Roll Cage material

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Thu Jan 16, 14 12:08 pm

As always, Thank you guys. Most helpful.

Jon

Jon Connolly · Post by **Jon Connolly** » Thu Jan 16, 14 12:09 pm

All joking aside

I was there when Pete had his accident ... it was potentially a fatal accident and the design and installation of that cage was remarkable, it showed very little distortion and did what it was designed to do.

Whatever it cost, it was worth every penny

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Thu Jan 16, 14 12:21 pm

Sad to hear about this dart crash.
Any photos though? I'm always interested in this kind of stuff (for the right reasons)
It's why I want a cage in mine, just in case someone in a mondeo decides to T bone me.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Jan 16, 14 12:25 pm

Not really a reason, a Mondeo could T bone your daily. Will you cage that too???

Do you want a "Real" cage or a "For Show" cage?

I KNOW Pete builds top quality ones but this goes back again to purpose....

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Thu Jan 16, 14 12:32 pm

Pete wrote:Not really a reason, a Mondeo could T bone your daily. Will you cage that too???

Do you want a "Real" cage or a "For Show" cage?

I KNOW Pete builds top quality ones but this goes back again to purpose....

My daily driver is NCAP rated to quite a high level. Not sure this 1968 dart is... or My mk1 escort...

So, no. I will not be caging my company car

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Thu Jan 16, 14 12:33 pm

Pete wrote: Do you want a "Real" cage or a "For Show" cage?

A real cage that will take an impact.

Cheers

Jon

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Thu Jan 16, 14 6:14 pm

You only need a roll bar in CDS, tie it to the chassis where possible and onto the frame connectors, assuming you have them. If not i would get them fitted at the same time. Run a 10" converter, 750 holley, more than big enough and wont drink too much fuel and swap them race gears for 3.55 and you're good to go.
Just remember, you dont where a helmet on the street and it wont do your noggin any good to be hitting steel tubes.
Mick

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Jan 16, 14 6:22 pm

Mick wrote:You only need a roll bar in CDS, tie it to the chassis where possible and onto the frame connectors, assuming you have them.

If not i would get them fitted at the same time. Run a 10" converter, 750 holley, more than big enough and wont drink too much fuel and swap them race gears for 3.55 and you're good to go. Mick

Bang on!

Pete.S · Post by **Pete.S** » Fri Jan 17, 14 12:28 am

TyreFryer wrote:Don't know how true it is but I read on the US forums that chromoly cages work harden when used regularly on the street and develop cracks after a time.

You have heard correct.

Well sort of.

4130 will only crack and fracture at joints or welded areas if welded incorrectly.

People think you just need a tig to weld 4130, which is true but you cant just stomp on the loud pedal and weld it.

Too Fast a heat increase, too hot a weld puddle,too fast travel speed, too fast cold down or ultra cold conditions with no pre heat will all aim towards future cracks.

4130 is used in aero industries, top fuel cars, pro mods, pro stock ect for a good reason...

Its the superior material in both weight, strength and memory.

For the application in question both matireals are the correct just that one weighs less. And its the same scenario for the 25.4 spec with both options.

But when your running 10.05 all summer with a cds....................... lol.

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Fri Jan 17, 14 9:13 am

Mick wrote:You only need a roll bar in CDS, tie it to the chassis where possible and onto the frame connectors, assuming you have them. If not i would get them fitted at the same time. Run a 10" converter, 750 holley, more than big enough and wont drink too much fuel and swap them race gears for 3.55 and you're good to go.
Just remember, you dont where a helmet on the street and it wont do your noggin any good to be hitting steel tubes.
Mick

I hear what you're saying, I only needed a two car garage. But I bought a 4 car garage as I could :p