Brilliant Dave, well done, that does look tight on space in the garage.
I await the wrinkle finish pics!
some engine progress
Moderator: Moderators
cheers matt painting is not a strong point...
black with runs a speciality
rocker geometry sorted dave
oh yes
now a narrower pattern and in the middle of the valve.
should be achiveing a thou or so more lift with less of a chance of problems
via some nice pushrods that turnip got me from Smiths Bros in the states
well worth it and not too expesnive at all give the other options
i.e new rockers and i didn't want to do that as i own a perfectly good set. or
machine work and lash caps (necessitating possible new head gasket and new retainers and locks) didn't want to do that either both specified by cam grinder diversion from the path could be unwise.
Dave
black with runs a specialityrocker geometry sorted dave
oh yes
now a narrower pattern and in the middle of the valve.
should be achiveing a thou or so more lift with less of a chance of problems
via some nice pushrods that turnip got me from Smiths Bros in the states
well worth it and not too expesnive at all give the other options
i.e new rockers and i didn't want to do that as i own a perfectly good set. or
machine work and lash caps (necessitating possible new head gasket and new retainers and locks) didn't want to do that either both specified by cam grinder diversion from the path could be unwise.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
-
autofetish
- Posts: 5599
- Joined: Sat May 21, 11 6:43 am
well i'm up againts it now
no days off until the nats
2 weekend days
need to get
exhaust sorted (joiner on the way)
needs fitting
need to complete cam break in had to abort due to blowing off the top collant pipe.
need to fit inner springs
tune 3 carbs
MOT
get it out a drive a couple of hundred to see what falls off
aaarrrrgh
no days off until the nats
2 weekend days
need to get
exhaust sorted (joiner on the way)
needs fitting
need to complete cam break in had to abort due to blowing off the top collant pipe.
need to fit inner springs
tune 3 carbs
MOT
get it out a drive a couple of hundred to see what falls off
aaarrrrgh
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Many thanks for the offer i may be in touch
in general the spec is tweaked for modern petrol but based on what chrylser/weber did in reference to chokes venturi idle jet and air, and main jet emulsion and air even down to the check ball drilling in the accelerator pump inlet
BUT
mine are 152G spanish with 4 progression holes and the orginals were bespoke model for chrylser australia built/specified by weber on a car sent to italy with 1 tiny and 1 massive progression hole
and the cam is different (which kinda negates everything i said above)
balancing is the main issue
redline do a wicked inlet manifold but the bloke they employed to put the studs in it was cross eyed
the middle weber is cocked lightly to the left which means i can't use the throttle shaft linking kit.....
so each is on a drop link with rose joints and left n right hand threads
i have a 4 tube vaccum unit for balancing so all is not lost
i do the left barrel of each followed by the right barrel of each
after i have set the timing of course.
its just a worry i'm pretty happy with what i need to do just no idea how long it will take this time given that everything is new/rebuilt
motor clutch/trans
Dave
in general the spec is tweaked for modern petrol but based on what chrylser/weber did in reference to chokes venturi idle jet and air, and main jet emulsion and air even down to the check ball drilling in the accelerator pump inlet
BUT
mine are 152G spanish with 4 progression holes and the orginals were bespoke model for chrylser australia built/specified by weber on a car sent to italy with 1 tiny and 1 massive progression hole
and the cam is different (which kinda negates everything i said above)
balancing is the main issue
redline do a wicked inlet manifold but the bloke they employed to put the studs in it was cross eyed
the middle weber is cocked lightly to the left which means i can't use the throttle shaft linking kit.....
so each is on a drop link with rose joints and left n right hand threads
i have a 4 tube vaccum unit for balancing so all is not lost
i do the left barrel of each followed by the right barrel of each
after i have set the timing of course.
its just a worry i'm pretty happy with what i need to do just no idea how long it will take this time given that everything is new/rebuilt
motor clutch/trans
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
the 152G was made for modern 16valve engines as they are more sensative to progression on Webers.
on these carbs are air bypass screws which should NOT be used to balance the carbs. the air bypass is another aid for tuning progression and should all be adjusted evenly.
balancing the carbs is the easy bit. setting the progression to work at various throttle position and engine loads can be fun.
even the float height can affect progression but makes very little/no difference at full throttle. the idle jet has a side drilling, as it is a mini emulsion tube, which can really help progression without changing the size of the hole for the fuel. (probably 55F8 standard). soldering the air hole and redrilling smaller is an easy way to tune these without buying loads of jets.
also did you know that the pump jet has an affect at full throttle as fuel is pulled through at high rpm. can be used as another aid to richen the top end
spitting and popping at certain throttle openings is usually a hole in the fueling somewhere. it's just knowing what to do to fill that hole.
on these carbs are air bypass screws which should NOT be used to balance the carbs. the air bypass is another aid for tuning progression and should all be adjusted evenly.
balancing the carbs is the easy bit. setting the progression to work at various throttle position and engine loads can be fun.
even the float height can affect progression but makes very little/no difference at full throttle. the idle jet has a side drilling, as it is a mini emulsion tube, which can really help progression without changing the size of the hole for the fuel. (probably 55F8 standard). soldering the air hole and redrilling smaller is an easy way to tune these without buying loads of jets.
also did you know that the pump jet has an affect at full throttle as fuel is pulled through at high rpm. can be used as another aid to richen the top end
spitting and popping at certain throttle openings is usually a hole in the fueling somewhere. it's just knowing what to do to fill that hole.
saturday
trip to the post office to pick up exhaust joiner from MIJ exhaust (nottingham check ebay)
see pics
sent them the measurements they sent the part
fitted like a glove
this is a temporary fix get MOT get to NATS
clamped that lot on and levered the rest of the system off the under floor with a big pole new headers are left by 3 inches and caused the system to kink up
did the second part of the cam run in. had to stop last time as had not done top radiator pipe up properly and it blew off
tweaked timing
wound the idle mix up a bit
no red headers this time.
then drove it round the street 3 times to see what fell off
2 spanners a screwdriver and a cloth were collected by my son Daniel
then back to get the Mrs to help with the bonnet
heavy and on but not aligned rear edge about 2 inches up (sort that later)
checked the wirining in the boot due to no number plate light
bootlid came off its hinges. TYPICAL...!!! had to undo the torsion bars
and leave a rope tied to the jack hanging out so i could open the boot (its a hatch boot no getting it open without a screwdriver or the torsion bars connected up.
set off 1/2 hour early for MOT
Observations
1) light flywheel and longer 1st makes it harder to pull away
2) clutch mechanism settles and leaves bite point 2.5 mm away from the floor when you are half way there....
3) its certainly eager
4) can't really exercise it yet as still just have single springs in.
MOT
advisories
front shocks wet (nothing wrong with them just covered in coolant, it doesn't eveoporate)
slight signs of the beginings of cracking to front brake hose outers need changing soon
low rear nearside brake
slight play in track rod ends (i usually gerase em first but forgot this time)
took it for a punt up the 316
won't idle
but puts a smile on my face
new gearbox has longer 1st and 2nd so for the first time ever they are quite worthwhile gears to use
highlights that i now need the rear to match the box.
the box was designed for a 3.23 or 3.5:1 rear end and mine is 2.92
but on the whole happy
boot lid now fixed
this week
put the other part of the springs in
reset the rocker clerances
dump the oil
and do some (s)miles
Dave
trip to the post office to pick up exhaust joiner from MIJ exhaust (nottingham check ebay)
see pics
sent them the measurements they sent the part
fitted like a glove
this is a temporary fix get MOT get to NATS
clamped that lot on and levered the rest of the system off the under floor with a big pole new headers are left by 3 inches and caused the system to kink up
did the second part of the cam run in. had to stop last time as had not done top radiator pipe up properly and it blew off
tweaked timing
wound the idle mix up a bit
no red headers this time.
then drove it round the street 3 times to see what fell off
2 spanners a screwdriver and a cloth were collected by my son Daniel
then back to get the Mrs to help with the bonnet
heavy and on but not aligned rear edge about 2 inches up (sort that later)
checked the wirining in the boot due to no number plate light
bootlid came off its hinges. TYPICAL...!!! had to undo the torsion bars
and leave a rope tied to the jack hanging out so i could open the boot (its a hatch boot no getting it open without a screwdriver or the torsion bars connected up.
set off 1/2 hour early for MOT
Observations
1) light flywheel and longer 1st makes it harder to pull away
2) clutch mechanism settles and leaves bite point 2.5 mm away from the floor when you are half way there....
3) its certainly eager
4) can't really exercise it yet as still just have single springs in.
MOT
advisories
front shocks wet (nothing wrong with them just covered in coolant, it doesn't eveoporate)
slight signs of the beginings of cracking to front brake hose outers need changing soon
low rear nearside brake
slight play in track rod ends (i usually gerase em first but forgot this time)
took it for a punt up the 316
won't idle
but puts a smile on my face
new gearbox has longer 1st and 2nd so for the first time ever they are quite worthwhile gears to use
highlights that i now need the rear to match the box.
the box was designed for a 3.23 or 3.5:1 rear end and mine is 2.92
but on the whole happy
boot lid now fixed
this week
put the other part of the springs in
reset the rocker clerances
dump the oil
and do some (s)miles
Dave
- Attachments
-
- y-piece - David Gray (2) (Mobile).jpg (29.21 KiB) Viewed 1801 times
-
- with notes (2) (Mobile).jpg (38.99 KiB) Viewed 1801 times
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying