db's 66 Belvedere ***FOR SALE***

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db
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Post by db »

Well after a couple of hours with my angle grinder then the strip-wheel, then 3-4 hours With my Dremel, it's De-Ox time.
I worked it in with a toothbrush then laid loads more on with a paintbrush.
I've laid on several layers of clingfilm to stop it drying out and have a heater to keep it working.
I'll leave it now til tomorrow and see how it's done :thumbright:
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db
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Post by db »

The pain in my eyes subsided a bit this afternoon (from having 13 bits of metal pulled out of my eyes by a nice nurse this morning...) so I though I'd make the most of my day off sick.
The Deox had been on 24hrs and even with 3 layers of clingfilm had dried out quite a bit. The effect was still dramatic!
The gunge under the climgfilm came off with a lot of hot soapy water and a lot of scrubbing to reveal at least 3/4 of the rust had dissolved away.
VERY satisfying :D
You can see in the close-up that the deeper pitting is still rusty. I've painted a second coat on now and clingfilmed it. We'll see how that's done tomorrow...
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Rear panel 1st Deox. Close up.jpg
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Rear panel 1st Deox. washed down.jpg
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Rear panel 1st Deox. clingfilm off.jpg
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db
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Post by db »

I'm having a short break from de-rusting while I buy in an air die grinder- my Dremmel has packed in again!

So it's ENGINE REPAIR TIME :thumbright:

Chris at WASP is ringing me next week with price/ availability of the valvetrain stuff I need. I've just loaned a spring compressor from Ade J and I've got 'The Step By Step Guide To Blueprinting' by Rick Voegelin from my mate Dunk (not Dunc) who's built tons of race motors and currently maintains about £10m-worth of racecars for his ridiculously rich boss, so I have a good helper there!
I'll need a spring pressure tester please if anyone have one I could borrow? and I'll go through all the clearances etc.
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db
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Post by db »

Not great progress as the valve spring compressor didn't fit :(

I did get my two new rockers (thanks Blue) swapped for the two damaged ones. This was a struggle as the shafts are slightly ovalled where some of the clamps fit due to over-tightening (most likely by me).
I had to heat the rockers to get them off! I corrected the end of one shaft in the vice, not ideal practice I know but it was only a few thou and I was very gentle ;) The new rocker slid on so easily Scarlett did it!
We took the studs out aswell. Some were loose, some needed the two-nuts trick which Scarlett was well impressed with :D

I'm on the lookout for a longer reach compressor now, as well as a pressure measuring device...
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Scarlett unscrewing rocker stud.jpg
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Scarlett fitting rocker.jpg
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db
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Post by db »

Rear panel rust free at last!
This killed my Dremel twice and inspired me to buy an air die grinder, as well as several soakings in rust killer.

And... I now have a REV LIMITER! :thumbright: Thanks to Dave Billadeau for my new Mallory ignition
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Mallory ignition.jpg
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Rear panel rust free 02.jpg
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autofetish
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Post by autofetish »

Wow wow wow looking great
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db
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Post by db »

AAARRRGGGHHHHHH!!!! This is doing my head in now :evil:


The tool I borrowed from Ade J I got to fit eventually but had to give up before I damaged it- the valve didn't budge, it was bending the tool!
I borrowed two of the lever type. One Sykes-Pickavant, one German made so not cheap crap.
I had some success, I got the inlets out with the S-P one, but with a smack of a mallet to loose the tapers and enough strain to bend the tool frame and nearly put my shoulder out of joint I still couldn't shift the exhaust valves more than about 1mm! :?

ANY IDEAS??
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Pete
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Post by Pete »

You try getting the valves out of a Hemi.

We had to build a purpose-made tool that was strong enough to compress the springs whilst being able to straddle the wide head........
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.

Mopar by the grace of God
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autofetish
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Post by autofetish »

welded the tool end onto a large shach clamp and then put a t bar on Handel and wind it down slow have loads of clamps if you want to play with.

Welding capri up so in all weekend
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Pete
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Post by Pete »

That's what I did, Fettish!! :thumbright: :thumbright:
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.

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autofetish
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Post by autofetish »

Or pin the head to a bench weld a co2 sensor removal tool or cut a socket up weld it to a large pole . Hinge pole off wall/bench and push down


Or don't you have a milling Machine :idea1: :idea1:


Or head on floor in a door way large pole and bottle jack :idea1:
Last edited by autofetish on Sat Nov 16, 13 6:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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db
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Post by db »

Thanks boys, I'll look into that tomorrow :thumbright:
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ANTON
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Post by ANTON »

Stick them in the hydraulic press using the valve spring compressor part so you can remove the collets. I alway give them a very had smack with a large drift and club hammer to free the collets.
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db
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Post by db »

:thumbright:
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db
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Post by db »

Cracked it :D
Hydraulic press to the rescue. So easy I feel like I'm cheating!

While I was at it, I measured closed spring length. I used the press to fully open the valve (0.585"), then opened it further (very gently!) until the spring bottomed out.
I worked out I have 0.1" spring gap at full valve opening :thumbright:
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Valve removal the easy way.jpg
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