some engine progress
Moderator: Moderators
next year!!!
needs to be done for the HRDs
Its using up my new Diff time
was supposed to have complete engine 4 speed and suregrip package for HRDs
can't be helped
shoulda bit the bullet and lugged built motor to engin dyno and had run in done there
Dave
needs to be done for the HRDs
Its using up my new Diff time
was supposed to have complete engine 4 speed and suregrip package for HRDs
can't be helped
shoulda bit the bullet and lugged built motor to engin dyno and had run in done there
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
- Johnny Dart
- Posts: 852
- Joined: Tue Dec 24, 13 12:46 pm
- Location: East Sussex
nothing yet
need to get onto it
waiting for the leak down tester to arrive, should be today but first friday of the month is beer drinking friday
and due to some clacky noises have dismantled half the rockers
the 4 i didn't rebuild last time feel horrible....they didn't whan swapped off a motor with standard springs onto this one 3 weeks ago but they do now
amazing what a bit of paranoia about everything triggers
so they will get new trunnions and needle bearings. hardend steel trunninions shouldn't show marking from needle rollers and these 4 do....they have lifetime warranty but as i was not the orginal purchaser can't leverage that
the rest that i rebuilt in 2006/7 got a clean up and were put back together. they seem fine
yellaterra in oz good company to deal with answer all emails within 12 hours...just good you know, actively interested in how well their product is doing how old it is whats it been exposed to, used for etc whats failed etc (nout that wasn't cuased by the previous owner rebuilding them with all the trunnions backwards causing side forces due to bad fitting that destroyed some of the bearings hence need for previous re build, these 4 seem ok then)
quite expensive for a fat end rebuild kit so am just doing the 4 that need it, if i had to do the roller tips as well it would be more
off on my hols soon so i'm thinking leave the lot till i come back. nobody can nick it in this dismantled state
Dave
need to get onto it
waiting for the leak down tester to arrive, should be today but first friday of the month is beer drinking friday
and due to some clacky noises have dismantled half the rockers
the 4 i didn't rebuild last time feel horrible....they didn't whan swapped off a motor with standard springs onto this one 3 weeks ago but they do now
amazing what a bit of paranoia about everything triggers
so they will get new trunnions and needle bearings. hardend steel trunninions shouldn't show marking from needle rollers and these 4 do....they have lifetime warranty but as i was not the orginal purchaser can't leverage that
the rest that i rebuilt in 2006/7 got a clean up and were put back together. they seem fine
yellaterra in oz good company to deal with answer all emails within 12 hours...just good you know, actively interested in how well their product is doing how old it is whats it been exposed to, used for etc whats failed etc (nout that wasn't cuased by the previous owner rebuilding them with all the trunnions backwards causing side forces due to bad fitting that destroyed some of the bearings hence need for previous re build, these 4 seem ok then)
quite expensive for a fat end rebuild kit so am just doing the 4 that need it, if i had to do the roller tips as well it would be more
off on my hols soon so i'm thinking leave the lot till i come back. nobody can nick it in this dismantled state

Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
sorry to hear about your engine woes
iv'e just been playing with a Lynx Jaguar XKSS that had the 152 Weber carbs on. it had been set up very rich otherwise it would spit and hold back, it had large idle jets (65F8). it would then it would knock out spark plugs when driven in trafic.
i ended up drilling extra progression holes which meant i could go down on the idle jetting (to 55F8) and fit smaller pump jets (from 45 to 35). there was quite a bit of throttle movement before the butterfly got to the first progression hole so i drilled a hole slightly larger than the first one closer to the butterfly position at rest.
worked a treat and transformed the way it now drives. (it was a bit of a gamble as there is no going back once drilled but nothing else worked)

iv'e just been playing with a Lynx Jaguar XKSS that had the 152 Weber carbs on. it had been set up very rich otherwise it would spit and hold back, it had large idle jets (65F8). it would then it would knock out spark plugs when driven in trafic.
i ended up drilling extra progression holes which meant i could go down on the idle jetting (to 55F8) and fit smaller pump jets (from 45 to 35). there was quite a bit of throttle movement before the butterfly got to the first progression hole so i drilled a hole slightly larger than the first one closer to the butterfly position at rest.

worked a treat and transformed the way it now drives. (it was a bit of a gamble as there is no going back once drilled but nothing else worked)
we'll have to see on the weber front
as i appear to have very big leak on 2 and 3
am thinking rings
no hissing in the inlet
lots in the crank case
given that i was careful during install
i didn't hear any knocking
i'm guessing the ring gaps were too small.....
and perhaps hotter than the guage inidated (looked fine, but slight glow to headers) when i ran in the cam.
damn and blast it
as they say
as i appear to have very big leak on 2 and 3
am thinking rings
no hissing in the inlet
lots in the crank case
given that i was careful during install
i didn't hear any knocking
i'm guessing the ring gaps were too small.....
and perhaps hotter than the guage inidated (looked fine, but slight glow to headers) when i ran in the cam.
damn and blast it
as they say
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
OK completed my leak down testing
Cylinder 1 2 and 3 leaking 45-50% (mid to bottom of yellow moderate)
Cylinder 4 ,5, 6 30 % leaking bottom of the Green Good)
all cylinders if re tested can show leakage up to 60% which is tending to wards the Red %^&*^$ section
so the more compressed air you push through the worse it gets.
erm
broken rings
bore wash and very poor ring seal?
the wrong piston rings...summit got it wrong once (they just didn't fit) their tech guy suggested another set. these fit the piston but are narrower between outer and inner dimater of the ring...
i'll pull it out
Cylinder 1 2 and 3 leaking 45-50% (mid to bottom of yellow moderate)
Cylinder 4 ,5, 6 30 % leaking bottom of the Green Good)
all cylinders if re tested can show leakage up to 60% which is tending to wards the Red %^&*^$ section
so the more compressed air you push through the worse it gets.
erm
broken rings
bore wash and very poor ring seal?
the wrong piston rings...summit got it wrong once (they just didn't fit) their tech guy suggested another set. these fit the piston but are narrower between outer and inner dimater of the ring...
i'll pull it out
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
- Johnny Dart
- Posts: 852
- Joined: Tue Dec 24, 13 12:46 pm
- Location: East Sussex
Dave,
you should be able to hear where the air is leaking, it will give you a good idea what's up before you strip it.
Past the rings/ holed piston ect- heard through oil filler/dipstick tube
past the valves- heard carb or exhaust pipe
head gasket or other breach of the waterway- heard through the rad cap
you should be able to hear where the air is leaking, it will give you a good idea what's up before you strip it.
Past the rings/ holed piston ect- heard through oil filler/dipstick tube
past the valves- heard carb or exhaust pipe
head gasket or other breach of the waterway- heard through the rad cap
Tell him ......Righty Tighty.....Lefty LooseyDave wrote:I blame the bloke who can't tighten nuts and bolts myself.

MOPAR - Move Over Power Arriving Rapidly
Blessed is he who, in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of the darkness, for he is truly his brother's keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy My brothers. And you will know I am the Lord when I lay My Mopar upon you
Blessed is he who, in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of the darkness, for he is truly his brother's keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy My brothers. And you will know I am the Lord when I lay My Mopar upon you
You sure you doing that right Dave? Those are very bad numbers. Over 10 - 15% and id be having the engine out.Dave999 wrote:OK completed my leak down testing
Cylinder 1 2 and 3 leaking 45-50% (mid to bottom of yellow moderate)
Cylinder 4 ,5, 6 30 % leaking bottom of the Green Good)
all cylinders if re tested can show leakage up to 60% which is tending to wards the Red %^&*^$ section
so the more compressed air you push through the worse it gets.
erm
broken rings
bore wash and very poor ring seal?
the wrong piston rings...summit got it wrong once (they just didn't fit) their tech guy suggested another set. these fit the piston but are narrower between outer and inner dimater of the ring...
i'll pull it out
Got to ask, but you have set the gauge to read zero and only JUST zero when not connected to anything? Not got the pressure to high?
guage is cheap one 45 quid
guage is zero on both when not connected
guage instructions say
you should see the flow guage reach "set" area at somewhere between 15 and 20 PSI on pressure guage
and it does
so i use the regulator to set the flow gauge to the SET area
check that i have not gone over 20 on the pressure gauge in doing so
lock off the regulator on the guage set
have the compressor set anywhere between 45 -80 as per intructions
wind cylinder over to the top
it has no rockers on it at the mo.
it has no side cover on at the mo
so valves are shut regardless
wind in the adaptor hand tight against lightly oiled rubber seal
plug in the gauge
flow guage falls quickly and settles out at a poor reading
no hiss in the inlet
no hiss at the exhaust
noise from crank case
wet finger near any vent at the open side of the engine gets cold
there is air flow through crank case.
i specified pistons and asked summit to look up rings in catalogue and supply
they supplied the wrong ones
i phoned, played hell and they sent me a set that fitted that they assured me were correct
thus
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... make/dodge
with these in the correct 20 thou over size
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... /overview/
bore was checked by engineer for taper
he then sized by bore an hone out as per sealedpower/speedpro spec for low expansion coated piston. and labelled up the box in reagrds to piston position
rings were gapped based on 4 inch bore becasue my pistons have had the top edge profiled the top ring is nearer to the Fire than normal it will get a little hotter then normal
its a 3.93 inch bore
18 thou top 20 thou next
used a spring steel band compressor
oiled and tightend, adjusted so it didn't scroll out..sqaure in thne top of the bore taper
mallet hanle to pop em in..
ive done something wrong in my rush for the Nats but until i pull it out i won't know what...
maybe the piston pins have come out and scored the bores.
rod ends were sized for the pins and the pins pressed in by the machine shop
Mmm
Dave
guage is zero on both when not connected
guage instructions say
you should see the flow guage reach "set" area at somewhere between 15 and 20 PSI on pressure guage
and it does
so i use the regulator to set the flow gauge to the SET area
check that i have not gone over 20 on the pressure gauge in doing so
lock off the regulator on the guage set
have the compressor set anywhere between 45 -80 as per intructions
wind cylinder over to the top
it has no rockers on it at the mo.
it has no side cover on at the mo
so valves are shut regardless
wind in the adaptor hand tight against lightly oiled rubber seal
plug in the gauge
flow guage falls quickly and settles out at a poor reading
no hiss in the inlet
no hiss at the exhaust
noise from crank case
wet finger near any vent at the open side of the engine gets cold
there is air flow through crank case.
i specified pistons and asked summit to look up rings in catalogue and supply
they supplied the wrong ones
i phoned, played hell and they sent me a set that fitted that they assured me were correct
thus
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... make/dodge
with these in the correct 20 thou over size
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... /overview/
bore was checked by engineer for taper
he then sized by bore an hone out as per sealedpower/speedpro spec for low expansion coated piston. and labelled up the box in reagrds to piston position
rings were gapped based on 4 inch bore becasue my pistons have had the top edge profiled the top ring is nearer to the Fire than normal it will get a little hotter then normal
its a 3.93 inch bore
18 thou top 20 thou next
used a spring steel band compressor
oiled and tightend, adjusted so it didn't scroll out..sqaure in thne top of the bore taper
mallet hanle to pop em in..
ive done something wrong in my rush for the Nats but until i pull it out i won't know what...
maybe the piston pins have come out and scored the bores.
rod ends were sized for the pins and the pins pressed in by the machine shop
Mmm
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying