Wider wheels on the back, tubbing, moving spring hangers...

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Pete
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Post by Pete »

MilesnMiles wrote:What Justin said plus the axles aren't always centred under the car so a wide tyre will foul the arch on one side, but not the other :?
True, but in most cases it is the body panels that are out of whack - the axle will sit pretty much correct in a stock car chassis rails.

It was about 2" difference on my old Barracuda from side to side; completely wee'ed on my french fries..................
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PaulR
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Post by PaulR »

Have a look at Longshots Dart which he mini tubbed. You would never know this wasn't factory. Looked at this at the Nats. Top quality job.
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34732
GJUK
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Post by GJUK »

PaulR wrote:Have a look at Longshots Dart which he mini tubbed. You would never know this wasn't factory. Looked at this at the Nats. Top quality job.
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34732
I love that!
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Johnny Dart
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Post by Johnny Dart »

GJUK wrote:
PaulR wrote:Have a look at Longshots Dart which he mini tubbed. You would never know this wasn't factory. Looked at this at the Nats. Top quality job.
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34732
I love that!
I have 245/45/17 8 inch wide wheels, on lowered hitchkiss springs. It give me 10-15mm clearance to the spring, and arch lip. Also 245/45/17 is a common size , so its a lot cheaper tyre. Its worth choosing a common size tyre if it fits in with your requirements,they cost a lot less than a tyre size that only one or two models use.

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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

you can get a 7 inch wheel in there with some decent 8 inch wide tyres
unless you are going to race is it worth the hassle

wide tyres much more grip in the dry

less in the mud/wet/snow.

spread weight of car over greater contact patch has adverse effect on grip in adverse conditions. force applied to mud,snow,road= Mass / area

less force - means lower friction

this is why when it snowed in the 70s everyone got to work in their ford escort with skinny tyres and now nobody can get out the drive in their 3 series BMW with tyres 3 times as wide.

good for the track is not good allways for the street

Dave
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Les Szabo

Post by Les Szabo »

I would keep it stock, fit 3.55 gears for cruising at low rpms., this will also aid in your tyres not spinning up so much with the 4.10's on the street.

If you wanna take it down the track you could invest in a pair of 8 x 26" tall wrinkle slicks which should fit? they will work ok with 3.55's and Hook well with the power you currently have. Best of both worlds.

You won't gain anything at the track with those chassis mods to fit 10x28's unless you keep the 4.10's and put some more power into the motor, but then your back to higher rpm's for street. Street/Strip is a sacrifice, its what your willing to put up with, one for the other....as I said before, you can have both and still go fast with a power adder like N20, but you may end up with having to beef up your transmission up at some point.

Les
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Pete
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Post by Pete »

Could not put it better myself, Les.

What Axle Pattern do you have on the Dart?

Is it Stock or has it been modded to BBP?

This will impact a lot on choice of wheels and then tyres.....
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.

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Ivor
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Post by Ivor »

:iagree: Wise words from Uncle Les!
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Six-pack Speedshop
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Post by Six-pack Speedshop »

Les Szabo wrote: If you wanna take it down the track you could invest in a pair of 8 x 26" tall wrinkle slicks which should fit? they will work ok with 3.55's and Hook well with the power you currently have. Best of both worlds.
Les
True! On my own Duster I have 335 on a 11x17" rim but on the strip only a 9x26" slick with nor problem hooking up. Even at slightly higher air pressures (to give a more stable run for the wife behind the wheel) it hooks no problem. This is with a only slightly modded (cam/intake/carb/headers) 340 running 12.6's.

So another agree with Les.
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