I agree, you can be sure Barton doesn't use cheapo rods in his race motors, but the point is not everyone is building a race motor so why not buy the best parts possible that fit your budget and purpose (as long as they are fit for that purpose). Let's face it, although 450HP is a lot of HP, it's not exactly a maximum stressed engine at 7 litres.
If you've got a stock block SB, then 600HP is probably the limit anyway without splitting the block, so why fill it with 700HP components. Get an R3.
To be honest the MP stroker crank is universally acknowledged amongst SB enthusiasts as a golden exception to the usually dependable rule that MP parts are absolute rubbish! Of course it is not made by MP, in fact I think it may even be made by SCAT! (I'll check my box!)
small block stroker kits
Moderator: Moderators
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Anonymous
A lot of these cars change hands, not regular but they do, peoples plans change, how many people take the good stuff out and fit lower HP stuff cos they don't go to the track anymore? no one.
All the motors that have anything in them are worth more, so you get more ? back, i'm not saying you ever get back what you put in, some do some don't.
I agree Gavin that not everyone is building a race motor, but try telling that to Bartons, they really push the buyer to fit the best, now this i guess is for several reasons, one is if the motor is lets say for want of better wording operating at 50% less than it was built for then Barton is going to be very unlucky if that motor breaks and it's probably going to be down to the jockey anyway which they can wriggle out of, it's probable that the other reason is profit margin but who knows.
All i'm saying is put the best into the short motor and it will repay time and time again, do it once, do it right, you got it forever
All the motors that have anything in them are worth more, so you get more ? back, i'm not saying you ever get back what you put in, some do some don't.
I agree Gavin that not everyone is building a race motor, but try telling that to Bartons, they really push the buyer to fit the best, now this i guess is for several reasons, one is if the motor is lets say for want of better wording operating at 50% less than it was built for then Barton is going to be very unlucky if that motor breaks and it's probably going to be down to the jockey anyway which they can wriggle out of, it's probable that the other reason is profit margin but who knows.
All i'm saying is put the best into the short motor and it will repay time and time again, do it once, do it right, you got it forever
Neil, I am with you mate, I totally agree about doing it right the first time, spending the most you can afford on the best parts. There is absolutely no point in spoiling the ship for a ha'peth of tar, so to speak!! And most of us will need some headroom to grow into as well 
As you say , plans have a habit of changing!!!
All I am saying really is we all have to stop somewhere!! I got my rotating assy from Barton, so I know he does push to get the best possible (he wanted to bush the lifter bores on my block, but I had to draw the line......will it come back to bite me? I hope not!).
But like I said in my first post, if people want to buy cheap, then do the research, ask around, think hard, and check the parts, because there are junk parts out there, but there are good cheap parts too, and usually they will work fine as long as your expectations are realistic!
As you say , plans have a habit of changing!!!All I am saying really is we all have to stop somewhere!! I got my rotating assy from Barton, so I know he does push to get the best possible (he wanted to bush the lifter bores on my block, but I had to draw the line......will it come back to bite me? I hope not!).
But like I said in my first post, if people want to buy cheap, then do the research, ask around, think hard, and check the parts, because there are junk parts out there, but there are good cheap parts too, and usually they will work fine as long as your expectations are realistic!
Gavin Chisholm - 414ci W2 Stroker SmallBlock Panther Pink '71 Challenger convertible - in bits
Car progress can be viewed here
Car progress can be viewed here
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Good post, very interesting to see how information is somewhat twisted as it travels.....
1st Barton uses Oliver rods in all his big motors not Eagle's, in fact he has I think the 7.200 rod that's made exclusively for him by Oliver.
Some of your points are well taken, you can over build and engine, we mostly see the reverse and parts scattered all over the track but, a good engine builder should be able to build what your looking for and it should stay together.
See:
http://cuda66273.proboards23.com/index. ... 1103134689
Yes I do dislike the Chinese invasion, plagerism and black marketing of American, English and any other country's technology and or Products.
It's your money and you have the right to spend it on whatever and with whomever you wish. If you think you'll get as good or better performance from a Chinese Ground MP Cam than a cam from Racer Brown then you should do that, but I recommend you avoid guy's like me in the 1st round and don't expect us not to show up for the final, we'll be there with full oil pressure and firing on all 8 cylinders.
On this Chinese stuff we look at the stack principle, your correct no one part is that far off, rods are a couple of thou, pistons are a couple of thou, crank throws maybe a little more....rocker arms aren't quite right....pretty soon you have the "Stack Principle" going on....all these little variations and you end up with a less than perfect combination, with less than serious potential...your one of the "also rans"...first round foder we call them, inconsistent, can't dial it, less than stellar overall performance.
Scat has been bringing stuff in for years from China, in fact all those Mopar cast cranks are SCAT, Made in China. You can't buy them from SCAT because of a contract they have with MP to control the marketing.
The quality issues of Chinese performance parts is well documented, Most and say MOST, not all, is less than desirable.
Someone said "They Look Good"....that must have been Superman with his x-ray vision, what does "Look Good" mean?
Someone mentioned "American's are afraid of China taking over from them as the worlds manufacturing leader"....where have you been? China took over that title 2 years ago.
Someone said they had a Chinese crank that was only off a couple of 10.000, I recently was at the crank shop where they were balancing a CAT crank....4 sticks of heavy metal and it had to be turned to spec, the bill at the shop was over $600.00, now that's good way to save money! I've seen some good Eagle stuff and I've seen some stuff hwere the engine builder had to order 3 sets of rods to get a set of 8 that matched, but who checks that stuff anyhow...a rod is a rod is a rod, they look good.
Hey they come with ARP Bolts, we're good to go.....sort of, use a stretch gauge on those $69.00 bolts, you'll just throw them away and order a set of Pro ARP bolts at $170 so the caps are loaded evenly, again whoever checks that nonsence.....We do and that's why we don't waste our shop time on that stuff.
Will you pay us $600 to balance your new crank?
Will you pay us to stretch gauge every rod bolt and keep replacing them until we can find 16 the same?
Will you pay us to re-bush and center to center the rods?
Wil you pay us to re-size the rods after we install good bolts and tork to spec or is close good enough.
Engine builders are only as good as the last engine that puked it's guts all over the race track, nobody remembers the 3000 perfect pieces you built over the last 25 years, only the one that grunted and dropped it's jewels all over the starting line 4 years ago.
Reputation is everything in this business, we have never grenaded a motor on any race track in 10 years, we've blown rusted freeze plugs out, dropped cheap convertors in the burn out box, busted drive lines, shredded tires, ripped off rear bumpers, broken weak rear ends but the motors keep running and they're all built with American parts that we can depend on.
Would you risk your reputation, your livelyhood and your job on Chinese parts, if they fail you fail....not my reputation thank you.
I'd rather push a Honda than drive an American Muscle Car full of parts Made in Chin-Ahhhh sooo.
Americans always want more for less, we created the Chinese industrial invasion through our own greed. Now it's biting us hard.
Read this page, it's not just me who's concerned about this, pay special attention to the commentary at the bottom of the page.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/copycatscatpack.html
1st Barton uses Oliver rods in all his big motors not Eagle's, in fact he has I think the 7.200 rod that's made exclusively for him by Oliver.
Some of your points are well taken, you can over build and engine, we mostly see the reverse and parts scattered all over the track but, a good engine builder should be able to build what your looking for and it should stay together.
See:
http://cuda66273.proboards23.com/index. ... 1103134689
Yes I do dislike the Chinese invasion, plagerism and black marketing of American, English and any other country's technology and or Products.
It's your money and you have the right to spend it on whatever and with whomever you wish. If you think you'll get as good or better performance from a Chinese Ground MP Cam than a cam from Racer Brown then you should do that, but I recommend you avoid guy's like me in the 1st round and don't expect us not to show up for the final, we'll be there with full oil pressure and firing on all 8 cylinders.
On this Chinese stuff we look at the stack principle, your correct no one part is that far off, rods are a couple of thou, pistons are a couple of thou, crank throws maybe a little more....rocker arms aren't quite right....pretty soon you have the "Stack Principle" going on....all these little variations and you end up with a less than perfect combination, with less than serious potential...your one of the "also rans"...first round foder we call them, inconsistent, can't dial it, less than stellar overall performance.
Scat has been bringing stuff in for years from China, in fact all those Mopar cast cranks are SCAT, Made in China. You can't buy them from SCAT because of a contract they have with MP to control the marketing.
The quality issues of Chinese performance parts is well documented, Most and say MOST, not all, is less than desirable.
Someone said "They Look Good"....that must have been Superman with his x-ray vision, what does "Look Good" mean?
Someone mentioned "American's are afraid of China taking over from them as the worlds manufacturing leader"....where have you been? China took over that title 2 years ago.
Someone said they had a Chinese crank that was only off a couple of 10.000, I recently was at the crank shop where they were balancing a CAT crank....4 sticks of heavy metal and it had to be turned to spec, the bill at the shop was over $600.00, now that's good way to save money! I've seen some good Eagle stuff and I've seen some stuff hwere the engine builder had to order 3 sets of rods to get a set of 8 that matched, but who checks that stuff anyhow...a rod is a rod is a rod, they look good.
Hey they come with ARP Bolts, we're good to go.....sort of, use a stretch gauge on those $69.00 bolts, you'll just throw them away and order a set of Pro ARP bolts at $170 so the caps are loaded evenly, again whoever checks that nonsence.....We do and that's why we don't waste our shop time on that stuff.
Will you pay us $600 to balance your new crank?
Will you pay us to stretch gauge every rod bolt and keep replacing them until we can find 16 the same?
Will you pay us to re-bush and center to center the rods?
Wil you pay us to re-size the rods after we install good bolts and tork to spec or is close good enough.
Engine builders are only as good as the last engine that puked it's guts all over the race track, nobody remembers the 3000 perfect pieces you built over the last 25 years, only the one that grunted and dropped it's jewels all over the starting line 4 years ago.
Reputation is everything in this business, we have never grenaded a motor on any race track in 10 years, we've blown rusted freeze plugs out, dropped cheap convertors in the burn out box, busted drive lines, shredded tires, ripped off rear bumpers, broken weak rear ends but the motors keep running and they're all built with American parts that we can depend on.
Would you risk your reputation, your livelyhood and your job on Chinese parts, if they fail you fail....not my reputation thank you.
I'd rather push a Honda than drive an American Muscle Car full of parts Made in Chin-Ahhhh sooo.
Americans always want more for less, we created the Chinese industrial invasion through our own greed. Now it's biting us hard.
Read this page, it's not just me who's concerned about this, pay special attention to the commentary at the bottom of the page.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/copycatscatpack.html
Don, I didn't catch whoever said Barton used Eagle rods in his big motors, but I did say that his Ray Barton H-Beam On-Trac rods that I have in my garage for my SB stroker are made by Scat t.....I can post the pics if necessary.
My point was that even Barton realises (just about!) that not everyone can afford $12k for a motor, and you can still have a nice street motor for a lot less....just don't expect to run in SS with it!
Dulcich has built some very nice motors with cheap parts, but he puts a lot of thought into the right parts and gets bang for the buck, something we all need to do....especially living over here in the UK!!
If I lived in the US I could have afforded even nicer parts!!
My point was that even Barton realises (just about!) that not everyone can afford $12k for a motor, and you can still have a nice street motor for a lot less....just don't expect to run in SS with it!
Dulcich has built some very nice motors with cheap parts, but he puts a lot of thought into the right parts and gets bang for the buck, something we all need to do....especially living over here in the UK!!
If I lived in the US I could have afforded even nicer parts!!
Gavin Chisholm - 414ci W2 Stroker SmallBlock Panther Pink '71 Challenger convertible - in bits
Car progress can be viewed here
Car progress can be viewed here
The other consideration is 90% of the cars over here run on the street with some track time, the drag thing is nothing like as big as the States for 'normal' cars most are compromise cars.
Dave R's car is one you should read about, he really has managed to get a best of both worlds set up, runs great numbers on the track and handles really well on the street as well, a really well thought through combo that I know he has spent a huge amount of time and effort over to get it there.
Dave R's car is one you should read about, he really has managed to get a best of both worlds set up, runs great numbers on the track and handles really well on the street as well, a really well thought through combo that I know he has spent a huge amount of time and effort over to get it there.
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Anonymous
Most engine shops will build you want you want to fit your budget, nothing wrong with that. A GOOD engine shop will not build you a RACE Motor using cheap Chinese imported parts.
If your building a street motor why would you waste your money on aftermarket rods anyhow???
My 450+ HP 318 runs the original 273 Mopar rods that came in the car 40 years and 188,000 miles ago. This rod is the smallest rod Mopar ever built beams about the size of your driving finger. As long as you understand the limits of the equipment, you'll have no issues with stock rods.
I shift my motor at 6200, launch at 3600 off a studder box and foot brake, it's made probably 2000 passes and has never had an issue. Cast Crank, stock rods, 273 Iron Heads, flat tappet solid lifter Racer Brown Cam. I've taken it to 7,000 RPM on several occasions, it slows down due to head flow, but it takes the RPM with no problems, I don't recommend it as I only do this to teach that motor a lesson when it makes me red light.... Yes I can be stupid at times, but it always seems appropriate punishment for the beast at the time.
So now your scratching your sit-on and going ...how does he do that?
It's a simple deal guy's.... #1 - Rods don't break so it doesn't matter what rod you use if you know the limits.
99% of all broken rods we see are not a rod problem; the broken rod is the end result of some other issue. Usually rod bolts, excessive piston weight ripping the rod apart or bearing failure.
The more RPM you make and the heavier the piston, weaker the rod bolts the more liable you are to have a rod failure, but I repeat it's not the rod.
If you want to build a real nice street motor on a budget then spend your money on high quality LIGHT pistons and a good set of ARP Pro Bolts. Spend a little extra making sure that the crank journals are perfect and the balance job is done right on a computerized balancer, bearing clearance is critical and proper oiling hole chamfering. If you don't have access to a shop that can do it right then order a balanced rotating assembly from Neil and we'll do it all here and send it over ready for you to bolt into your block.
You might build a 500 HP street motor but your only going to use that 500HP once or twice a year at your drag racing events, the rest of the time your going to use about 1/2 the available power at best.
I'll let you in on a little secret on cranks, cast cranks will hold ton's of power. They're very forgiving, they flex and rebound quickly and for a street motor or mild bracket car running in the 11's or 12's they work fine.... how many of you guy's are running in the 9's and 10's with your street cars?
I mentioned flex, this is one disadvantage of a cast crank, they flex or bend on compression and on the power stroke, which reduces the value of each stroke. Using a $4000 billet crank of course allows the least amount of flex therefore builds the most power and the more compression and power you build the more important this becomes, beside the obvious rotating mass advantage of a light weight crank. Forged cranks are very hard and therefore brittle, the flex is greatly reduced but because of the brittle material, you?re more likely to crank the crank. It's almost impossible to find a SB Mopar Forged 340 crank here anymore, everyone we get is cracked, and even though they came out of running motors, they're cracked and not re-useable. WHY?....simple it's detonation, they're so brittle that any detonation is capable of cracking the crank.
Remember...detonation is your worst enemy, it'll destroy a nice set of pistons, break rings, break your crank and your wallet.
Just because a crank says "Forged" it doesn't make it bullet proof, you have to know how brittle it is or how soft it is, is it flexing just like a cast crank? Is it so brittle that load of bad gas and excessive pressure on the loud pedal will crack it under detonation?
The metallurgy of the Chinese cranks and rods just isn't there yet, just Looking good isn't enough, is the consistency there? Where's there R&D to determine exactly where the hardness needs to be?
American Company's like Crower, Callies, Carrillo Oliver etc. have spent a lifetime and a small fortune designing, building and testing their components to give you the best possible part for a specific application. This may not be your application and to buy a set of Oliver Billet Titanium rods and a Sonny Bryant Crank for your 440 Road Runner streetcar would be ridiculous. The Chinese have stolen and plagiarized the lifelong work of these American family's who mortgaged their homes and risked there business's to develop and test these designs....I know some of these people personally and I've listened to the story's of designs gone bad and near failures of these company's from spending too much on R&D to make the perfect part....then along comes Woo Flung Dung screaming "We Make Cheapa".."Velly good part"...."Sam Ting"..I call Bull-Brown stuff, they're not the same and in most cases worse than stock. If you did this in the USA, you'd be in court for Plagiarism and out of business in a heartbeat. Do it in China and your a International hero for stimulating world trade.... more brown stuff, they're thieves no better than a crack head stealing your credit card to buy drugs. The people who work hard for Callies, Diamond, Oliver and dozens of others are my suppliers and my friends. I know their family's and I know how hard they've worked for decades to develop and produce their products. Buying Chinese is like stabbing the Guy's that have stood behind me in my racing and business career straight in the back and twisting the knife.
So.....is the Chinese connection really the way to go? IMO No, I wouldn?t even consider it for a street-light bracket car, a good set of Mopar reworked stock rods, light pistons and good bolts will get the job done for 99% of you Guy's and our own customers here.
If your going to build a race motor then build a real race motor, write a check and put the hammer down. If you building a street motor then use common sense, set a goal and ask someone who understands the limitations of the parts to help you achieve that goal without re-mortgaging your house to buy parts you don't need and help build a wasteful and dishonest Chinese Manufacturing Empire.
Callies has a great program with there new CompStar Rod line.... they have the steel mixed and poured into blank chunks here to their spec, they then send the chunks to China to have them hammered into a rough forging, the forgings are then returned to the USA to be machined to Callies spec. So now you have a rod with American spec metallurgy, Chinese forged, American machining, I think that's fine and from the samples they've sent me they "Look" good, the metallurgy report is the same as their High Dollar rods, Machining is impeccable and they're priced just slightly higher than the all Chinese Mystery rods.
We hope that we'll have them in Mopar journal size in 2006.
IMO China doesn't have the technology or expertise to build precision parts, it's difficult to take a guy that has spent most of his life walking behind a ox in a rice patty and after 2 days of training give him a crank to machine, he doesn't even know what he's making.
Am I against World Trade? ....absolutely not, I am against foreign imports that have plagiarized American technology, have deceptive labeling, make false statements and claims of quality. I'm really PO'd at our Government for not policing these deceptive practices and allowing Old Wong Chung Chow to rape our technology totally un-checked.
I'd still rather push a Honda than fill my Classic American Mopar with Chinese parts.....just my opinion
If your building a street motor why would you waste your money on aftermarket rods anyhow???
My 450+ HP 318 runs the original 273 Mopar rods that came in the car 40 years and 188,000 miles ago. This rod is the smallest rod Mopar ever built beams about the size of your driving finger. As long as you understand the limits of the equipment, you'll have no issues with stock rods.
I shift my motor at 6200, launch at 3600 off a studder box and foot brake, it's made probably 2000 passes and has never had an issue. Cast Crank, stock rods, 273 Iron Heads, flat tappet solid lifter Racer Brown Cam. I've taken it to 7,000 RPM on several occasions, it slows down due to head flow, but it takes the RPM with no problems, I don't recommend it as I only do this to teach that motor a lesson when it makes me red light.... Yes I can be stupid at times, but it always seems appropriate punishment for the beast at the time.
So now your scratching your sit-on and going ...how does he do that?
It's a simple deal guy's.... #1 - Rods don't break so it doesn't matter what rod you use if you know the limits.
99% of all broken rods we see are not a rod problem; the broken rod is the end result of some other issue. Usually rod bolts, excessive piston weight ripping the rod apart or bearing failure.
The more RPM you make and the heavier the piston, weaker the rod bolts the more liable you are to have a rod failure, but I repeat it's not the rod.
If you want to build a real nice street motor on a budget then spend your money on high quality LIGHT pistons and a good set of ARP Pro Bolts. Spend a little extra making sure that the crank journals are perfect and the balance job is done right on a computerized balancer, bearing clearance is critical and proper oiling hole chamfering. If you don't have access to a shop that can do it right then order a balanced rotating assembly from Neil and we'll do it all here and send it over ready for you to bolt into your block.
You might build a 500 HP street motor but your only going to use that 500HP once or twice a year at your drag racing events, the rest of the time your going to use about 1/2 the available power at best.
I'll let you in on a little secret on cranks, cast cranks will hold ton's of power. They're very forgiving, they flex and rebound quickly and for a street motor or mild bracket car running in the 11's or 12's they work fine.... how many of you guy's are running in the 9's and 10's with your street cars?
I mentioned flex, this is one disadvantage of a cast crank, they flex or bend on compression and on the power stroke, which reduces the value of each stroke. Using a $4000 billet crank of course allows the least amount of flex therefore builds the most power and the more compression and power you build the more important this becomes, beside the obvious rotating mass advantage of a light weight crank. Forged cranks are very hard and therefore brittle, the flex is greatly reduced but because of the brittle material, you?re more likely to crank the crank. It's almost impossible to find a SB Mopar Forged 340 crank here anymore, everyone we get is cracked, and even though they came out of running motors, they're cracked and not re-useable. WHY?....simple it's detonation, they're so brittle that any detonation is capable of cracking the crank.
Remember...detonation is your worst enemy, it'll destroy a nice set of pistons, break rings, break your crank and your wallet.
Just because a crank says "Forged" it doesn't make it bullet proof, you have to know how brittle it is or how soft it is, is it flexing just like a cast crank? Is it so brittle that load of bad gas and excessive pressure on the loud pedal will crack it under detonation?
The metallurgy of the Chinese cranks and rods just isn't there yet, just Looking good isn't enough, is the consistency there? Where's there R&D to determine exactly where the hardness needs to be?
American Company's like Crower, Callies, Carrillo Oliver etc. have spent a lifetime and a small fortune designing, building and testing their components to give you the best possible part for a specific application. This may not be your application and to buy a set of Oliver Billet Titanium rods and a Sonny Bryant Crank for your 440 Road Runner streetcar would be ridiculous. The Chinese have stolen and plagiarized the lifelong work of these American family's who mortgaged their homes and risked there business's to develop and test these designs....I know some of these people personally and I've listened to the story's of designs gone bad and near failures of these company's from spending too much on R&D to make the perfect part....then along comes Woo Flung Dung screaming "We Make Cheapa".."Velly good part"...."Sam Ting"..I call Bull-Brown stuff, they're not the same and in most cases worse than stock. If you did this in the USA, you'd be in court for Plagiarism and out of business in a heartbeat. Do it in China and your a International hero for stimulating world trade.... more brown stuff, they're thieves no better than a crack head stealing your credit card to buy drugs. The people who work hard for Callies, Diamond, Oliver and dozens of others are my suppliers and my friends. I know their family's and I know how hard they've worked for decades to develop and produce their products. Buying Chinese is like stabbing the Guy's that have stood behind me in my racing and business career straight in the back and twisting the knife.
So.....is the Chinese connection really the way to go? IMO No, I wouldn?t even consider it for a street-light bracket car, a good set of Mopar reworked stock rods, light pistons and good bolts will get the job done for 99% of you Guy's and our own customers here.
If your going to build a race motor then build a real race motor, write a check and put the hammer down. If you building a street motor then use common sense, set a goal and ask someone who understands the limitations of the parts to help you achieve that goal without re-mortgaging your house to buy parts you don't need and help build a wasteful and dishonest Chinese Manufacturing Empire.
Callies has a great program with there new CompStar Rod line.... they have the steel mixed and poured into blank chunks here to their spec, they then send the chunks to China to have them hammered into a rough forging, the forgings are then returned to the USA to be machined to Callies spec. So now you have a rod with American spec metallurgy, Chinese forged, American machining, I think that's fine and from the samples they've sent me they "Look" good, the metallurgy report is the same as their High Dollar rods, Machining is impeccable and they're priced just slightly higher than the all Chinese Mystery rods.
We hope that we'll have them in Mopar journal size in 2006.
IMO China doesn't have the technology or expertise to build precision parts, it's difficult to take a guy that has spent most of his life walking behind a ox in a rice patty and after 2 days of training give him a crank to machine, he doesn't even know what he's making.
Am I against World Trade? ....absolutely not, I am against foreign imports that have plagiarized American technology, have deceptive labeling, make false statements and claims of quality. I'm really PO'd at our Government for not policing these deceptive practices and allowing Old Wong Chung Chow to rape our technology totally un-checked.
I'd still rather push a Honda than fill my Classic American Mopar with Chinese parts.....just my opinion
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Anonymous
lol ! look what i found, they make everything, i was looing for scaffold tube and up it came, and later something for go karts, and up it ame again, these guys must sell everything !!!!! http://www.made-in-china.com/
i have to agree with some of you, chinese parts are ok for street driven show cars etc, but there's no way that i'm putting a cheap crank in my 440 when it gets nailed back together, i see my investment in the cuda as being worth alot more than a smal saving on a crank, i dont really care who makes that crank, but it sure as hell wont be the cheapest thing i can find !!!
ps, would like for xmas, nice new forged 440 crank, std stroke, might even consider a perfect +/- 0 used crank !!
i have to agree with some of you, chinese parts are ok for street driven show cars etc, but there's no way that i'm putting a cheap crank in my 440 when it gets nailed back together, i see my investment in the cuda as being worth alot more than a smal saving on a crank, i dont really care who makes that crank, but it sure as hell wont be the cheapest thing i can find !!!
ps, would like for xmas, nice new forged 440 crank, std stroke, might even consider a perfect +/- 0 used crank !!
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Anonymous
Check with Neil, I'm not sure if he's sold it yet but I'm shipping him a Norton (Parent Company of Callies) Forged Crank 440-standard/ standard, we're about to pull it out of our Dart.
New it's about a $1200 piece here. We used it one season running high 9.90's Motor had 90# oil pressure at the stripe on the final pass last Sunday, should be perfect. We got a deal on a RaceMaster from Callies with a 4.15 stroke so she's headed for the machine shop.
I'll check at the Machine Shop and see if we have any steel 440 cranks stuffed in the corner somewhere. I'll let Neil know what we have.
New it's about a $1200 piece here. We used it one season running high 9.90's Motor had 90# oil pressure at the stripe on the final pass last Sunday, should be perfect. We got a deal on a RaceMaster from Callies with a 4.15 stroke so she's headed for the machine shop.
I'll check at the Machine Shop and see if we have any steel 440 cranks stuffed in the corner somewhere. I'll let Neil know what we have.
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
