in a rattle can from Brown Bros. They were selling cellulose (I think) in rattle cans then.
Anyway the clear is the same product as far as I can tell.
The reason I resprayed this part was because the clear was discoloured by spilled petrol.

So question here is can you get a decent petrol resistant clear coat in a rattle can?

Am now getting silly ideas of respraying more as the years of sitting out in all weather are having the expected result with lots of bubbles and other rust creeping in.
Thinking of using a HVLP setup for anything larger than the little touch ups done to date.

So limiting the subject and questions to paint related and keeping in mind that I have found a reasonable colour match from a relatively modern paint code.

I think the last paint job was done in '95. And I do not know what paint type was used.
Can water based paint be applied directly to other paint types like 2K by light sanding and cleaning of the current clear coat in areas that don't require repairs or will it react or fail to adhere? Thinking of repairing what is needed and feathering in to the remainder of the panel.

Also need to be reasonable safety and environmentally conscious, well at least as best as I can with such a toxic subject. So from what little I know 2K is out of the question.... But is water based paint just as nasty?
Painting would be done in a garage that is about 40m from the nearest building and with nothing but open farm land on the other 3 sides.

What clear coat options are available to apply to a water based metallic that give a good finish and are not soft and easily affected like the stuff I have used in the rattle can?

Thanks

[autofetish]

They were selling cellulose (I think) in rattle cans then.
It could have been but was more likely acrylic

Anyway the clear is the same product as far as I can tell.

It will be over a water based paint the clear is normal acrylic the same type you would paint over a non water based paint

I resprayed this part was because the clear was discoloured by spilled petrol.
Happens to power coat also its a bitch

So question here is can you get a decent petrol resistant clear coat in a rattle can?

I was also a rattle can man but i did make the swap 2 years ago.
Cost!! i have save a fortune i brought a cheap gun and get a little compressor and buy it in 1l tins and mix yourself. Even if i only have to paint i wing mirror i mix just the amount i need.

Clear coat petrol free. they all say it on the tin but never going to be.
The problem is you need a 2 part clear you mix and they go hard when mix. So you can look for a can with a mix button on bottom(once pressed will activate MIX the 2 mixtures together. Or get a gun and mix yourself.
I have used this to paint over a metalic paint i painted the whole underside of my car great stuff and hard as nails when cured.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2k-Clear-lacq ... 439ffd6119



So limiting the subject and questions to paint related and keeping in mind that I have found a reasonable colour match from a relatively modern paint code.

Yes but you have to paint a agrilic paint over the top so why not just get a acrylic base in the first place.

I think the last paint job was done in '95. And I do not know what paint type was used.

Any good paint shop will come out with Specail camera and take photo this will give them a mix list for best match they will then match.


Can water based paint be applied directly to other paint types like 2K by light sanding and cleaning of the current clear coat in areas that don't require repairs or will it react or fail to adhere? Thinking of repairing what is needed and feathering in to the remainder of the panel.

Need to ask a painter buy why even try get acrylic paint it will work

Also need to be reasonable safety and environmentally conscious, well at least as best as I can with such a toxic subject. So from what little I know 2K is out of the question....

Its good stuff buy it

But is water based paint just as nasty?

A friend who paints large motor in a large company moved over to water based. His veiw was ( when my body takes in stinky paint my body knows it bad and gets it out my system. When i breath in water based paint my body thinks its water ) good point !


Painting would be done in a garage that is about 40m from the nearest building and with nothing but open farm land on the other 3 sides.



What clear coat options are available to apply to a water based metallic that give a good finish and are not soft and easily affected like the stuff I have used in the rattle can?


2K



New cars painted with environmentally friendly (water based paint are painted over the top with clear 2k

They have to be 2k or they would come off when it rains




Thanks

[autofetish]

[VGVIP]

Thanks Autofetish.

Getting a more confused about the paint types after looking at the ebay link you sent, the seller has 'non isocyanate' 2K is that the most poisonous stuff in 2K paints?

What are the basic paint types?
- Cellulose
- 2K - are all 2K paints Acrylic and are all Acrylic paints 2K?
- Water based

Are there others? Am I completely wrong. Finding some of the info on the web confusing... maybe there are different names for the same thing.

Thanks

[autofetish]

Thanks Autofetish.

Getting a more confused about the paint types after looking at the ebay link you sent, the seller has 'non isocyanate' 2K is that the most poisonous stuff in 2K paints?

where a 3m £20 mask you wont smell a thing

What are the basic paint types?
- Cellulose
- 2K - are all 2K paints Acrylic and are all Acrylic paints 2K?
- Water based

Correct

Are there others?
Yes but you dont need to know there not used in normal car body prep

Am I completely wrong. Finding some of the info on the web confusing... maybe there are different names for the same thing.


http://www.austinsevenfriends.com/paint.htm

Read this

Thanks

[VGVIP]

Thanks mate. Am learning all the time.
Will do some more reading.

[autofetish]

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... ight=paint

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... ight=paint



Blue writeing when clicked will open more info
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm


Get some pictures up of how you works getting on.

We love a pic

I spray 2K paint in my house....

[VGVIP]

interesting reading...
and while surfing I am now wondering what people are referring to as 1K when they mention cellulose and 2K in the same breath.
is this a serious option for a diy daily driver that I want to look respectable?

are the 1k clears the same as I have in rattle cans. will they be more scratch resistant than the rattle cans. I take what you have already said about 2K clear you linked to above but I have already put enough poison in my body in the name of 'recreation' to be cautious at the age of 40.... I want to live a bit longer now.

[autofetish]

1K Coating vs. 2K Coatings
There is often confusion and misuse of terms when it comes to describing automotive coatings. Here are some brief definitions that we hope will dispel the confusion.
NOTE: Typically the term "catalyst" is used separately from the terms "activator" and "hardener" (as in epoxy catalyst) because a catalyst does not have isocyanates.
1K: This is a term used to describe a coating that does not require a hardener, catalyst or activator. For example, this term can be used to describe “single-component” paints and all of the aerosol paints we sell (with the exception of the Spray Max products). NOTE: You may have seen “1K” and “Single-Stage” used interchangeably. See definition of “Single-Stage” below.
2K: This describes a coating that needs to be mixed with a hardener, catalyst or activator. This can be used to describe our Eastwood finishes, “two-component” paints and other urethane finishes.
One/Single-Stage: Used to describe a coating that does not require a clear top coat. A single-stage coating may or may not require a catalyst, hardener or activator. Plus, a clear top coat may be added in many cases for enhanced durability or depth.
Two-Stage: Describes a coating system that requires both base and clear coats. This is more commonly referred to as "basecoat/clearcoat" or "BC/CC". The coats of base and clear may or may not require a catalyst, hardener or activator.

[autofetish]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Respirator ... 43b91f59c1

You know when your sick you put your head over a bowl with a towel with vapour plant smell. Well you could put that mask on and do the same but with an oil drum full of burning tyres and brake fluid and you would not smell a thing. Read some of the workshop and how others paint things Mr norms is a great tread about painting

Ps. Regarding that scratch resistance clear its scratch resistant so if you f up and have to sand it off its a bitch. A good quity 2k clear will be fine. The cheap 2k clears have a slight yellow tinge about them. So buy good quality paint form good brands.

[autofetish]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2K-aerosol-Sp ... 3a81cf557c


As clear in a can goes this is very good I have used. It's a 2k with a button on bottom that once pressed mixes a harder in and you have a time limit till its hard. Great just very expensive in the long tirm and when the last bit come out the can and forms droplets on part. You will want to burn car. Spray gun will spray like a full can always


The rest are links for good brands I have used. Search harder for better price and the product you need

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIPA-CC6-2K-C ... 2328802a32

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-POL-2K-Clea ... 3a610ba7d1

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Omi-Cron-2k-C ... 3ca3c8ace8

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clear-Lacquer ... 439988afe3
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STANDOX-STAND ... 4cf876a9d0

[autofetish]

[Jeff]

I have now gone over totally to WB paint, airbrushing and full resprays.

If you need answers, let me know.

Jeff

[VGVIP]

Thanks Jeff.

Have ordered some water based metallic today along with Upol 2085 1k clear and have collected an old boot lid to prep and practice on.

So expect in the next week or so I'll have buggered it up completely and will have more questions before i strip it all back and try again.
:-)

If I can figure it out and get good results I can order more on the base and clear or try something else.

One question for now though.
Do you have any experience of the Upol system 20:85 1K clear?

Thanks for your help

[Jeff]

Upol clear is what a lot of the scratch and ding doctors use.

I have used it in the past, 1K stays soft for a very long time. So if you load a lot on, in time it will crack or craze as the underlying coats will dry slower than the top coats.

If I were you, go for some 2K clear, easier to use, flows nice and hardens real quick. And you will only need 1 1/2 coats.