1959/60 383 cid engine rebuild, advice please.

[JerryL]

Something like this kit might sort you out,but be sure to accurately identify and measure your engine first. Find out what parts you need and what sizes are available and have your engine parts ground/bored to suit.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dodge-383-Ply ... 0989302901

Thanks Latil, but that's a bit OTT for this rebuild as I do not need pistons, camshaft, timing gear, lifters or oil pump as most of these (all??) have done only about 300 mile since the engine was re-built by some jerk who did not bother to clean it properly after the re-bore

I need to make sure I do a good cleaning job................

Maybe they would do a part kit though.

[latil]

Seller is one of several on US ebay,you may find these parts here without the ebay/postage hassle. This seller seems to have lots of other items for sale,so at a guess he will sell the parts separately.

[Dave999]

MB Main bearings

CR conrod

dunno what CS is i'd need to register to see photos but there will be cam

in the mix as well


need to ID the year of your engine i think

i have no idea if the small flange or the big flange is correct

but king seem to differnentiate

look for chrysler 1960 383 for the RB engine
and Chrylser 1962 383 for the B engine

Dave

[JerryL]

MB Main bearings

CR conrod

dunno what CS is i'd need to register to see photos but there will be cam

in the mix as well


need to ID the year of your engine i think

i have no idea if the small flange or the big flange is correct

but king seem to differnentiate

look for chrysler 1960 383 for the RB engine
and Chrylser 1962 383 for the B engine

Dave

Engine year is most likely 1959 as the car was first registered in UK Feb '60. I have no idea how long it took the French to build 'em though, so it may even be a 1958 build engine. Unfortunately the block ID stampings are illegible. The engine number on the RHS cylinder head (looking under the bonnet (hood )) is TY7 31203 which is supposed to be it's original.
I've been using Chrysler 1959/60 model Saratoga to ID the engine components as this and the Windsor seem to have been the only models using the 383 motor.

On the centre main bearing thrust flange, I had the Engineers check this, this morning, and the rebate in the block/cap is about 3.7" which leaves space for the larger flange, so that is what I will go for.

PS. I think I now have a good handle on these bearing numbers having looked at the catalogue for some time

Thanks for the help David. Cheers

[Dave999]

cool

excellent

looks like progress

In my opinion that larger flange if its a 4 speed makes sense

they take all the grief from the clutch actuation, epecially if the onwer starts in gear with the clutch pressed flat to the floor.

Dave

[JerryL]

cool

excellent

looks like progress

In my opinion that larger flange if its a 4 speed makes sense

they take all the grief from the clutch actuation, epecially if the onwer starts in gear with the clutch pressed flat to the floor.

Dave

No, it's got a 3 speed Torqueflite A-727 auto box.

Next question........

Is it necessary to replace big-end / main / or head bolts?

[Dave-R]

Next question........

Is it necessary to replace big-end / main / or head bolts?

On a race car yes. On a street car that will not see high rpms probably not unless they are obviously damaged in some way.

[Dave999]

ah yes forgot about that OOps


em no you don't have to. they are not use once and throw away items in this case. and chrylser made sure the fasteners used were good

but i'd do at least the rod bolts...just makes sense arp wavelock and get the rod resized with them done up to ARP spec

if the mains and head bolts are clean and you clean out the threads into the block and you lube them under the head as they go on

i'd use em ....check they are all the same length.....i.e all longs all mediums and all shorts are as long or short as their friends

unless of course you are building for performance....

[JerryL]

Thanks Dave's.

No, this is a street car not a ROD!!

so I will likely reuse the old bolting. Will think about the rod bolts though.

I'm reading my rebuild book too, so should have all necessary info now but if I think of anything else, I will be back. Suspect I won't get my engine back for another week or more, then I'm off on me holliers so it will be a while before I can report on further progress. Will get my parts ordered first.

Cheers all

[terryr]

frosts in Wellingborough hold most of what you need in stock,sorry I missed you yesterday as I was at the flicks with my lad ,to avoid doing housework

[JerryL]

frosts in Wellingborough hold most of what you need in stock,sorry I missed you yesterday as I was at the flicks with my lad ,to avoid doing housework

I will look see what Frosts can do, Ta.

[Steve]

Great thread!!

[JerryL]

Is this normal for the underside of the inlet manifold?..........





............. or another indication of a past major engine trauma

That is pretty heavy brazing.

[Charger]

crikey, something's gone on there, this is the underside of mine ...

[Charger]

looks like someone's attempted to repair a hole in the exhaust cross-over or a strange way to block it off ... ??